30-06 Heavy Barrel Build

R

RC20

New member
I came into some money and am looking at pursuing a desire to get a heavy barrel 30-06.

I know all the arguments for 308, but this is a want, not a practical item.
I am fond of my 30-06s and it would fit in with a mil surplus shooting and collection.

I have something around $1000 to spend on this desire.

Goal is to get a 3/4 MOA accuracy as close to guarantees as possible. Mostly I want to be able to just shoot good groups each range session to make me feel good about my eyes not being so good.

I am not good enough to shoot sub 1/2 MOA so no desire to push for something the true bench rest shooters would put together.

I understand Remington does some special order work, never had one of their 700 actions so I don't know if they are still good though that seems to be one of the go to type.

Any other ideas or options along those lines? Stock choices to make it a go etc.

I also like my two stage triggers so thats a part of the package.

At some point I may shoot enough to wear out a barrel (though the reloads are accuracy oriented not velocity). Ease of replacement that can be done by a good local gun smith and cost of a replacement barrel is a consideration here.
 
What's the longest range you'll shoot at?

You want 3/4 MOA accuracy. Is that the biggest groups you'll accept, or the average of several?

What positions will you shoot from; benchrest, prone with or without bipod, others?

What bullet weights will you use?

Remington's rifles are only guaranteed to shoot a few shots to some standard before their accuracy goes to pot due to barrel heating. So do all the other makes as far as I know. How long are you willing to wait between shots before shooting another one?
 
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If you can find a "donor" Savage long action rifle on the cheap (under $300), re-barrel yourself with a Criterion barrel (it'll give you the 3/4 minute or better), Rifle Basix trigger, it'll leave you three bills for a stock- which could be a Choate or laminate.

Took a bit of effort hitting up the pawn shops last time I did this...and I actually think you're in good position to pick one up at a cheap price as long actions are somewhat less in demand with the long-range crowd these days.
 
I actually think you're in good position to pick one up at a cheap price as long actions are somewhat less in demand with the long-range crowd these days.
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What a shame. Especially when long actions produced accuracy equal to short ones with short cartridges before the short ones were believed to be stiffer than long ones. So what; of couse they are.

Both bend and twist the same amount for each shot fired anyway; repeatability indeed. And long ones hold bedding better than short ones; barreled actions do have torque from bullets accelerating through twisted rifling. And round receivers have the least resistance to torque. Long, flat sided and bottomed ones resist that torque nicely.

I know, I'm a fanitical Winchester 70 fan. And most folks don't care nor understand they're near 3 times stiffer than round, box magazine receivers.
 
The 30/06 has plenty of accuracy potential. Keep in mind it was THE rifle round to beat for years before the .308 came around.
A few years back I had a heavy 30/06 built using a commercial Mauser action and an odd match barrel which had originally be chambered for what was basically a 7.62x57. The barrel had been shot just enough to be super smooth but not worn. This rifle weighs around 10# w/o scope and shoots so well it's scary. Last time I shot it, I put 3 shots in about 3" at 1/4 mile and that wasn't even using match grade bullets.
 
What's the longest range you'll shoot at?

You want 3/4 MOA accuracy. Is that the biggest groups you'll accept, or the average of several?

What positions will you shoot from; benchrest, prone with or without bipod, others?

What bullet weights will you use?

Remington's rifles are only guaranteed to shoot a few shots to some standard before their accuracy goes to pot due to barrel heating. So do all the other makes as far as I know. How long are you willing to wait between shots before shooting another one?
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100 yards (don;'t laugh, its what we have). Maybe the 1000 yard range up North at some point, but that will be a one a year at best.

If I can shoot 5 shot groups 3/4 inch I am happy.

Purely bench over a shooting bag. Days of wild gyrations and odd positions are over.

175g Sierra Match (no we don't need it, but I can get them as low cost as hunting bullets and the tips don't get bent around). Speer Deep Curl would be nice but you can't get them.

Slow shooting, a round every 45 seconds probably. Guns get switched around to shoot them. Usually have 3 of the Mil Suplus or scoped sporters any time I go.

Purely recreational, I am not out to make a mark in the world anymore. I did enough of that when I was younger.
 
I know, I'm a fanatical Winchester 70 fan. And most folks don't care nor understand they're near 3 times stiffer than round, box magazine receiver
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Will a current made one shoot what I want or are we talking pre 64?
 
I'm no expert on the model 70's, but if I was looking for a CRF 70 I would go with a new one over a pre-64 in a second. Modern machining processes, modern steel, and an improved bolt design for better gas venting. That's enough to sell me.
 
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RC20, based on your criteria, most any rifle will do for use at 100 yards. At 1000, you'll need something different. Savage probably makes the most accurate ones these days. Get one with a 1:12 twist for bullets up to 180 grains, faster twist for heavier ones.

