I was recently pondering which AR forearm grip with flash light would provide the best return for $$. Cheaper than Dirt sent me an ad describing a grip with laser and 250 lumen light for about 75 bucks. 250 lumens seems too small. It would probably work well inside a home but for patrolling my yard, lighting up 50+ yards, this seems too small. Any opinions would be appreciated. I suspect 750+ lumens would be better???
250 lumens"?
- Thread starter tank1949
- Start date
Since you are welcoming any opinions, here's mine. Lights on guns are a bad idea.
Light with a gun, fine. Light ON a gun, bad.
There is lots of discussion, including one in the T&T forum right now.
Essentially, my objection is that with a light on a gun, you will be pointing a (loaded) gun at someone, before you even know who/what that "someone" is.
The "trained operators" argue back that you can see who they are without pointing the light/gun directly at them. And, do they stick to their training, I can see this as true, BUT...
The majority of us are not, and never going to be those kind of "trained operators", and so, there is a significant increase in risk of an accident if you use a weapon mounted light. Just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it.
Rather than "patrolling your yard" with a weapon mounted light, why not just put in tripwires and flares?
Light with a gun, fine. Light ON a gun, bad.
There is lots of discussion, including one in the T&T forum right now.
Essentially, my objection is that with a light on a gun, you will be pointing a (loaded) gun at someone, before you even know who/what that "someone" is.
The "trained operators" argue back that you can see who they are without pointing the light/gun directly at them. And, do they stick to their training, I can see this as true, BUT...
The majority of us are not, and never going to be those kind of "trained operators", and so, there is a significant increase in risk of an accident if you use a weapon mounted light. Just my opinion, and worth what you paid for it.
Rather than "patrolling your yard" with a weapon mounted light, why not just put in tripwires and flares?
Destructo6
New member
If you have a weapon mounted light, you should also carry a handheld light, too. If you light up something that is not a threat, you need to cease using the weapon mounted light (because you're pointing a weapon at something unnecessarily).
If you want some crazy number of lumens, check out the Fenix lights. 960 lumens, small size, and about $80 with a rechargeable pack.
If you want some crazy number of lumens, check out the Fenix lights. 960 lumens, small size, and about $80 with a rechargeable pack.
Double Naught Spy
New member
I don't know what lights y'all use, but my lights are not lasers. I can light up a large area without pointing my gun at somebody. Heck I can light up the whole room with my rifle pointed at the floor or ceiling.
If the light the OP is asking about is really 250 lumens, then 250 lumens is more than adequate for 50+ yards. It wasn't too many years ago people were hunting with 60 and 100 lumen lights (these were billed as being so bright as to be considered 'weapons') out beyond 100 yards.
If the light the OP is asking about is really 250 lumens, then 250 lumens is more than adequate for 50+ yards. It wasn't too many years ago people were hunting with 60 and 100 lumen lights (these were billed as being so bright as to be considered 'weapons') out beyond 100 yards.
scottycoyote
New member
i agree 250 lumens is more than enough for just about any situation you are going to run across.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
My driveway is just about 100 yards long. I have a small, handheld LED flashlight that's rated for either 100 or 120 lumens. It easily reaches out to the end of the driveway and is still providing useful light on the opposite side of the street.tank1949 said:
Do want to light things up, or melt them?
I too, will not put a light ON my weapon.
I keep two lights on my nightstand.
1. A "normal" pen light, probably 35 lumens, to identify and/or see where I'm going. I can point the light and my weapon in different directions. I can also hold the light away from my body when I use it. No beacon for the BG to shoot at.
2. A 500 lumen tactical light. Primary purpose is to blind, stun, or disorient an adversary. I have trained to close my own eyes when I flick the switch.
This light is WAY too bright to be of any use helping me see my way around.
I also have a 65 lumen tactical light that I used a lot in Iraq.
It was more than bright enough to light my way to the "facilities" 50 yards away.
In short:
35 lumen - normal indoors use.
65 lumen - longer outdoor uses.
250 to 500 lumens - To blind or stun temporarily. Too bright to help you see.
I keep two lights on my nightstand.
