38cal Wheelguns

Target Smiths, blued....K 22, K 32, K 38....tune up bout every 50,000 rounds.
First run model 36, bout 75,000 rounds before selling it. No work needed.

Stainless smiths...only owned two, neither lasted. 686 shot out at a little under 30,000 rounds. 696 didn't make a thousand.

Never owned a .38 stainless.....probably won't either.

Sam
 
There is no reason to buy a ".38 Spcl" only gun unless you need a lightweight snub for concealed carry. If you are getting an all steel gun, just buy the .357 version and you will get a much tougher gun that weighs about the same. I like the SW model 66 and 686. I've got about 15k rounds through my 686 with zero repairs.
 
There is no reason to buy a ".38 Spcl" only gun unless you need a lightweight snub for concealed carry.
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If you are not planning of shooting magnums (and I can think several good reasons not), I can think of several good reasons for buying a .38 Special only revolver.
 
What is the point of buying a .357 magnum if you are only shooting .38s?

If you are only shooting .38's then its not really a magnum anymore is it?


Many would do better with a trim .38 like the S&W M10 revolver (tradional tapered barrel) than to carry a bulky S&W 686.
 
I estimated (based upon pounds of powder used) that I have probably put at the very least 25,000 rnds of 38 specials down my diamondback (made in 66 I found our recently). So far it has had the hand that stops the cylinder in the correct position break and that is all.

I am thinking about buying another one in blue (mine is nickle) because I like the smoothness over modern revolvers.
 
Never seen a ruger out of time. Smiths yes but usually from abuse not use. Buy a 357 and reload. You can shoot a lot more for your money. Reloading can be used usefully on that time spent watching TV. You can load 357 rounds somewhere below max factory and somewhere above +P 38 that is comfortable but very effective. By the way factory 357 is much lower in pressure than original.
 
gunner357

Not ALL factories...............hahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

PS did I mention -- screw SAAMI?


I bend guns, therefore I am.
 
Reloading while watchin the telly can be hazardous to your health.
Reloading should be done without distractions.

Sam
 
The .38 Special is still special.

Some revolvers are just too small for controlling the snap of .357 magum loads. Thus people tend to load only .38 Special loads.
My point is that its not really a magnum revolver when the piece will only stoked with .38 loads.

If you want a magnum, get a large revolver. But if you need a medium to small revolver, get a .38 Special.

The Smith & Wesson M10 and the Colt Official Police are great service revolvers. The .38 Special cartridge will get the job done. In fact it is the best choice for many shooters as it is so easy to control and shoot well.
 
SALT: you are right, if you can find an old Model 10 (tapered barrel) for .38 spcl it does give you a reason to go ".38 only". I've got one of those and use it for my protection gun. My statement about not buying a ".38 only" pertains to guns currently offered. Check out SW's entire line of wheelguns: the maximum weight you save by going .38 only in comparably sized guns is maybe one or two ounces until you get down to the alloy snubbies... some are actually the same weight and cost. Hence, my recommendation to get the .357 unless you are getting a lightweight (small) gun for concealment.

"What is the point of buying a .357 magnum if you are only shooting .38s?

If you are only shooting .38's then its not really a magnum anymore is it? "

Yes, it's still magnum and it has a heavier barrel and frame which reduces the chances of the gun failing. If the price is almost the same (and weight) it makes sense to get the magnum and be able to shoot any load you want.
 
Yes, it's still magnum and it has a heavier barrel and frame which reduces the chances of the gun failing. If the price is almost the same (and weight) it makes sense to get the magnum and be able to shoot any load you want.
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1. A K-frame is still K-frame (M10/13/64/66). A heavy barrel is a heavy barrel. You definitely lose in the weight arena when you move up to a L-frame (weighs more than a N-frame for the same barrel length).

2. You will probably get better accuracy from a .38 out .38 cylinders. (Though this is variable--some .357s give you good accuracy with .38s some do not.

3. A .38 shooting .38s will be easier to clean (and keep clean) than a .357 shooting .38s.

4. You can (will) get cylinder erosion shooting .38s in .357s. It may take a lot of shooting (and hot .38s make it worse), but it will happen.

If you only plan on shooting .38s, there is absolutely no benefit to buying a .357 and several drawbacks.
 
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