30 06 loads

J

Jakestar

Inactive
Okay im a bit lost here only just started reloading and cant find any data which to go off.
I live in australia so i am using Adi 2208 powder (equivalent to hodgdon varget and imr 4064) federal primers and speer hot cor 150gr projectiles.
Adi only has load data for aus bullets but aus bullets are too expensive and dont warant me reloading.

I was at the range yesterday with a couple of test loads to see if my guess was in the ball park 47 grain of powder was very inaccurate 48 was about the same 49 was much better and 49.5 was decent but still not what i am hoping for at 100 yards.
I don't have any of the good gear like chronograph stuff.
Mainly wanted decent rounds to hunt with mainly hunting boar and axis deer.

If any one could help me out with load tip and tricks i surely would appreciate that. And does anywhere in the states post projectiles overseas?

Thanks in advance
 
AR2208 IS Varget they are the same powder.

Use Varget data for the Nosler BT as your guide.


If you look at ADI 5th ed. 2010 charge and velocity info and compare to Varget / Nosler BT you'll see they are the same.
 
Since Hodgdon Powder Co. says ADI 2208 is the same as Varget my manual which is Speers 13th edition says with all 150 grain bullets and CCI 200 primers in Winchester brass: Tested in a Remington 700 bolt rifle 22" barrel and 1-10 twist.
Varget Powder 49.0 grains---2559 fps
53.0 grains---2781 fps
Be careful as usual working up to maximum and watch for any pressure signs. No idea what you should try for better accuracy but I would check my rifle for barrel contact with the stock. I've had one rifle where the wood stock warped enough to put more pressure on one side of the barrel and good accuracy went to bad.
 
have you played with seating depths? Berger has a nice article on it, basically they have a list of 4 lenghts to seat the bullet of the rifling, they say one of the 4 will be much better, you can tweak it from there.

what RG1 was referring to was the wooden part of the stock at the front of the gun (the barrel end) having warped and the way it could be contacting the barrel could be affecting the barrel harmonics/the way it vibrates/whips when shooting causing inconsistency.

http://www.bergerbullets.com/getting-the-best-precision-and-accuracy-from-vld-bullets-in-your-rifle/
 
4350 works well for me, and iirc, the pressure is good, and the case is well filled. If your results are poor with a certain powder, it might be easier to experiment with powder that is very different in burn rate and type.you can burn up the entire can and a box of bullets without finding improvement.

My best results come from trying different bullets and powders, improving accuracy by tweaking depth, primers, or so forth have failed me. Remember that using factory loads that often differ only in bullet and charge can show wide swings in accuracy.
 
Thanks heaps guys. Yeah the wooden stock at the barrel end is touching the barrel because the attached to the barrel the barrel dosent come off or does the bolt come out the weapon beside the butt stock is one piece.
Ill let you guys know how i go.
On a different note whats your guys thoughts on crimping??
Cheers
 
For reloading purposes My understanding is that a crimp can slightly increase pressure and velocity due to it releasing the bullet slightly later. for me I think it gives more consistent neck which results in more consistent loads.

On a side note I have heard several other stories, about the purpose for crimping, the first being to keep the bullet from getting pushed back into teh casing when being used in semi auto firearms, and that the crimp puts and angle on the neck making it feed better, dont know how accurate either of those are.
 
Don't crimp to start. It may improve accuracy or it may distort the bullet and make it less accurate at longer ranges. In general, approach crimping gradually and use your maximum range of use to monitor its effect on accuracy.

I know 2208/Varget is designed to compete with IMR 4064, but it is different. At the normal rifle load pressure range it produces less change in pressure and less change in velocity per added grain. That's why you can get to greater maximum charge weights with it. The upper 40's of grains are probably good for the M1 Garand and maybe the Remington gas guns, but for you A-bolt you can go to the larger gas quantity the maximum load densities allow.

Best accuracy will depend on several things. My A-bolt has a bedded synthetic stock and the BOSS muzzle tuner. It sounds like you have a wood stock and no tuner. You might want to float the barrel if it isn't already. You test for this by trying to slide a $1 bill between the barrel and stock. If it won't go, you can remove material from the barrel channel in the stock to break that contact. However, you can also try tuning the contact with wedges.

The way that last method works is you hang a 10-20 lb weight (I use 2 gallons of water in plastic milk jugs) off the front of the stock while the gun is supported at the butt and under the magazine floor plate. With the forestock thus deflect, insert some paper match sticks between the stock and barrel on either side of the barrel so that when you relieve the weight they wedge between the stock and barrel at that one point. Fire a group. Repeat, moving the wedges maybe a quarter of an inch back or forward, depending on where you started. Eventually you should be able to come up with a point at which your best load performs better. If you intend to keep using that same load, you can wet the match stick with epoxy and glue them permanently into the stock. A cross-section from the front will look like the below. But I would test it with all the loads you intend to shoot before fixing on one location. This process tunes the barrel deflections to the recoil moment.

OConner%20Bedding%202_zpsehik5o7c.gif


Some folks have rifles that shoot Nosler bullets better than others. This has been speculated to be due to the slight taper in the Nosler's bearing surface sides. It may make them more sensitive to alignment during seating, such that they shoot better when corrected to zero runout. Seating with a Redding Competition Seating Die will help keep them or any other bullet straight.

Tuning seating depth can have a big effect, but note that the Berger article is about secant ogive VLD shapes that are long in the nose and have to change seating depth more to affect the amount of gas bypass as the bullet jumps to the lands. With a shorter tangent ogive like the Nosler has, you may need to tune in smaller increments. I would try 0.020" steps. Note that if you start with the bullet touching the lands (assuming it will reach them) that you should tune the load's powder charge with the bullet there, then start moving it deeper, as jammed into the lands will have higher pressure.

If you need to be able to feed from a magazine, you may not have a lot of choice about seating depth, in which case the other tuning method may be more productive.

I would recommend looking at Dan Newberry's OCW tuning method for adjusting the charge weight initially.
 
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