3rd model dragoon Cylinder gap???

S

SAA GunSlinger

New member
Hello I recently purchased a new in box Uberti 3rd model dragoon. Today I finally got some time to go try it out. After I was done firing it I noticed that the cylinder would move back and fourth ever so slightly and that there was a tiny little gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder. Ive heard in the pass that a cylinder gap could be a big problem but I thought that only occurred after lots of use and lots of heavy charges but this gun is brand new. My other black powders such as my walkers, there tight as can be no movement on the cylinder but my dragoon cylinder can move back and fourth very slightly. The gun can go up to 50 grains of powder but I was only using 35 grains of FFFG american pioneer powder and maybe fired 30 rounds through it. Is my gun still safe to shoot and is there anything I should be concerned about? Also my loading lever keeps falling everytime I shoot, how do I fix that as well?
 
Your wedge is loosening up because it's taking the brunt of the recoil. You can drive it in a little deeper but if you go too far you will bind the cylinder against the forcing cone. Uberti's all have short arbors that need correcting. You can shim it from inside the arbor hole or attach a shim to the end of the arbor itself.
As for the loading latch it's a design flaw that was fixed with the last ones. They went with a latch like on the 51 navy. You might be able to file the catch deeper but I don't know if it will work or not. Mine drops every other round with 40 grains and every round with 50.
 
Ok, Gunslinger, Hawg,
Lay the loading lever on slightly open vice jaws (if you have a vice). Carefully, drift pin out (reason for the "slightly open" part! Lol) and remove the latch and spring (shouldn't have to tell ya but, it's under tension). Cut a plug of appropriate size stock that the spring can use as a stop. I'd use steel but brass is fine too. Install plug and check the tension before reinstalling pin.
If there is contact with the latch and plug, you'll need to trim the tail on the latch as needed.

Sources of stock- screws, nails etc. Too big? Turn them down with them chucked up in a drill motor in a vice. Use a file to remove material. Bench belt sander is easier.

OR !! Even better!!!, you know that box of random springs most folks have had around the house forever? See if one of those (with rather stout tension) will slip in the lever. If you don't have one that is a suitable replacement, a shorter piece of one can act as a plug (as above) This will give you a more "progressive" type spring setup. The "progressive" setup is what I use in the shop (cause it's fancy!!! Lol!!!!).
Problem solved . . .

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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I might do that but it's already hard enough to get unlatched when your hands are sweaty or luby as the case may be.
 
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