.223 for whitetail?

D

dayman

New member
Corbon 62gr DPX specifically.

I'd like to hunt with my AR (5.56, 16", 1:7) this year to internally justify what I've spent on it, and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with that load.
Or, any suggestions on something better.

I'd ordered a couple boxes with the intention of using them for hunting, but all the packaging seems geared towards "tactical" uses.
I know the two uses aren't mutually exclusive, but I also know that I have the tendency to click the wrong box when shopping online.


What I want is something reliably lethal out to maybe 150yds, though 75-100 is more likely.

I've been extremely picky about what shots I take and, as a result, thus far I've never needed a second shot, or had to track anything very far.
Most on my neighbors are the same, and it's a trend I'd like to keep going, so I want to make sure I have the best ammunition for the job.

I'm already pretty self conscious about hunting with a semi-auto (particularly one so severely lacking in walnut), so the last thing I want is for all my neighbors to hear multiple shots coming from my side of the woods.
 
I've used the AR15 for deer and hogs for about 15 years... never a lost or wounded animal.

Can't comment on the ammo your cited but the Winchester 64gr Power Point and Speer 64gr Gold Dot have excellent reputations for killing deer with properly placed shots.

My favorite ammo is my own hand loaded stuff using the Speer 70gr Semi Spitzer and 26.0grs of W-748... deadly juju for deer.
 
bonded

No experience with your load, but bamaboy at 11 yrs, killed his first two whitetails with a .223/62 gr bonded "tac" load from Federal in a bolt rifle, 20" bbl. One was a pass through, the other did not, both double lung shots.

The shot that did not exit was very close, as in 2o yds, velocity high, and the bullet expanded much and apparently slowed in doing so. That deer did not leave a blood trail, but went only 30-40 yds, but it was thick and a bit tricky to find in the dark. We have the slug.

The other was shot at 75 yds, bled like a stuck pig and went about 75 yds in open hardwoods.

The trick is what you describe, picking your shots and angles, a cool head and good shooting. We moved to a bigger rifle pretty quick (.243) and now I have to arm wrestle him for the .308, but a .223 will work under the described parameters.
 
I believe that the DPX ammo you are talking about uses the Barnes 62 Grain TSX bullet. I think that is one of the best .224 deer bullets out there, I was torn between the 62 grain and the 55 grain TSX (actually listed in Midway at the time as Tac-X and on clearance no less), I ended up getting the 55 grainers, wanted to move them a little faster as the Barnes all copper bullets seem to thrive on velocity. I have taken a deer with my AR, but at that time used a 60 grain Nosler Partition, internal damage was impressive. Don't worry about multiple shots, I would rather my neighbors hear what sounded like a gun fight than lose a wounded deer from not putting another bullet into them. My experience with the Barnes X bullets in other calibers tends to be fairly consistent, bang, a jump/kick and run, but leaves a blood trail a blind man could follow by feel, leading to a very dead deer within 50 yards. Occasionally got a stumble around then drop version. Not yet recovered an X bullet from a critter.
 
With 1:7 twist you could take advantage of heavier bullets. I'm not exactly a proponent of using .22's on deer, but if I had to, I'd be using a 62-70 grain all copper TSX, or a 70+ grain lead core bullet.

The DPX is a 62 grain TSX so you're good there. The muzzle energy is slightly concerning at 1099ft-lbs. I'm not sure if that's from a carbine (16'') bbl or a rifle (20-24'') but it seems a little on the slow side, to me. That energy will fall off quick, even with 100-150yard shots. That and the fact copper bullets work best at high velocity, could cause potential issues. By 40 yards that bullet will be under 2700FPS and under 1000ft-lbs energy, which is generally considered the minimum impact energy considered adequate for deer. (I know 'energy' is not what directly kills and deer have been taken with less, but it's a factor that shouldn't be overlooked)
By 150 yards, you're under 2400fps and could have serious issues with an all copper bullet expanding enough to be effective.
 
My daughter took a deer last year using 62gr Fed. Fusion.
She made a 71yd shot through both lungs. The deer, a 100lb
White tail doe, dropped where she stood, flopped once and
Expired. The bullet was recovered under the off side hide. It expanded
well mushrooming to about the size of a dime.
We are going to use a 300Blk this year for a little more range
And penetration.
 
Due to my Doctor restricting the recoil I can handle these days, I have switched to a .223 rifle. I use both a single shot, and a Colt HBAR.
The Winchester 64 grain SP bullets I load run around 3000 FPS, and do a through job killing both deer and medium sized hots.
 
Shot placement is all that is necessary for any round the general public finds "underpowered" for hunting. 223 does the kill fine. Just be a good shot.
 
Can a deer be killed with a 223? Absolutely.

Are the odds of a failure due to cartridge choice higher with a 223 than other cartridges? Absolutely.

<...OT commentary deleted...>
 
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Winchester's 64 grain Power Point ammo is designed for the deer hunter. You'll get quick energy transfer and deep penetration thru the vitals on a broadside shot.

Jack
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to scout around and see if I can find something loaded a little hotter, but it seems like what I have should probably work considering most of my shooting lanes are only about 50-75yds.

And I am aware that I'm going to have to be picky about what shots I can take, but I am anyway.
Within the range I'm hunting I should have no trouble putting a shoot through the lungs - which has been my modus operandi with the 30-30 as well.
And, if I need a second shot I'll absolutely take it. I just want to make sure I'm using something effective enough that a second shot shouldn't be necessary if I do my part.

By next year I intend to have a reloading set up, so it won't be an issue.
 
One year I put a 6.8 barrel together and did not want to reload. The 6.8 was kind of new and I ended up buying "Police" ammo in a black box. The brand escapes my memory right now, but it put a hole through the lung area of a deer that looked as if a softball was thrown through. I would stay away from this kind of ammo. I think it is designed to blow up so it does not keep going through into and through walls. I would guess poor penetration on something solid.
 
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