.38 SPL ammunition availability

S

SPEMack618

New member
Do any big, or small for that matter, reputable manufactures make a .38 Special LSWCHP in a non +P loading?

I've search Midway to no avail, the closest I came to were either UMC jacketed hollow points or "remanufactured" ammunition.
 
That is a good question

I cannot think of any other than Buffalo Bore.
I have been making my own for so long I have fallen out of the loop.
 
Why do you want a low velocity hollowpoint?

Contrary to Internet Timidity, enough +P for familiarization and sight check will not hurt any .38 Special of recent enough manufacture that I would be carrying it for self defense. And if it's not for self defense, I don't need hollowpoints.
 
Mr. Watson,

I want a low velocity hollow point because from what I've read, that is the best bullet type for the .38 Spl for self defense.

I'm hesitant to load +p loading into my Model 10 and it is the one hand gun I have right now that my girlfriend feels comfortable shooting at present aside from the Mk II 22/45.

She recently had surgery on both of her wrists (old tennis injury) and can't/doesn't want to shoot her Glock 26.
 
Your model 10 should be perfectly fine with +P ammo. As for your girlfriend being able to shoot it, I suggest letting her try a few and see.

Personally, I can see only minimal difference in recoil between +P and standard pressure loads when shooting in my Model 10. But that's just me.
 
While I understand your position and reasoning I would not choose that bullet simply because at low velocities it is most like not going to expand. It requires some speed to open up. If you really need to keep the velocity down look at a good hard cast lead SWC or flat point bullet. The best hollow point bullet that offers reliable expansion at slower velocity is the Speer Gold Dot. I have no idea what kind of pressures (or recoil) it is offered in with factory loads but it comes in a couple of different weights and WILL expand at 800 fps. I have tested them and they do exactly what Speer claims. There is no longer any need to push a bullet to get expansion anymore. Check Speer's website. I hope her wrists heal up well and quickly and that she doesn't turn into a howler monkey. That's funny.
 
I would shoot factory velocity Keith style 150-168 gr semi-wadcutters. I have the mould for the 168 gr. There is no need of hollow points in a lower velocity .38 load. The shape of the bullet is more important than the hollow point.

Doug
 
I want a low velocity hollow point because from what I've read, that is the best bullet type for the .38 Spl for self defense.
Click to expand...

I fear you have read wrong.
A common brand standard pressure load may not develop enough velocity to expand a hollowpoint bullet, especially if jacketed.

If you have a real deal Model 10 made since 1957, it is "rated" for use with +P ammunition. If it is a "pre model 10" made before cylinders were heat treated in the 1920s, then you might reasonably be cautious about what you put in it.

Buffalo Bore may be different. They list a gas checked 158 gr hollowpoint at 850 fps from a 2" or 1000 fps from a 4" barrel at standard chamber pressure.
This is hotter than most name brand +P.
That is good in terms of terminal ballistics, it will hit hard and open the soft lead hollowpoint.

HOWEVER, it is not going to kick any less than any other load of the same velocity just because it is not at +P pressure, which is only 10% over standard. This might well make them uncomfortable for your girlfriend. For her, I suggest name brand 158 gr lead hollowpoint. If that is unmanageable you will probably have to drop down to midrange wadcutters, a 148 at 750 fps.
 
Thanks for all the great advice above. Looking at various hollow points now and mid range wad cutters.

And Drail, while she's not quite a Glock howler monkey, she is a big fan of stryker fired DAO handguns....I don't know where I went wrong.

Okay, so maybe you guys can help me with this my Model 10 is a C 420***, is that post '57?
 
It's not a Model 10 unless actually marked Model 10.

I think your C gun is out of the late 1940s or early 1950s but I don't have the book so I won't be tempted to do free research.

I would not worry about shooting a post-war gun with enough +P for familarization and POI check but I would not make it a regular thing.
 
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