.300 blackout

I jumped into the .300bo game about 5 or 6 years ago and got a set of Lee dies. To date I've probably reloaded 5k plus rounds with them and made about 1k cases from LC 5.56 brass. I currently have 3 AR's and one bolt gun chambered in .300bo and my reloads feed fine in all 3.
A year or so ago I picked up a set of RCBS SB dies just to have another set to use a single stage press for load development, Lee's are setup on a turret press. They work just as well.
 
Full length if your rifle is a semi-auto.
Taper crimp if you wish, not a requirement .
Or you could crimp with the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

Some will tell you to get the small base die. I load for several semi-autos including two 300 BO and have never found the need for a SB die.
 
if you have a large chamber and small dies (both inside specs) your good to go, but if they are reversed the trouble starts. eastbank.
 
I'd say full length sizer due to the abundance of questionable brass on the market. In my case multiple semi-auto rifles demand FL sizing.
A taper crimp might be a good idea since many of the bullets being used in 300 don't have crimp grooves or they're in the wrong place.
Small base would be dependent on your particular chamber but as above, there are lots of questionable cases floating around which may require an initial sizing with SB to fit. I don't see a real downside of SB dies even if your chamber doesn't require it.
I don't remember what brand my dies are(ended up with duplicates-same brand due to some trading)and my knees hurt too much to walk down and check-RCBS or Hornady would be my best guess.
 
No problems with Hornady and RCBS full-length die sets with roll crimp. I only shoot jacketed bullets in 16" 300 BLK. AR carbines. If you intend to shoot lead or coated bullets then a taper crimp die would be better. I've seen no need for a small based sizer die loading only all LC and a few other brand military once fired brass. Best of both worlds, buy a full-length die set with roll crimp seater and add a separate taper crimp seater die. I do highly recommend a headspace gauge such as Hornady's Headspace Set to measure the amount you push the shoulders back for your rifle. Chamber lengths seem to vary in various brand rifles. Avoid problems and buy a headspace gauge that will measure rather than a drop-in gauge. Hornady's set will measure most all rifle calibers and works with your calipers. My results shows that various brands of brass requires adjusting sizing dies when switching headstamps probably due to brass thickness and hardness?
 
Ok thank you all for your advice, with so many dies out there for reloading I wanted to get advice from folks that actually reload them, again thank you everybody.
 
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