3" J-frame or 3" K-frame for CCW

C

chaim

New member
I don't carry often. Living in MD I only get to carry around the house or when I'm out of state (a FL non-res permit is good in about 25-30 states). So I only am able to do so much "testing/experimenting".

For years I've thought a 3" K-frame was about the perfect carry gun, especially IWB. Very well balanced, handles great, a little more heft which allows for more powerful ammo and/or quicker follow up shots, not too heavy, a decent sight radius, etc.

However, my 2" Taurus 85 is on a smaller frame and absolutely disappears IWB (included tucked) and I do OK on follow up shots with my chosen ammo (125gr Speer Gold Dot, soon to change over to the 135gr).

My thoughts are the 3" J-frame sized snub would give a longer more user friendly sight radius than a 2" J-frame, yet still be much smaller and trimmer than even a 2" K-frame. Due to various considerations, I don't usually use magnum ammo for self-defense, preferring .38+P so the lighter weight won't have that much of a practical disadvantage, while making it easier to carry all day. IWB it should disappear just as well as a 2" J-frame, with boot grips it will be like it isn't even there.

The 3" K-frame is a tad bigger and heavier so less comfortable. It does give 1 extra round and the size and weight does give more flexibility in loads (should I ever change my mind about magnums being just for play and for the woods). However, if I go J-frame size for belt/IWB carry I may well go with a 3" Ruger SP101 which is hefty enough to negate some of the ammo flexibility. With boot grips a 2"-3" K-frame doesn't disappear as completely as the J-frame, but it is pretty concealable.

I'm kind of back and forth. The balance and flexibility of the K-frame attract me (as well as, I love a 3" K-frame. But the lighter weight and better concealability of the J-frame are attracting me as well. I'm not sure what to make of the 6 shots in the K-frame v. 5 in the J-frame, as it is only 1 shot.

For IWB carry what do you think?

Oh, I do not have a 3" J-frame, only a 2". I do have a 3" K-frame. However, my S&W 65LS is my first .357mag and for sentimental reasons I'm not so sure I want to have the modifications done to it that I plan to have done on my carry revolver (DAO being the main non-reversable one), so even if I go with the K-frame I do need a new one.
 
I've done the 2" and 3" J-frame and K-frame route. I've also used 2" and 3" D-frame Colts, as well as 2" and 3" Taurus revolvers in 38/357/and 45.

The minimal added bulk of the inch of barrel is not an issue with either frame size, as it is IWB and does not lend itself to peeking (an annoying OWB issue) when cover garments are not cut long enough. As you point out, the increased sight radius is also very useful. For me, the minor increase in cylinder width is also not an issue.

I greatly prefer the added bit of heft of the K-frame for quicker follow-up shots , whether it is with 38 +P or 357. I also feel much better armed with that sixth shot in the cylinder. I have a very strong tendency to dobule-tap with a wheelgun due to years of habit.
 
Ro me it's a matter of preference. I prefer a K frame but carry a J more often because the size is a factor for me.

If you like 'em go for it. one round might make the difference but not likely.
 
I prefer the 3" J-frame. If I'm going to go to the mass of a K-frame, I'm going to go for a 4" tube.
 
I have both. I prefer the K frame for the reasons stated. I also like the j frame. Not an easy decision to be sure. I also tend to double tap with a revolver, 6 shots just works better. Once you develop a rythem you will be surprised how fast you can shoot a wheelgun. I actually shoot faster and more accurate with maggies, I think it is years and thousands of rounds that does it. I would NOT convert your S&W to DAO. Why? It is DAO now unless you intentionally cock it.
 
As I have grown older I have become more and more concerned with the mass and weight of my CCW. Recently, I have opted for a S&W Model 60 with a 3" barrel. Just for the heck of it I have installed a CLIPDRAW http://www.clipdraw.com/index.html on it and it has turned out to be an excellent way to carry.
 
I like the 3 inch 65 better, but I carry a 2 inch 642. If i'm going to carry a gun thats heavier and larger I carry a SIG 239 in 40 S&W or a G19 9mm, both conceal better and carry more ammo.

The 3 inch K frame is a great gun. But for me there are better CCW options. Unfortunately, my K frames rarely are used any more except at the range.
 
I don't like to carry IWB ever, it's just not comfortable for me.

As for Ks, I prefer the 3" over the 2 1/2" or 4". But since I always carry a J, I like the 2" barrel, just because I carry in my front pocket and room is at a premium.

