300 Win Mag questions/opinions/advice sought.

B

Battler

New member
(You'll all think I'm nuts).

My rifle experience is mainly with scary-looking military style autoloaders. My experience with true "rifle calibers" is limited to a 308 FAL. I could try to coax a scope onto it; but that's probably a waste of time.

I usually purchase from the "soon to be banned" end of the spectrum, this would be a deviation so I don't want to buy a bunch of good boltactions - just one.

I am not a hunter - I am after a rifle that will be used for recreational shooting at long range.

I was thinking 308 boltaction Rem 700; but am now seriously considering, after looking at the stats "on paper" (reloading manual) of the 300 Win Mag I am considering it as being more flexible wrt. REAL long range target shooting.

I am not too concerned about ammo availability vs. 308 - I'm not going to use this weapon with junk milsurp 150 rounds at a time. . . . from what I see I can buy some casings, and use the same bullets as 308, it's just a matter of spending more on powder from what I see.


What does concern me is how flexible the weapon is, and what the barrel lifetime is on a 300 Win Mag, and vs. a 308 or 30.06. Anyone here who owns one ever worn out a barrel?

Also, I've heard talk that the higher-pressure 300 win mag wears out chambers faster. Is this wear reduced to being equivalent to 308 wear in loads that match 308 velocities?

How much leeway is there in scaling BACK the power for shorter range work so as to reduce wear on the weapon? Of course, I'm not implying using the same powder measurements as in a 308; but rather light, proven and published 300 WM loads that imitate it ballistically (and requiring more powder).


Any information appreciated.

Thanks,
Battler.
 
The problem with the 300 Win is throat erosion. The guys at Hart's tell me that bbl life is less than half that of the 308. Loading the 300 Win down makes no sense since you are burning more powder to get 308 ballistics. Throat erosion can be dealt with by seating bullets closer to the lands, which is what I do in my 300s, but remember that you are burning half again as much powder as the 308. Also, stainless bbls seem more resistant to erosion than CroMoly. If you want to punch paper, use the 308. The Sierra 175 Matchking is still supersonic at 1000 yds.
 
I've seen this more than once here. Why would you buy a .300 and load it down to .308?

I shoot the .300 because of what it is capable of and I'm not about to waste the barrel on some squib load for it.

Plink with something else, it's cheaper ;)
 
But, if you already have the plinker, then it is a superior caliber, and common. I love my 300 win (Savage 116SE). great fun, and with a bolt action, erosion is a long way off, you won't be shooting hundreds of rounds a day. (but with the muzzle brake on, you could.)
 
Consider yourself lucky if you get 2000 rnds out of your .300 barrel. My new barrel shoots 1/2 min at 200m, when it opens to 1 min at 100 yrds the barrel is getting changed.
 
Magnum power rifles aren't made to be shot as often as most people like. Shoot something else a lot, and shoot your .300 enough to be proficient.
 
Thanks - I think you guys have set me straight.

Should prolly get the .308, and see where I go from there.

Thanks,
Battler.
 
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