357 crimp problem (photo)

T

Twinsig

New member
New Starline brass, Lee 3 die set, (no FCD, yet)

Left has 1/2-3/4 crimp, 5th round backing out .20 on my sp101

Right is additional crimp without additional seating and certainly doesn't look like the 44s I did long ago.

I have a Lee FCD & Redding profile crimp in my shopping cart but would like some guidance before I do anything.

Suggestions?
 

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The left cartridge needs additional seating so the brass can be rolled into the
cannelure.
The right cartridge is over crimped, the brass should be rolled in to the bullet.
Once you get it right you will not need any "trick" dies
to make crimps.
 
OP - are you seating and crimping in one step? I have found that much better results are obtained when seating and crimping are separated into two different steps, all using the seater die crimp.

However, as stated above, the Lee FCD works very well in applying crimps.

Bayou
 
Jag, agree. Left Needs additional seating. Right is jacked-up. The crimp ring is sliding over the case mouth creating that "ring".

Bayou,
seating & crimping in one die.

Jet, haven't checked on the collet crimp.

Since im using a 4 hole turret im leaning toward some version of crimp die since I have to cycle the turret past that empty stage anyway.

I want one that will roll and/or taper. Redding profile crimp??
 
Of all the revolver calibers to seat and crimp in one step, .357 is the easiest. I load on SS and the only caliber I seat and crimp in 2 steps is .460. It looks like to me in your pic that on the cartridge on the left, there is very little crimp applied. Seems to me all you need to do is adjust your die to seat a hair deeper and to crimp a tad more.

I agree with jaguarxk120........
Once you get it right you will not need any "trick" dies
to make crimps.
Click to expand...
 
Update

These were 1.580 oal, now 1.555 w/9.9 gr AA7/158 gr Win JHP
Looking way better to me and I've got about 100 to re-crimp. BUT, I'm going to check the data further and might have to pull these!
My book has XTPs at 9.8gr (max) AA7 oal 1.545
Not 100% sure these Win JHPs are comparable to XTP.
Also don't want to get a thick glove and piece of plywood just to test a 30 cent round. Sounds a bit warm but ought to work though. Famous last words.
 

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I don't have Lee dies, suggest you read instruction sheet again and start over. Your bullet nose is badly distorted and your crimp is way excessive. Be patient, you'll get it sorted out.
 
I crimp far less than that and my bullets don’t budge in an air weight. I use the Lee FCD. Just buy it. Works great.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions .. im definately not comfortable with these results.. think I'll try the Redding unit and utilize that last stage in the 4 hole turret and crimp separate from seating.
 
Do yourself a favor and get a Lee Collet Crimp die for your .357.
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THAT^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I love my collet crimp die in the 4th hole of my turret press , do not confuse with the FCD they are not the same . Best thing is they are not trim length dependent as much as the other crimp dies .
 
Why Is The Left Hand Bullet Not Seated as Far As the Right?

When reloading straight wall cases the first step for me is to trim to the same length. This makes the bell the same, the bullet seating the same, and the crimp uniform. And, my mentor told me to never seat and crimp in the same operation, I bought a four die set.
 
When reloading straight wall cases the first step for me is to trim to the same length. This makes the bell the same, the bullet seating the same, and the crimp uniform.
Click to expand...

Uniform case length is the key. Do that, and PROPERLY adjust your die and you can seat and crimp in one step without problems.
 
Still Overcrimping

Those rounds are still being forced past the case shoulder. That is not only unnecessary, it is possibly distorting the bullets, costing you accuracy.

It looks to me like you need to back the die body out approximately 0.010" (about a 7th of a turn), and turn the seating stem in about twice that far so the location of my upper arrow is on the case mouth, but the amount of bullet showing above the mouths is about as much as is showing now.

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How tight are the bullets in the cases before the crimp is applied? They should be so tight you can't push them in. You will also need to crimp them.(hint--RCBS sizing die).
 
I made adjustments per the great uncle and have concluded the crimp ring in the Lee seating/crimp die is still forced over the case mouth AND does not create a concentric crimp.. adequate/heavy crimp that is...
Under my lighted desktop magnifying glass I can spin the crimped case and view
concentricity irregularities.
Im going to throw 20 bucks at this for a collet crimp before I scrap this particular
Lee set and switch to another brand.
Again. Thanks yall.. stay safe out there
 
Back your crimp die up so you have no contact with the casing. Place a bullet in the flared case mouth. Slowly lower the bullet seating stem until the case mouth is even with the upper half of the cannelure. Now back up the seating stem and lower the crimp assembly until tou get a factory like crimp. Now lower the seating stem to contact the bullet. You should be real close. Don't worry about a dimension. Crimp in the cannelure and you will be good
 
In my old age(be 76 next birthday) I now buy RCBS or Redding dies, and yes I've bought Lee, Dillon, Lyman, Hornady and Texan(you won't know about Texan).
Just sayin'................................
 
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