I recently uncovered issues pertaining to 357 reloads that I created several years ago. I seldom shoot revolvers or semi-auto pistols. I mostly shoot semi-auto rifles. Regardless, I have seldom had feeding issues but when I encountered them, I quickly resolved the issues. All my semi-autos feed well. This issue was waiting for me. I have two 357 mag revolvers: SW #19 and Ruger SS. After creating optimum and accuracy loads for #19, I sometime later purchased the SS. All of my 357 reloads chambered well in my SW. I was recently preparing SS for the range when I noticed (by accident) that most of the #19 reloads would feed into the SS cylinder but some required more than necessary force to remove them with the cylinder's plunger. Again, they fit and ejected fine in the #19. It turned out that the SS had one cylinder that was slightly tighter than the remaining 5. WEIRD!!!! I had reloaded all 357 ammo using a Dillon 550 progressive and RCBS dies (non-carbide). At the time, I tested several reloads using the #19. To be sure all now work, I resized all 357 reloads using an RCBS single stage press and Lee carbide dies. Now, all 357 brass easily loads and unloads in the SS. All 500+ of them!!!!!! Either the Dillion/RCBS combination didn't resize perfectly at the time, or I didn't have shell plate as close as I really needed it to resize, or the carbide die resized them further. I don't have mics. capable of precisely measuring all the inside dimensions of my SS cylinders, but I KNOW 1 is slightly SMALLER that the remaining 5.
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357 ammo needed resizing
- Thread starter tank1949
- Start date
jetinteriorguy
New member
It could be your crimp as well. If some of the brass is significantly shorter than the one you used to set your crimp it may still have a slight bell left from the powder drop/expander. That plus a slightly undersize chamber could do that.
Jim Watson
New member
I resized all 357 reloads using an RCBS single stage press and Lee carbide dies.
You sized the loaded rounds? Well, I don't guess that is much different from a carbide factory crimp.
Kind of unusual to be loading a straight wall pistol case with steel dies these days. Were they inherited or bought second hand?
J.G. Terry
New member
I use case gauges on reloads. It's easy and works very well on revolvers. You did not speak of firing 38 Special's in your guns. That excludes the crud ring. I'd suggest you try to figure where the cartridges gets tight in the chambers. I suspect that that your sizing die is not the problem. I go along with the need to check that crimp. It's exactly correct that adjusting your dies on a short case is crazy making. Those problems are in the bullet seating die. Put that Lee sizing die in your 550 and see what happens. That will save you a step and also see if the RCBS die is a problem.
Also, I have had revolvers bought second hand that had a "blown chamber" due to a way too heavy load. That would cause case extraction problems.
Also, I have had revolvers bought second hand that had a "blown chamber" due to a way too heavy load. That would cause case extraction problems.
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I brushed or scrubbed all cylinders to remove any crap. I also reseated a few 357s a little deeper just incase bullets were touching cone and causing isses. I seldom, if any at all shoot 38s. But, the scrubbing should have removed any crap. Only one SS cylinder was causing issues. I could easily drop in and remove the same bullets into the remaining 5 cylinders. I suspect my Dillion set up and 1 SS cylinder met a perfect storm. Yes, and you can run straight walled cased through a carbide sizer again. At one time many many years ago running 44 mag ammo back through a resizer help keep bullets inside case mouths, which heavy recoil cause them to come out. Now, Lee, and I am sure others sell factory crimp dies. I sanded cylinder but it didn't help. THX to all!
Without reading the entire thread here are some thoughts:
You might try polishing the Ruger's chambers...all of them, not just the sticky one. I've used JB Bore paste for this, on a .357 used bore bush wrapped with a thin flannel patch and an electric drill at fairly slow speed. I'd avoid the forcing cone area of the chamber itself...polish a little, then try your problem round...then polish some more.
This has worked very well on a troublesome Ruger.357 Blackhawk Flat Top, with one chamber that was a bit tight. Also, I've recently done a S&W Model 18, 4" .22 LR which had slightly rough chambers. This took considerably longer using the JB Bore paste method. Accuracy was not affected but simultaneous ejection of six fired cases has improved markedly.
Another thing to check, is the forward end of each chamber, where the forcing cone is...if you've been shooting .38 Specials, their shorter length allows bullet lube and lead shavings to build up...this is relatively common and I'm sure you're aware of it, as it can affect seating as well as ejection of fired .357 length brass.
Currently, I have the following S&W .357 Magnums: two M19's, two M66's, a M27, and a pair of M60's and I cast my own bullets for them sizing all of them to 0.359" for the S&W's. My son and and I also have two Ruger .357 Flat Top Blackhawks which we load with the same 0.359" sized cast bullets. Like you, I'm using a Dillon 550B and with RCBS carbide dies. With these sized bullets and with the RCBS dies, I've had no trouble loading or ejecting cartridges. For the most part I'm using Starline brass with my loads. the preceding, just to give you some idea of our similarities in equipment and guns.
