.357 or .38, I Want A Revolver

R

robincc05

Inactive
Thank you all of the very useful information. I am definately leaning towards a .357 and most likely with S&W or Ruger. I'll be visiting some local gun dealers over the next couple of weeks so as to have an opportunity to handle a few of the different brands and models.

Will let you know what I decide.

Thanks again.



Recently I had the opportunity to shoot a S&W (model unknown) .357 and am now thinking of purchasing a revolver. Unfortunately I have only shot handguns on a couple of occasions (most of my experience is with shotguns, mostly 00). I for sure want a revolver, .357 or .38, S&W looks like a good manufacturer but am open to any manufacturer of "quality" handguns. I know a want a 3 - 4" barrel (no snubs), adjustable sight, with a medium weight frame. Use will be target/self protection.

Here are some of my questions:
.38 or .357?
Frames....P....K.... what's the difference???
Doesn't one have the capability of shooting both rounds? If so which one?
What about reddot or other sights?
Have reviewed S&W information regarding Models 10 and 67, what are your thoughts on these or similar models from other manfacturers?

Oh, almost forgot, definetly double-action.

I am open to any advice you may have to offer.

Thanks
 
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Id get the ruger gp100 357 mag which can also chamber 38 special about 400.00 in stainless steel,very nice dependable gun.
 
I also recommend the Ruger GP-100 or S&W 686. Both are .357's so you can also shoot .38's. They also can be had with 4" barrels and adj. sights.
 
Buy a S&W Model 15 if you like .38 special. Model 19 is the same gun in .357 magnum, also it can only handle a limited amount of full house .357 loads. IMO the best revolvers.

In stainless steel the models are 65 and 66 I think.

Both have the K-frame, which is the best handling frame of all S&Ws.

Don't buy Ruger, Taurus or Colt.. They all have their shortcomings.

The Python may be the best revolver, but it is very complicated. As long as it shoots it's ok, if something goes wrong it'll be *very* expensive to repair. It's because of so nice stuff like full cylinder lockup before the shot is fired. S&W/Taurus/Ruger have slight cylinder play and the bullet itself brings the cylinder to full lockup so to say.

The idea with the model 19 (or 66 in stainless) is to shoot .38 +p at the range and carry .357 which can also be shot occasionally to familiarize oneself with the loads.

That is my advice if you buy a used revolver.

If I had to buy a new one I'd buy a Taurus with 4" barrel in .357 magnum.
 
Revolver stuff

Frame size - bigger framed guns handle the abuse of discharges better, allow larger cylinders for greater capacity (more shots), and absorb recoil better for more comfortable shooting and faster followup shots. Smaller framed guns are lighter to carry, conceal better. In the S&W line J < K < L < M < N. In the Ruger line, SP101 < GP100 < Redhawk.

Barrel length - longer barrel accelerates bullet to higher velocity, has a longer sight radius for greater practical accuracy, absorbs flip for more comfortable shooting and faster shot to shot recovery. Shorter barrel is lighter and conceals better. They basically come from 2" to 12". I'd get a 4" for all purpose (allows carry), or a 6" for range, home defense, and hunting (all purpose except carry).

Caliber - they still make .38 Special revolvers, but not too many anymore. I would just get a .357 Magnum. That allows you to shoot .357s or .38s at your pleasure.

Smith & Wesson is a fine choice... check out the 686P lineup too - that is probably their most popular at present, and offer 7 shot capacity.

Good luck!
Caleb
 
I. FRAME LETTERS. Smith & Wesson revolvers (in modern times) come in four different principal frame sizes, which are represented by different letters:

J -- little pocket revolvers, typically snubnoses; the "Chief's Special" frame.

K -- a very handy medium size; the classic Model 10 .38 Special, and the classic Model 19 and Model 66 .357 Mag revolvers come in this size. S&W has recently discontinued almost all of its K-frame revolvers, but there are still zillions on the used market.

