Dudechevy,
You'll notice that Sierra, Nosler, Speer and Hornady and the other major bullet makers all have flat or round nose bullets for 30-30. Speer has the biggest selection with 100, 110, 130, 150 and 170-grain offerings. Sierra comes next with 125, 150, and 170-grain FP Pro-Hunter bullets. Hornady makes 170 grain flat points and 140 and 160-grain flexible tip bullets which, though pointed, have rubberized tips that act like shock absorbers so they won't set off a primer. There are also a whole slew of cast bullets out there that work well, including those by Beartooth Bullets, the original owner of this forum.
The reason for the special bullets for tubular magazine rifles is two-fold. One is that the crimp cannelure and grooves have to be located so the correct amount of bullet sticks out of the case to feed correctly. This is why Hornady, for example, has a different bullet for the .308 Marlin than for the .30-30, even though the weight and type of the two bullets is the same. You want to look for bullets made for the 30-30 specifically for this reason.
The more significant reason is for safety. Cartridges in a tubular magazine have a spring pushing down on the cartridge column. When the gun fires, the inertia of the cartridge column mass tries to keep them in the same place, so the recoil force that starts it moving backward with the gun is transferred mainly through that spring to the top cartridge. In turn, the top cartridge transfers it to the cartridge below it through its case head contact with the second cartridge's bullet. If that bullet is in contact with the primer, that jarring acceleration or the sudden stop, when the compressed magazine spring expands and hammers the cartridges back against the carrier, can set the primer off, firing the cartridge in the magazine, destroying it.
Your primers need to be properly seated below flush with the case head so the bullet's don't make contact with it. If you have doubt, you want to check for that by putting some lipstick on the nose of a bullet sitting upright on the bench and setting a primed case on top of it to see if any lipstick transfers to the primer. If it does, don't use that bullet or set your primers deeper. (A primer pocket depth uniforming tool can help you with getting a little more primer depth.) An optimally seated primer is seated pretty hard and is about 0.003" deeper than where you first feel the anvil feet of the primer make contact with the floor of the primer pocket. Note that even the flat nose bullets require the primer be seated at least below flush with the case head.
Pointed bullets with hard noses are obviously the worst, as the point jams against the primer above it in the column right where a firing pin would, and the pointed shape focuses the force on the primer. But primers can sometimes go off with surprisingly wide and offset contact areas. M.L. McPherson had some photos of the split magazine of a Marlin 1895. He'd been shooting it in winter and running a pretty warm load through it. Because he was wearing gloves, he hadn't notice by feel that the last round he put into the magazine hadn't gone in quite 100% and he didn't look to see the gate was jammed slightly open by it. So the last inserted round was angled inward slightly and just the edge of the flat nose bullet seated in it was leaning on the primer of the previously inserted cartridge. But that was enough to set it off and send metal particles flying.
Bottom line: Follow the rules for loading tubular magazine by using bullets intended for the job and being careful to set your primers as fully and deeply as you can. The potential for damage isn't worth taking risks with.