1. A "normal" pen light, probably 35 lumens, to identify and/or see where I'm going. I can point the light and my weapon in different directions. I can also hold the light away from my body when I use it. No beacon for the BG to shoot at.
2. A 500 lumen tactical light. Primary purpose is to blind, stun, or disorient an adversary. I have trained to close my own eyes when I flick the switch.
This light is WAY too bright to be of any use helping me see my way around.
I also have a 65 lumen tactical light that I used a lot in Iraq.
It was more than bright enough to light my way to the "facilities" 50 yards away.
In short:
35 lumen - normal indoors use.
65 lumen - longer outdoor uses.
250 to 500 lumens - To blind or stun temporarily. Too bright to help you see.
I was alway confused when I saw cops on TV holding flashlights near handguns as they searched areas for bad guys. If I was a bad guy, I'd aim for the light, since the COP is right on the other side. When I was a teenager a cop/friend told me one time that they aleays held maglits out to the side as far as possible and held their hand gun with opposit hand aimed at bad guy. Although this might not be a sturdy as I now see on TV, it does make sense. Obviously, rifles are a differnet situation.
One thing for sure, adding laser, flashlite, fwhand grip, optics etc, sure starts adding weight to a rifle.
One thing for sure, adding laser, flashlite, fwhand grip, optics etc, sure starts adding weight to a rifle.
Destructo6
New member
The old FBI technique. Not my favorite.
There are plenty of ways to perform the various light techniques wrong, which is why you need to practice them with someone else who has a critical eye.
I'll disagree with some here. I like the weapon light. Inside, I want about 100 lumens max.....maybe 60 would be fine. I want to avoid glare coming back at me.
Outside, the issue is flood. I want a 600 lumen light with a big spot and big spill. Don't over think the light bulb ratings....they are highly diffused and have little throw/direction to them.
Outside, the issue is flood. I want a 600 lumen light with a big spot and big spill. Don't over think the light bulb ratings....they are highly diffused and have little throw/direction to them.
You operate the light with a momentary press button. It's much faster than a on/off switch. As you press the button, blink your eyes. Your eyes should close and open in synch with the light.
If you use it outside while walking or in a parking lot, it's not necessary. But if you use 500 lumens in a small room with white walls, it's going to affect you some too.
The gist is you want to blind the other guy, not yourself.
chris in va
New member
It's all in the reflector/optics.
Look at it this way. The average (street legal) automotive bulb is 55 watts. Concentrate that with a good reflector and it'll light up pretty much everything for hundreds of feet.
250 lumens is bright. It should be plenty for your purposes.
Look at it this way. The average (street legal) automotive bulb is 55 watts. Concentrate that with a good reflector and it'll light up pretty much everything for hundreds of feet.
250 lumens is bright. It should be plenty for your purposes.
My "long range" light on my AR is 200 lumens, but with a focused beam. I can ID targets and shoot out past 200 yards without concern.
My light on my pistol is much brighter, 600 lumens, but it throws a much wider beam. If I illuminate both, right next to each other in-doors, the 200 lumen blinds me and the 600 lumen is okay.
Light use is all about practice, dry-fire and live fire to understand the use, utilization, limitations, etc.
A light "on" a weapon (WML) is not a "bad" idea unless you don't know how to use it, same with a light "off" a weapon. So whatever you do, test, train and know what you are doing (plan to the extreme).
So, in answer to your question, it depends. 250 can be enough, too much or just right depending on how that was measured, the reflector design etc. On a long range light, I want less light with a focused beam purely to increase battery life. The higher the actual output, the faster the batteries go.
My light on my pistol is much brighter, 600 lumens, but it throws a much wider beam. If I illuminate both, right next to each other in-doors, the 200 lumen blinds me and the 600 lumen is okay.
Light use is all about practice, dry-fire and live fire to understand the use, utilization, limitations, etc.
A light "on" a weapon (WML) is not a "bad" idea unless you don't know how to use it, same with a light "off" a weapon. So whatever you do, test, train and know what you are doing (plan to the extreme).
So, in answer to your question, it depends. 250 can be enough, too much or just right depending on how that was measured, the reflector design etc. On a long range light, I want less light with a focused beam purely to increase battery life. The higher the actual output, the faster the batteries go.