My thoughts are that it's possible you've had some overly thick brass (not likely), an oversized sizing die which is not adequately sizing down your fired brass (possible) or undersized chambers in the Ruger. This last is a possibility since a chamber reamer gets smaller as it wears out...giving you undersized chambers. As I understand it, currently, Ruger bores all of the chambers in each cylinder at one time. The boring head has six 'drills'/chambering reamers in other words. If one of them was worn beyond limits, it would give you that undersized chamber....just a thought.
Lastly, If you cast your own, you can size to 0.358" or 0.357" to give that problem chamber some add'l clearance...not what I'd do, as it may lead to leading issues depending on your chamber throat diameters as well as your bbl. groove dia.
It sounds like you're resizing the entire loaded round after completion to alleviate the problem....are you having leading issues as a result? And how is accuracy affected if at all? Were it me, I'd send the gun back to Ruger or polish out that problem chamber, avoiding the throat area, as a permanent fix..
Best Regards, and thx for sharing...it got me thinking along those lines. Rod
You might try polishing the Ruger's chambers...all of them, not just the sticky one. I've used JB Bore paste for this, on a .357 used bore bush wrapped with a thin flannel patch and an electric drill at fairly slow speed. I'd avoid the forcing cone area of the chamber itself...polish a little, then try your problem round...then polish some more.
This has worked very well on a troublesome Ruger.357 Blackhawk Flat Top, with one chamber that was a bit tight. Also, I've recently done a S&W Model 18, 4" .22 LR which had slightly rough chambers. This took considerably longer using the JB Bore paste method. Accuracy was not affected but simultaneous ejection of six fired cases has improved markedly.
Another thing to check, is the forward end of each chamber, where the forcing cone is...if you've been shooting .38 Specials, their shorter length allows bullet lube and lead shavings to build up...this is relatively common and I'm sure you're aware of it, as it can affect seating as well as ejection of fired .357 length brass.
Currently, I have the following S&W .357 Magnums: two M19's, two M66's, a M27, and a pair of M60's and I cast my own bullets for them sizing all of them to 0.359" for the S&W's. My son and and I also have two Ruger .357 Flat Top Blackhawks which we load with the same 0.359" sized cast bullets. Like you, I'm using a Dillon 550B and with RCBS carbide dies. With these sized bullets and with the RCBS dies, I've had no trouble loading or ejecting cartridges. For the most part I'm using Starline brass with my loads. the preceding, just to give you some idea of our similarities in equipment and guns.
My thoughts are that it's possible you've had some overly thick brass (not likely), an oversized sizing die which is not adequately sizing down your fired brass (possible) or undersized chambers in the Ruger. This last is a possibility since a chamber reamer gets smaller as it wears out...giving you undersized chambers. As I understand it, currently, Ruger bores all of the chambers in each cylinder at one time. The boring head has six 'drills'/chambering reamers in other words. If one of them was worn beyond limits, it would give you that undersized chamber....just a thought.
Lastly, If you cast your own, you can size to 0.358" or 0.357" to give that problem chamber some add'l clearance...not what I'd do, as it may lead to leading issues depending on your chamber throat diameters as well as your bbl. groove dia.
It sounds like you're resizing the entire loaded round after completion to alleviate the problem....are you having leading issues as a result? And how is accuracy affected if at all? Were it me, I'd send the gun back to Ruger or polish out that problem chamber, avoiding the throat area, as a permanent fix..
Best Regards, and thx for sharing...it got me thinking along those lines. Rod
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J.G. Terry
New member
I'd suggest sending the handgun back to Ruger. If you have done all you can do give Ruger a try at fixing the gun. JB is not an abrasive. I'd sure suggest not doing anything drastic to the gun. Also, if you can, try a factory round in the chamber in question. See what happens.
Driftwood Johnson
New member
Howdy
First of all, the round part of a revolver, where the cartridges go, is called the cylinder. The holes in the cylinder are called chambers, or charge holes. The holes in the engine block in your car are called cylinders, the holes in a revolver cylinder are not.
Sorry, pet peeve.
Running loaded rounds back through the sizer die again will squeeze down that portion of the bullet that is inside the case. Squeeze it down smaller than when first loaded. Not a good practice. There is probably enough of the bullet protruding from the case to still engage the rifling properly, but you have squeezed down the portion inside the case.
Carbide dies for straight cases such as 357 Mag have been around for decades. I recommend them. You don't have to lube the cases if you have carbide dies. You should be lubing the cases if you are using steel dies or you run the risk of getting a case stuck in the sizer die.
Check your crimps to make sure they are fully crimped and are curled into the crimp groove of the bullets. You may not have removed all the 'bell' you put there when you belled the cases.
First of all, the round part of a revolver, where the cartridges go, is called the cylinder. The holes in the cylinder are called chambers, or charge holes. The holes in the engine block in your car are called cylinders, the holes in a revolver cylinder are not.