L -- a medium-large or "service revolver" size. Introduced circa 1980 and principally found as the Model 586 (blue) and Model 686 (stainless), beefed-up .357 Mags with the strength to handle a lot of .357 ammo. The L-frame is also the size of the discontinued cult classic Model 696 five-shot .44 Special, which brings big $$ on the used market.

N -- the large or full-sized frame. Smith & Wesson's .44 Magnum, .45 ACP, and .45 Colt revolvers, and nearly all of their .44 Special revolvers, have been on this frame.


II. SHOOTING .38 SPECIAL AMMO IN .357 MAGNUM REVOLVERS. The .357 Magnum round is a lengthened .38 Special round with a lot more powder inside it. All .357 Magnum revolvers will also chamber and shoot .38 Special ammunition with no problems. I probably shoot two or three rounds of .38 through my .357 sixguns for every round of true magnum ammo. (Shooting a few boxes of the short .38 rounds may build up a ring of crap inside the chambers of your .357 that you must clean out before loading it with .357 again, but this is not hard.) The reverse is not true: you should never shoot any .357 Magnum ammo in a revolver chambered for .38 Special, even if the magnum rounds will fit in the shorter chambers (which they should not).


III. GOOD .38/.357 REVOLVERS. For bread-and-butter revolver shooting, Smith & Wesson and Ruger are the Ford and Chevy of the marketplace. Hard to go wrong with either.

The most common "starter" revolvers for serious shooters these days are the Ruger GP100 and the S&W 686. Both are service-sized, adjustable-sighted .357 Magnum revolvers, a little big for concealed carry but just right for the nightstand, open carry, or relaxing at the range. You can shoot .357 or .38 ammo in them as you like. Both are durable, accurate, and look good. I somewhat prefer the GP100 on the merits, and it is cheaper as well, but as I said, you can't go wrong with either. The 686 is available in a seven-shot version; the GP100 is not.

Don't rule out the good old S&W Model 10. It is a .38 Special (so no using .357 ammo in it!) but they are well made, accurate guns that will suffice for 90% of what you might need a handgun for. The M10 remains in current production and there are literally millions of used examples in circulation.

If you find a nice example of the discontinued S&W Model 19 (blued, K-frame .357 Mag) or Ruger Security Six (predecessor to the GP100, a little smaller and lighter), those are great choices as well. Older Model 19s may need to be inspected carefully because they sometimes shoot loose after a lot of magnum ammo. The Rugers, old and new, are pretty near indestructible.

As for Colt .357s, I own a Colt Python and like it, though I would sell it long before I would sell any of my Ruger revolvers. Pythons are beautiful guns and usually fine shooters. Not as durable as the Rugers or, some would add, the Smiths. Some find the Colt trigger action feels funny (it "stacks" as you pull it), while others adore it. With Pythons, it might be wise to stick to examples from the 1970s and earlier, if possible. Others speak highly of the Colt Trooper models, but I have no experience with them.
 
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Ditto the .357 Magnum

I have a 586 - and I shoot both .357s and .38 - why split the difference when in this case you can have your cake and eat it too?
 
Magnums are more fun. I have two 686 S&W (4" and 2"), a model 60 (.357) a 36 S&W (.38) and a Colt Detective Special (.38). While the .38's are light and carry friendly, the magnums offer the option of going with two calibers and the weight makes either more user friendly on the hands. My father has the GP100, I'll probably get a SP101 DAO soon. Rugers or Smiths are great choices, but don't overlook a Taurus if it catches your eye. DAO is generally more defensive and not as much fun for the range as a single/double action choice. The S&W 649 is a good in between gun - single/double action option with the DAO advantage. Lots of great choices out there. Have fun looking... :D
 
The Model 10 doesn't fit your requirements as it's a fixed sighted revolver.
CarbineCaleb made a mistake as there is no "M" frame S&W.
The stainless steel counterpart to the S&W Model 15 is the Model 67. The Model 65 is a fixed sighted .357magnum revolver.
While searching for your revolver don't overlook the Ruger Security Six, the S&W Model 66, the Colt Trooper MkIII/MkV or King Cobra, or the Dan Wesson M15/M715 on the used market.
 