For off duty/concealed carry, I prefer my extra ammo in Bianchi Speed Strips. They're flatter, therefore easier to conceal, and I've had speed loaders self-empty in my pocket before.

If you carry concealed, hide it like it's gold.
 
I often carry a 3 inch Model 65 in an OWB holster, but for IWB, I prefer my 3 inch Model 60. I find that a K frame is a tad bulky worn inside the waist band.
 
I like the J frame option for IWB and only consider a K frame for OWB carry. I also stick to 2.5" barrels on my K frames.
 
I would NOT convert your S&W to DAO. Why? It is DAO now unless you intentionally cock it.
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There is a reason I want DAO. I want a bobbed hammer so there is one less thing that can grab clothing and if it is bobbed with no hammer spur to aid in decocking should it accidently become cocked (I'm aware this is unlikely, but it is possible) I'd rather it be converted to DAO for safety reasons.
 
I carry in a hi-ride belt holster. During the summer months I carry my Taurus 85 Ultra-Lite in a pocket holster. When I'm ready to go out, I just throw it in my pocket. :D :D
 
There are a lot of cool and very good choices for concealed carry guns. And I own and use a great many of them. But there is one which really is a sweet spot here... the Colt Detective Special. Here's why I think it's so good:

-Size is small, about the size of a J-frame S&W
-Capacity is 6-shots, same as the K-frame S&W
-Caliber .38 spl +P (Speer 135 gr. Gold Dot +P), very controllable & effective
-All-steel construction, makes for excellent shootability & follow up shots

For these reasons, I think this is one of the world's finest CCW options. And while I love the 3" barrel revos, a 3" barrel just isn't needed in a close quarters defense use concealed carry gun.

Detectives_RL.jpg


My other favorites for SMALL CCW guns are the S&W 640-1 and the 642. The 640-1 is a superb, all steel, centennial design (internal hammer) .357. It's the dream small .357 revo. Very sleek to carry and pull out from clothing. Wonderful action, easy to shoot, comfortable to shoot. But it kind of needs a holster due to it's weight.

Finally, the 642 is my #1 choice for Coat Pocket Carry... also centennial design (internal hammer). With it's internal hammer design, you can fire the gun right through the coat if suddenly and unexpectedly threatened. Many times people don't have the luxury of time to pull a gun out from concealement from a holster... this is where the centennial design pocket carry option RULES!

640_LF2677.jpg


642_R1568.jpg


If I spent much time walking in high risk neighborhoods or areas, I would have a Dick Special or a 640 in an IWB holster and a 642 IN MY HAND in my coat pocket while I walked. In this way no one would ever have any idea that you are armed as you walk along and yet, you can fire instantly in self defense if you are suddenly and unexpectedly threatened at face to face range by a bad guy.
 
DHart is on to an idea. If you want 3" and 6 shots in a small package look for the Colt DS-II. They came in 2, 3 and 4" iterations and are smaller than a K frame. If you want maggies look for the Colt Magnum Carry. Although not plentiful they can be found. I would think this would give you the best of both worlds. Oh, the Magnum Carry actually weighs a couple of ounces less than a steel 60 .357.
 
There is a reason I want DAO. I want a bobbed hammer so there is one less thing that can grab clothing
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FWIW, I know a gentleman who bobbed the hammer on his snubby DA revolver, but did not convert to DAO. When he wants an accurate shot, he will "stage" up his bobbed hammer, grab it on the end with his (strong hand) thumb, and thumb cock it. He can shoot quite accurately that way.

Again, you give up nothing by leaving the revolver in its stock, DA configuration. Just shoot it DA. And use the trivk above if you want to shoot SA.
 
Again, you give up nothing by leaving the revolver in its stock, DA configuration. Just shoot it DA. And use the trivk above if you want to shoot SA.
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The problem here is how to address the safety problem should it accidentally get cocked with no hammer spur to use to thumb the hammer back down. I don't want to carry a cocked revolver around. Converted to DAO the hammer can't inadvertantly get cocked.

Then there is the possibility that you may end up in a defensive situation, cock it for a SA shot, but have the BG give up. Now what, you have a gun that is cocked and ready to go with no way to uncock it.
 
Then there is the possibility that you may end up in a defensive situation, cock it for a SA shot, but have the BG give up. Now what, you have a gun that is cocked and ready to go with no way to uncock it.
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In this EXTREMELY unlikely situation, put your thumb in front of the hammer and pull the trigger to release it slightly. Now take your finger off the trigger and out of the trigger guard, and let the hammer fall. The gun CANNOT fire unless the trigger is completely depressed.
 
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