.38 Special match target loads

S

Shooter # 2

Inactive
38 Special reloads for Match shooting

Hay Guy's are any of you reloading a 38 special for match shooting that has a pet load for a S&W 686 with a 6" barrel, that you would like to share.

I'm loading a Hornady 148 Gr. HBWC, with 3.1 Gr. Bullseye, Win Primer,
At 25yds. they shoot OK. But not the best I've shot.
The question is: The bullets are hitting the target sideways...
Can any of you out there help me to correct this.
I'm trying to load for accuracy. Thanks
 
I used to hand load 148 gr BBWC with 3 gr Bulleyse and CCI small pistol primers. Made nice clean holes. Never had one go sideways. Came out of a 4" Colt Diamondback.
;)
 
'Keyhole'Boy

In this order:

Less crimp, more crimp, taper crimp, no crimp.

Less powder, more powder, W231 powder.

Federal primer, CCI primer, magnum primer.

Different bullet (Penn Bullets, Meister Bullets); the Hornady bullet is swaged.
 
The classic target load for .38spec is 2.7gr of Bullseeye. Another goodie is 2.5gr of 700X which I have used for 30 years. While I have not used it yet, I would not hesitate to use 231. Check for lead build-up in the forcing cone to stop tumbling. Quantrill
 
To be key holeing at twenty five yards something is badly wrong somewhere, and I doubt has anything to do with your load data. Like was already said, have your gun checked out.
 
Like kncn said sounds like keyholing to me, best to have the bore slugged, that is if the gun hasn't been shot by you before with a different load. Wish you luck with it. Might be worn down.
 
38 Special reloads,

A Thanks goes out to all of you guys.
With your help I think I have found my problem. The barrel is leaded. Where
the bullet first enters the barrel for about 3/8 to 1/2",
Why does a WC lead more than say, a SWC bullets?
Does anyone know the Best and Easiest way to remove the lead from a pistol
barrel?
Quantrill, Thanks for your pet load. I Think you have something, with your
2.7 or 2.8 Gr. of Bullseye. I will give it a try as soon as I get the lead out.
(of the barrel,) The reason for the 3.1 Gr. was that's what I had my powder dispenser set on at the time. I had been loading some 38 TM's....
Thanks again guys. Keep your powder dry.

Shooter #2
 
Where you see the lead at the beginning end of the barrel is called the "forcing cone" (because that is where the bullet is forced into the lands and grooves of the barrel). To remove the lead from that area of the barrel, you will need a "lewis lead remover". The company is out of buisness but sold the business to Brownells I believe. Hoppes also has a replica of the "remover" that is available in most gun stores and catalogues. As far as I can see, it is just as good as the original. A few twists and you will be free of the lead. The very first time I ever qualified with a revolver many years ago, the exact same thing happened to the shooter next to me. I never forgot it. Good Luck!! Quantrill
 
Get a Lewis Lead Remover. It scrapes the lead out with a brass screen patch; harmless to the barrel. Or wrap some copper Chore Boy scrubber around a brush.

Use less powder. 2.7 gr Bull is a gracious plenty for a full wadcutter.
 
First off, use the Lewis lead remover. Secondly load a 138gr BN wadcutter driven by 4.1gr of WST - perfect out to 50 yards. I've used this load for years and have found none better. Of course it is taper-crimped as well and set in the case so that the button protrudes past the case rim.
 
Another cheap way to remove lead is using copper gauze.

Grocery stores have copper gauze scouring pads in the cleaning supplies dept.

Get some for around a dollar, cut it into squares about the size of a cleaning patch. Wrap around a worn out bore bursh and watch the lead come out.

Cheap and effective

FWIW

Chuck
 
I've had good luck using 158 grain SWC cast bullets and 3.7 grains Bullseye.

15_6l.jpg


My model 15 and 14 love it.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
Reduce your powder. With the amount of powder you were using you were blowing out the base on the swaged HBWC. It doesn't take much to destroy that rim.
 
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