.38 Special Loads

M

marsbars

New member
I just got myself a used S&W model 10-6 and was interested in some sugestions for a self defense load. I am not sure if it is able to shoot +P loads yet as I am waiting for a reply from S&W. I am new to revolvers as this is my first. :D
But just after getting to know its operation I am now hooked. I will get to shoot it at the range this weekend. I am already asking myself why didn't I get one earlier.
Thanks for any info on brands, and weights.
 
If it's a newer Model 10, it is +p rated. The older ones will not. Some say it is safe to feed the older ones +p for occasional defense, but not a steady diet. I'd use standard pressure if I wasn't sure. Federal Hydroshok is a good place to start. :)
 
I dont know what happened to rest of this thread it was very informative, but if it is a heavy barrel model 10, I would say go ahead and fire +P. It can withstand AT LEAST a limited diet of +P. Model 10's with the heavy barrels are super strong for 38's.
 
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Well I got a chance to fire the little piece and I am impressed. It worked wonderfully. I didn't run any +P but I did shoot a few Hydra Shocks through it and it functioned fine. I did notice that the ejector rod would loosen up a little and the cylinder would bind when I wanted to eject the spent brass. Is there a way to tighten it up enough to stay put or is something like loctite warrented?
 
Don't worry about hurting an ole' Model 10......I've had mine since the mid 80's. I had carried one for over ten years as both a Security Officer and as an Armored Car driver and qualify every year still to maintain my licenses, averaging about 400-500 rnds a year to this day, mostly 158 grn lead SWC but have used 158 grn lead SWC +P for the last couple of years......still shoots 1-2 inch groups depending on how I feel that day ...have yet to have anything repaired, tightened ,or fixed .............I see that your extractor rod is unscrewing, blue loctite is good....unscrew the rod, clean the threads with gun scrubber, apply loctite on rod threads.....next step: DO NOT USE PLIERS :eek: !! hand tighten the rod into place then take and place the rod into a vise and using two pieces of wood on either side of the rod for protection, tighten the vice onto the rod. Take Two empty 38 cases and place them into the cylinder opposite one another. You do this so as to not screw up your ejector star when you turn the cylinder to tighten up on the rod. Once that is done leave overnight to set and you should not have any further problems. You can also order a Extractor Rod Tool from Brownell's that is used specificly for the removal and tightening of extractor rods if you don't have a mounted vise.

Pet loads for Self Defence: 158 grn +P Lead Hollow point, read good success rate by RCMP in Canada. If recoil is an issue CCI Gold dot 125 grn HP or Federal Hydra-Shok 129 grn HP.

Concealed Carry Holsters and Accessories I recommend
A good holster would be the "Master", see Dillion


If you prefer one with a thumb break see Safariland

Spare ammo carrier I have speedloader pouches by Desantis
, see A35 and A08 under concealment belt accessories.

Speedloaders, I use HKS (10-A )

Lastly, a good belt made for concealed carry, the worst thing you can do is spend money on good holsters and accessories only to have it flop aroung on a cheap belt thats only good for holding up your pants :barf:

I highly recomend Indiana Arms for ordering any of the above mentioned items except Dillion and Desantis, which they don't carry.


For casual carry in the form of a "fanny Pack". I've found that Coronado Leather makes the 2 best, Coronado
Coronado 2

I have used or am still using every item above and am very happy with the items.....Don't get discouraged from your friends or anyone snickering at you at the range just because you have a Revolver and they have the latest wonder semi-auto. I had a person one time said that he was faster then me because he had the latest wonder semi-auto and didn't have to reload because he had 15 rounds, well.... 12 rnds later with 1 speedload I was not only quicker than him but more accurate while he hadn't even finished his 15 round mag, I'm not telling this to blow my own horn but just to show that you don't have to have the latest to be good......Hope this helps, need anymore help just Email me :)
 
How much?

I just picked up a .38 Smith & Wesson model 10-8 heavy barrel, blued. I paid $250.00. I used to carry one working for an Armored car company that was stainless steel and had to get one for my personal collection. So how much did you pay for yours? I just want to know if I got a good deal or not.:confused:
 
To tighten up the extractor rod...

on a Smith revolver, chuck it up in a hand drill.

DO NOT TURN ON THE HAND DRILL. You are only using the chuck as a handle.

Tighten it one-twelveth turn past where it stops of it's own accord. By hand, of course.
 
I got mine at a pawn shop for $210. It only cost me $45 as I traded a little 32 Tomcat that I didn't really shoot or care to shoot. So I got a good deal as he gave me more for it in trade than I paid for it a year ago at a pawn shop in seattle.
Smith sent me an email telling me that the gun was made in 87 and that it was perfectly okay to shoot +P ammo.
I was looking at the web sites of a few ammo manufacturers and the total gain in velocity and energy don't seem that signifigant. Is it really worth the extra cost of +p. I normaly carry a 40 s&w for my daily carry. The 38 is for fun and if the wife needs it if she is home alone.
 
Winchester USA has just put out a 125 gr JHP +p round in 38 Special. I tried some out in my 4 inch Model 10 and was very impressed. My local Walmart carries it for $10.47 a box, 50 rounds.
 
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