38 Special +P

P

PolarFBear

New member
A dilemma. I have several hundred cases of Speer 38 Special +P, even some +P+. What should I do with them; load to full +P levels or stay at standard 38 Special. All my 38's except for a tiny little Rossi are +P capable. I want to use 158 gr LRN, powder coated, with either W231 or HP38 powders. Unless there is a better suggestion. Yes I have lots of load manuals to consult: and, have read them. Just pondering my next relaods. I have a good load I use for regular 38's and my stock is sufficient --- for now.
 
My experience is there is no difference between the .38 SPL +p and regular other than the headstamp marking signifying what the original loading was.
 
I have several hundred cases of Speer 38 Special +P, even some +P+.
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when I first read this I was thinking cases as in 10×50 round boxes and saw $$$$$$ and what a good investment that was :)
 
I like separating my brass by headstamp and loading each with a different load. For 38spl, I'd load wadcutters for one headstamp and a different load for my nephew's revolver. For nickel casings I load Speer 135GDs for his Ruger LCR.. Maybe you can do that.
 
While doing a lot of PPC competition, I sorted 38 brass by headstamp, and did quite a little experimenting. Only thing that really jumped out, was that Fed. brass gave me really low standard deviations. Probably didn't add a point to my scores, but I shot all Fed wadcutter loaded brass for a long time.
 
zplinker. Since I stated hand loading I have always separated by head stamp. Not REALLY necessary; except to me. I try to keep all my brass in an "original" box. Helps me sort identify and DISCARD AMERC junk.
 
I like to weigh my brass too. Using an inexpensive $10 electronic scale, I can separate casings of the same head stamp quick. I do this for pistol brass when I'm making test loads. From my experience, and from just once-fired range brass I've picked over the course of years, Federal brass is the most consistent between Win, Rem, and Fed. Win makes this big bell curve while Remington brass might have two bell curves. I haven't weighed Speer casings but since Polar Bear's comment and since I have a lot of original Speer boxes, I'll weigh the brass and put the best in the boxes.
 
The +P and +P+ on head stamps is there so the guys in the factory don't mix 'em. The case is exactly the same otherwise.
Powder coated is irrelevant. It's just paint.
"...Fed. brass gave me..." The brass does nothing for or against anything load related. Federal brass though is known for being softer than other brands. Only means it doesn't last as long.
 
"Federal brass though is known for being softer than other brands. Only means it doesn't last as long."

I am pretty sure that softer will last longer. Softer means less cold work and/or more annealed. Cases typically last until they split. Splitting is from too much cold work.

The above is true unless you are loading so hot as to stretch primer pockets. Something I tend to avoid.

For the OP, I like the idea of using +P brass for warmer loads. Having a small quantity of +P handloads with a proper headstamp is a good thing.
 
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