300 weatherby sheet

[rentascout]

Okay so I found a site that had the remington round 180Gr and It showed me some numbers which I hope show up below. I do not think I will ever shoot out at 500 plus yards but is that chart correct showing it is a -45 inch drop at 500 yards or am I confused. I want to go out and get a good zero and think that if I can use this chart in the future it might help me but want to make sure I am understanding it right. So if I shoot 2.7 high at 100 I will be dead ( poa and poi) at 200 and about 7+/- at 300, because making that one adjustment should keep me close. Now I am going to be safe to say that the max I will be shooting is 200 this season but we all know that can channge real fast or not even be given the chance with brush



Range Drop VEL Energy Drift Time
0 -1.4944 3120 3890 0.0000 0
50 -0.2622 2991 3575 0.0000 49
100 -0.0021 2867 3285 0.0000 101
150 -0.8005 2746 3013 0.0000 154
200 -2.7529 2628 2760 0.0000 210
250 -5.9650 2513 2524 0.0000 268
300 -10.5546 2401 2304 0.0000 329
350 -16.6534 2292 2099 0.0000 393
400 -24.4084 2185 1908 0.0000 460
450 -33.9851 2082 1732 0.0000 531
500 -45.5693 1981 1568 0.0000 605

 

[Mobuck]

Not necessarily correct. A +2.7" 100 yards zero should put you dead on at a range further than 200 yards. A 30/06 sighted 3" high at 100 is dead on about 225 so the Wby should be closer to 250+.

 

[Brian Pfleuger]

The problem there is that you're zeroed at 100 yards and you have only 1 zero. That means that the bullet is being fired almost flat.

"Normal" sight-in of high-powered rifles has the zero somewhere in the vicinity of 20-25 yards and another zero somewhere around 175-200 yards. At 100 yards, you'd normally be 3/4-2 inches high, maybe more, depending on the cartridge.

Yes, if you fired that bullet with a 100 yard zero, you'd probably be 45 inches low at 500.

In addition, shooting 500 yards, you wouldn't be depending on a 100 yard sight-in and "hold over". You'd be adjusting the scope a certain amount to get a 500 yard zero.

 

[Old Grump]

I have a 38" drop with a 200 yard zero, my default zero for that gun. Add about 3 1/2" for a 100 yard zero and I figure 41" drop so the 45 could be right on depending on your bullet and load. I'm using Remington Core Lokts factory ammo and a 26" barrel so that may account for the difference between my gun and that chart.

 

[jmr40]

Go shoot your rifle at those ranges and find out. That is the only way to know. The charts are only a very rough guide and give you a guess as where to expect your bullets will hit once you start shooting at targets. It is not close enough to trust for hunting.

For one thing they are useless unless you know the exact velocity you are getting with YOUR rifle. Those numbers are from test barrels. All guns are very different, 100 fps variances between different rifles with ammo from the same box is not unusual. Shooting your gun over a chronograph, finding the Ballistic coefficient of the bullet you are using and plugging that info into a ballistics program is much closer, but still not perfect.

The individual bullet you choose makes a big difference. With MY 30-06 loads a 180 Nosler Accubond drops 3" less at 500 yards and has 140 ft lbs more energy than 180 gr Hornady interlocks even though they both leave the muzzle at the same speed. The Noslers are more aerodynamic.

If you never plan on shooting beyond 300 yards zero at 100 yrds and go hunting. With most modern rounds you are still flat enough to hit deer at 300 yards by putting the crosshairs on the top of the animals back. No hold over needed. The complex ideas of zeroing 2-3" high at 100 yards only give you 25-30 more yards of range without holdover and just complicate things at close range where you have to remember to hold low.

Sighting in 2-3" high at 100 is actually more useful with cartridges like 30-30 that do not shoot flat, or if you are planning on shooting at 500-600 yards on a regular basis.