.36 loads?

Z

ZVP

New member
I just found and bought some .380 pure Lead balls for my Uberti London.
I had read that using these slightly larger balls gives a better Gas seal and helps the ball "bite" the rifling better so I figured I'd give em a try.
Do any of you shoot these .380 balls and if you do, did you have to reduce your Powder Charges?
I currently charge the Londin with 22 grains (by volume) of Goex or the equivilent in Pyrodex. Do I need to reduce the Powder charge to keep pressures down?
The London is all Steel and I have never loaded it more than a .25 gr load of Pyrodex.
I once tried some 777 but reduced the load (with a .375 ball) by 15%. The load was VERY fast and accurate. I like the accuracy 777 gives but I worry about pressures, so I really do not use it regularly in any revolver.
I'm really starting to like the .36 caliber! It's a very accurate caliber with plenty of velocity and hardly any recoil at all! I can see why it was such a popular caliber
Anyone have any tips about shooting the .36 in a '51 Navy revolver?
Thanks,
ZVP
 
No need to change anything. The only difference you're going to notice is the .380 balls will be a little harder to load.
 
I shoot 0.375 balls but would like to shoot 0.380 balls. Where do you get them from?

My 1851 has chamber diameters of 0.374 so I'm cuttin' it a bit too close in my opinion with 0.375 balls.

Your model has a steel frame so there isn'y any reason to be concerned with any load. Even a max load with 777 should be fine. As far as ball contact with the rifling that has more to do with your chamber diameter. If your chamber diameters are 0.374, like mine, then any ball larger than that will get shaved down to 0.374. You will not have more contact with the lands/grooves with a larger ball as the chamber diameter is the limiting factor. You will have more surface tension with the walls of the chambers though. This is good because it makes for a better seal and reduces the chance of ball creep.
 
Thanks guys!
ClemBert,
That's right! I forgot about the ball being shaved as you press it into the chambers. Whatever the chamber is, is what your ball size will be since they don't tumble in the barrel.
Sorry about those .380 balls but the guy I got em from is out of business. I wish I'd have bought more than I did from him! I juwst bought enough to try them.I know I have one "loose" chamber in my Uberti .36. If I have any grease or lube on the rammer, it will pull the ball as tou put it back into battery. I try and watch for that chamber when I wish to load just 5 chambers and I leave it as the "empty"
I have had to unload a improperly loaded .44 (actually skipped with no powder) and I was suprised at how little pull was needed to extract the ball! I had expected more friction. I can see how some balls creep forward under heavy recoil!
I am so glad to have found a Forum where people try and answer your questions and try to help you learn. It seems on the CAS B/P forum if tou ask a question, they'd rather make "sport" of you than answer it.
Thanks guys for your gentlamanly attitudes and answers!
ZVP
 
My normal CAS load for the Navy is 20 gr fffg, lubed wad, .380 rb. It's the same load I've used for 20+ years. If I'm shooting LR Pistol side match at a CAS match, I'll eliminate the wad and load 25 gr fffg and a .380 rb. I only use real BP. In a pinch I've used APP and T7, wasnt impressed with them, and was glad to get some real stuff to use.

Log Cabin Sport shop is a source for .380 cast balls.
http://www.logcabinonline.com/index1.html
 
You can get all you want at Friendship for 6.00 a hundred. From 2 different
supplers. "Rush Creek" and "Flintlocks Inc"
 
I've got a variety of both .375s and .380s available for sale here...
Just sayin... :)

That said, measure your chambers if you can. If you're already shaving plenty of lead with .375s, you might not see much change in performance with .380s.
 
Again guys thanks for all the SAFE information! I think that the 20 gr load is a good one it is within all safe perimeters and pressures and it seem to work fine in my gun.
I'm just new at this BP shooting and I really appreciate all your help. Elsewhere I have been told to fill the cylinders up full and then shoot the gun. What nutty advice! I don't want to blow my gun up I want to shoot it safely and just have fun!
I have asked this question on several Forums and this is the only place you get good, safe information!
Good to now know where to get .380 Balls too. I need to mic my chambers and make sure what size they are?
ZVP
 
I'm just new at this BP shooting and I really appreciate all your help. Elsewhere I have been told to fill the cylinders up full and then shoot the gun. What nutty advice! I don't want to blow my gun up I want to shoot it safely and just have fun!
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I have been shooting cap and ball revolvers for 42 years now, firing thousands and thousands of rounds out of numerous models and types, and there is no way you can possibly fill up any .36 cal cylinder with enough with black powder to "blow" your gun up.
 
I have been shooting cap and ball revolvers for 42 years now, firing thousands and thousands of rounds out of numerous models and types, and there is no way you can possibly fill up any .36 cal cylinder with enough with black powder to "blow" your gun up.
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No but you can beat a brass frame to death with very few rounds.
 
ClemBert said:
Your model has a steel frame so there isn'y any reason to be concerned with any load. Even a max load with 777 should be fine.
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Let's just keep repeating it over and over again until the OP understands this. I still don't think he gets it. :p
 
Hi Fellows

I have a steel frame 51 .36, haven't got around to shooting it. Bought a good supply of .375 rd ball for it. Have been wanting to mold the revolver bullets that Buffalo Bullets use to make. I believe they were 80grs, suppose to have the power of the 380 auto, maybe a little more with the .36 pistol bullets. Than you see that you may have to do a little filing on the bottom of the part of the barrel, where turning the cylinder to push the bullets in, or you have to load the cylinder out of the revolver. Makes me wonder if round ball is not the only way to go with this one. Was hopping to go with the same kind of lead bullets for the .44s, believe they are 200gr weight. They make for a harder hitting impact down range. What do you suggest, round ball, or revolver bullets? :confused:
 
Than you see that you may have to do a little filing on the bottom of the part of the barrel, where turning the cylinder to push the bullets in, or you have to load the cylinder out of the revolver.
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What??????????????
 
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