Hmm, a lot of options. I would try to find some revolvers and check them by handling them. In the end everybody has to choose the right revolver for himself and that can only be done by handling them, shooting before buying isn't a bad idea too if possible.

I own a S&W M15-3 (1971) and a 14-1 (1961), I absolutely love both guns. When I'm going to the range and put the rounds into it it's a feeling hard to describe, nearly magic. If a revolver doesn't evoke these magical moments something's wrong! Neither Colt / Ruger nor L-frames are options for me. M19, 66 and 67 are the .357 blued, .357 stainless and .38 stainless models as Majic pointed out.
Don't like the .357 because it goes "BANG-----BANG" vs. "bang-bang-bang" ;)

And the best thing: S&Ws are absolutely cheap! I paid 102.53 for my M14-1 and it has .006" cylinder gap, professional trigger job, trigger shoe and target grips similar to the herrett's target grips.
 
Definetly go with a .357 Mag. You can use the .357 ammo for personal protection and close range hunting and the 38 Spl for low-recoil target practice. Keep in mind, that with a 3-4" barrel, you won't be able to shoot tight groups. You might be able to hit a man-sized target at 40-50 yards, but they are generally suited to close range.

You are smart to want a double action revolver. If you get hauled into court for shooting a person that broke into your house, you can't be blamed for using a gun with a "hair trigger". (Obviously this assumes the worst and you can't get to your shotguns).

Smith & Wesson and Ruger are probably the two best revolvers as far as economically priced quality hand guns. Taurus also makes a good gun. I have a Taurus .357 and love it. The quality is almost as good as Ruger and S&W but you will pay a little less for it.

Beware of the cheap gun!! Personally, I would stay away from Charter Arms. Other people may feel different, but I don't like them. They just feel sloppy to me (and I'm a machinist). For a good gun, start looking at the ones priced from $350 to $600.
 
I agree with Ac1. I would like to see an X-Frame .357. You think they could cram 10-12 rounds in that thing? I would very much like to see a "high-Capacity" Revolver.
 
High cap revolvers

They have the 8-shot N-frame PC627... I have shot it and quite liked it, but at least on TFL, not many mention it, so I don't know how many they sell.
 
Guns under 300

My sales rep Chris at CDNN has a list of guns in CDNN's inventory .. that hes been emailing me. told me to pass the word if anyone was interested. all guns under 300 dollars. Most are low in stock, so they dont post them in the flyer. Email to get on the list. He called me today and said thanks for the replys. Hes had multiple responses since i posted it on the forum .. Lots of revolvers which im not a big fan of. But either way I think its a great way to get a deal on a first time gun or just looking for something to unload some rounds.
Lots of single revolvers. you can also order a catalog via email.

One guy paged me and said that chris emailed him within the hour with a customer #. with a attaced list of used and new guns under $300.00

chrisatcdnn@hotmail.com
 
Definitely try out a Taurus!

You should really shoot a taurus before buying. a nice model 627 in stainless in .357 weighs around 28 ounces and gives 7 shots. Well made, and shoots well.
 
The stock answer is to buy a good .357 so you can shoot both .38's and .357's. It's hard to argue with that logic but you did mention the Smith model 67 in .38 Special. The 67 is the same as the model 15 but in stainless steel. Once upon a time these revolvers were dubbed the "Combat Masterpiece."

The Smith models 15 and 67 are my all time favorite .38 Special revolvers. If you see one in good condition, priced below $300 and with a pinned barrel, grab it quick! I can't vouch for current production.
 
Posted this pic on another thread, but since you are talking .357, here's mine. Earlier SW model 65, 4" barrel, light single action and smooth double action, fixed sights and some grips I made for it. Tiger maple grips with stainless frame.
Shoots dead center with magnum loads, and slightly low with .38.
SW65.jpg
 
The .357 Maximum was notorious for flame cutting so I doubt that we will see new revolvers chambered for it.
 
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