Problem I have with using plated bullets in any of my levers, is the lack of a cannelure on most of them. Thus you cannot roll crimp and thus they are subject to getting pushed deeper into the case during recoil.
Add to that the force on the bullets due to the design of the tube magazine feed system.
The force of recoil shooting .357s isn't much, even from the light carbines, its just not nearly the same as the force of heavier recoiling rounds.
HOWEVER, look at the force applied by the tube mag system, which is a constant factor, though it changes slightly as the magazine empties.
First, side gate loading is done by pushing the cartridge in, bullet first, into the tube against the tension of the magazine spring, and this increases slightly for each following round. So, that a pressure on an uncrimped bullet, right there.
During recoil, the entire column of rounds in the tube can shift forward, and then are slammed back against the stops by the spring.
And then, when you cycle the action, one round gets slammed back onto the lifter as the entire column of ammo is pushed by the mag spring. As each round gets fed, it's bullet is bearing the force of the rounds ahead of it in the tube, and this force is pushing on the bullet.
Neck tension alone may not be (and often isn't) enough to hold the bullets in their proper place during the tube mag rifle feeding process.
If you look at the history of lever guns and their ammo, you'll find that all the rounds made for them are factory crimped, or heel type bullets (which are also factory crimped but for a different reason).
Roll crimp is best, but even a taper crimp would help, but possibly not be enough for a tube fed lever gun.