Get a current Model 70 as their barrels are probably better than the earlier ones. For best accuracy at the longer ranges, you'll need to use bullets whose diameter is a few ten-thousandths larger than groove diameter. And that may be hard to do.

Has anyone slugged Savage's 30 caliber barrels to get their exact groove diameter?
 
I know, I'm a fanatical Winchester 70 fan. And most folks don't care nor understand they're near 3 times stiffer than round, box magazine receiver

Will a current made one shoot what I want or are we talking pre 64?
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The current FN Model 70s are every bit as good if not better then the pre-64s, Not a whole lot wrong with the post '64s either. Its how they are put together.

Keep an eye on the CMP Auction sight. Every now and then a target Model 70 pops up obtained from the Army Marksmanship Unit.

I got an excellent one in 308 for $650, Since there have been some showing up in '06 that I think went for about the same price, maybe a tad higher.

In my opinion, the critical aspect of accuracy in a rifle is squaring the face of the receiver with the internal barrel threads. The AMU rifles have had that done already, but if you end up with a New rifle, regardless of make, to get consistent accuracy, take it to a good gun smith have him take off the barrel and square the receiver. Lapping the boat lugs go along with truing the receiver.

Slow shooting, a round every 45 seconds probably
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If I can't get two back to back strings of rapid fire (10 rounds in 60 seconds) without have the rounds "walk" I'm gonna fix my rifle.

The new Model 70 barrels are free floated (or at least my Featherweight is) and don't have problems with "walking".
 
Another idea might be looking at sporterized M1903 actions. The 1903's made some damn nice target rifles, its action is one (if not the most) accurate actions out there.

You can find a "bubba-ed" M1903 pretty reasonable (since everyone is wanting un-modified ones today because of the CMP Games).

The M1903 actions are the actions used by the Army for their Mann Accuracy Devices, used to test the accuracy of ammo.

You should be able to find the action, true it, lap the lugs, screw on a heavy barrel, throw it into a stock for less then your $1000 budget and have one heck of a shooter.

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Personally I don't care about groups, I want a rifle to shoot well the WAY I SHOOT IT:

Meaning to me, to test a rifle I shoot it across the course, or 10 rounds standing, 10 rounds setting rapid fire at 200, 300 yard prone rapid at 300 and 20 rounds slow fire at 600. Then I look at scores.

If you plan on shooting Bench Rest, then try the gun at the bench. F-Class, then shoot f-class. For a hunting rifle shoot from conditions found in the field.
 
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M1903's are indeed a good action. If you don't mind waiting for the firing pin to fall after the trigger's released the sear.

In a conversation with Col. Walter Walsh, USMC (Ret.) some years ago, we were talking about his M1903 shooting at the late 1920's Nationals. He said the best thing about his .30-06 Springfield was you had time to take a potty break after pulling the trigger before coming back and getting into position to aim the rifle before the round fired.

http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/walter-walsh
 
Bart,no argument that quick lock time aids good groups.Light striker fall,too.

No argument that if the OP was about a winning target rifle,there are better choices than a Springfield.

But the OP described a rifle to have fun with,to enjoy.

You ever go to a serious muzzle loader shoot?Those guys with sidehammer cap and flintlocks will show most folks what offhand shooting is about.Those guys follow through.

Then there is BPCR with a Sharps or Rolling Block.Some of those guys shoot real good.

My guess is an 03 has a better lock time than most hammer fired semi-autos,like an M1A.I believe you have shot those very well.

IMO,an 03 rifle would have class,start some conversations,and be a joy to shoot.

You might look up Obermeyer barrels.Might be a nice choice on a Springfield.

Sort of a 1950's,60's match rifle.Actually sort of mentally built one..after the 03A4 project...but it was time for impulse control!
 
The OP said that his vision is not great, so why bother to get an expensive rig that will shoot 1/16" groups at 100 yards, using all kinds of benchrest handloading techniques? Such a rig might take several months to put together and may exceed his budget.

Getting a factory heavy-barreled Remington rig in about a week, for around $700 seems like the best option to me.
 
If you are strictly shooting from a bench and weight will not matter, I would order a Savage 112. They come with a bull barrel, adjustable varmint trigger, and nice wood furniture. It is a special order type item but they do it all the time. Barrel changes are simple when you wear it out. The accuracy out of the box is definitely there. The price is not greatly over what you quoted in your available funds.
 
One part I did not list was it was going to be scoped (or need to be)

It sounds like I have some options then.

1. I do have a 1903 Sporter (Mk 1!) my brother will sell me. Get some money from the barrel and offset the cost of a heavy barrel.

2. Look at the Winchester 70s. THe rear peep sight targe ones don't work as I need the scope to do what I want.

3. I did not know about the Savage option so will look at that.

Thank you all, will leave this going as I come across a lot of posters that want a heavy barrel 30-06 and they are not making them.

Remington 700: That is a standard barrel if I have it right? How is the quality these days?
 
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