Sorry, pet peeve.
Running loaded rounds back through the sizer die again will squeeze down that portion of the bullet that is inside the case. Squeeze it down smaller than when first loaded. Not a good practice. There is probably enough of the bullet protruding from the case to still engage the rifling properly, but you have squeezed down the portion inside the case.
Carbide dies for straight cases such as 357 Mag have been around for decades. I recommend them. You don't have to lube the cases if you have carbide dies. You should be lubing the cases if you are using steel dies or you run the risk of getting a case stuck in the sizer die.
Check your crimps to make sure they are fully crimped and are curled into the crimp groove of the bullets. You may not have removed all the 'bell' you put there when you belled the cases.
While its not unheard of for one chamber to shoot slightly "away" from the others, this is the first I've head of one chamber being "tighter" with loaded ammo.
What does factory ammo do in that "tight" chamber? Does it stick like your reloads? IF so, the gun needs a little work. If not, then your reloaded need a little work.
(assumes chamber is clean)
What does factory ammo do in that "tight" chamber? Does it stick like your reloads? IF so, the gun needs a little work. If not, then your reloaded need a little work.
(assumes chamber is clean)
Also, I have had revolvers bought second hand that had a "blown chamber" due to a way too heavy load. That would cause case extraction problems.
You bought a revolver that was blown up?
J.G. Terry
New member
Taper Crimp Die
I think OP would do well to review some revolver reloading basics. The FCD would be my very last choice for crimping cast bullet loads. You can neatly step away from many problems using a taper crimp die. I suggest taking a look at Redding's offering. I have had no trouble with Dillon dies doing several revolver cartridges. Those dies have a separate crimping die.
I think OP would do well to review some revolver reloading basics. The FCD would be my very last choice for crimping cast bullet loads. You can neatly step away from many problems using a taper crimp die. I suggest taking a look at Redding's offering. I have had no trouble with Dillon dies doing several revolver cartridges. Those dies have a separate crimping die.
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buck460XVR
New member
Iffin the op's ammo fits in every charge hole between the two guns, except for one, I doubt very much if it has anything to do with his reloading technique. Sounds like a tight charge hole in the Ruger. Seems from reading on several of these types of forums, not uncommon for the Rugers, especially the SS. I would assume, at some point with legitimate .357 loads, that same chamber will give sticky extraction after firing, even those resized rounds. I would suggest contacting Ruger.
Please define "Ruger SS"..
Is it a Ruger Security Six, Ruger Speed Six, - some sort of Ruger (Blackhawk maybe?) made of Stainless Steel ?
I seem to recall Ruger at one time had some issues with chambers being out of spec & users had to take them to a smith to have them reamed.
I believe it was .45 cal though.
Harbor Freight sells digital calipers for pretty cheap - about $20.
They are plenty accurate enough for things like checking chamber dimensions -overall length of cartridges - slugs (for slugging barrels and chamber mouths)
Is it a Ruger Security Six, Ruger Speed Six, - some sort of Ruger (Blackhawk maybe?) made of Stainless Steel ?
I seem to recall Ruger at one time had some issues with chambers being out of spec & users had to take them to a smith to have them reamed.
I believe it was .45 cal though.
Harbor Freight sells digital calipers for pretty cheap - about $20.
They are plenty accurate enough for things like checking chamber dimensions -overall length of cartridges - slugs (for slugging barrels and chamber mouths)
It is a Security Six and was seldom shot. The loads I worked up to were for my SW #19, but they are just as accurate in SS. Good gun for price. Back in the early 70s when I bought it, the WWW was non-existent. Now, you can research anything. Thanks for your response. I will do web search on this issue but since it may be very old it may not have been added to any online index.
Jim Watson
New member
First, contact Ruger. I don't know if they are still working on the Security Six but it can't hurt to ask.
Plan B is to find a knowledgeable revolversmith to ream at least that chamber and maybe all of them to match.
Pinnacle does a Smith 929 "reliability package" for $95, maybe he will on other guns. I wouldn't bother with a clip conversion, they are not all that useful in a .357.
http://pinnaclehighperformance.com/cylinder-work/
Plan C is to just continue to kluge the ammo. Maybe a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp would iron it out enough to fit the undersize chamber.
Plan B is to find a knowledgeable revolversmith to ream at least that chamber and maybe all of them to match.
Pinnacle does a Smith 929 "reliability package" for $95, maybe he will on other guns. I wouldn't bother with a clip conversion, they are not all that useful in a .357.
http://pinnaclehighperformance.com/cylinder-work/
Plan C is to just continue to kluge the ammo. Maybe a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp would iron it out enough to fit the undersize chamber.
First, contact Ruger. I don't know if they are still working on the Security Six but it can't hurt to ask
When my Security Six barrel broke off at the threads, I sent it back to Ruger. They said they don't maintain parts for them anymore so they replaced it with a SP101. However, for a tight cylinder, they wouldn't need parts - just a reamer.