.22 receiver removal

G

gmckinney626

Inactive
In this particular job, I am trying to get a round .22 style receiver off a barrel to rebarrel at the owner's request. I know, I know, reline not rebarrel. Unfortunately, he had already purchased another barrel and didn't bite. Surface damage is not an issue, as I am restoring the gun for him. This is a Winchester 74, however, it should be applicable to most .22rf. I have the barreled action mounted in a barrel vise and fabbed a bushing to mount in one of my action wrenches for a Savage 110 that is slightly undersized to the dimensions on his receiver. I have as much torque as all 250lb of me can add to both the barrel vise and the action wrench. Righty tighty, lefty loosy. It won't budge. I have heated it. Won't budge. Any suggestions on something other than a $400 parmelee wrench?
 
By looking at the parts drawing, it doesn't show the barrel being pinned or a screw in the bottom. It will be tomorrow before I can pull my service manual, however, I don't know if a 74 has a full manual on it. If it does, I'll see what it says about the barrel.

I'd try letting it set overnight, muzzle down, with some penetrating fluid applied from inside the receiver, to allow it to run into the threads.
 
From what I have seen, some where threaded and some were pressed and pinned.

Like a few other manufacturers in the same era, Winchester was really good at blending the pins, as well. So, it can be quite difficult to distinguish a pinned barrel from a threaded barrel, unless threads are visible.

Pull out the 10x loupe and take a closer look.
 
I don't have a full service manual on the 74, but do have a more clear parts drawing, which shows the barrel to be threaded. It shows no pin, etc., either.
 
Tapered means the barrel is tapered, with the large rear thinning down to a smaller muzzle end. IIRC, the Model 74 barrels are threaded and that is what I see in the schematics.

Jim
 
It is threaded, which is why this is killing me. I have put some serious torque into the receiver. I have gotten Mosin barrels off with less effort. Didn't know if anyone had any new ideas.
 
My guess is you'll end up having to use a long breaker bar to get it started, but holding the receiver where it wont get warped, will be the problem.

Worst comes to worst, put it in a lathe, part off the old barrel at the threads, and bore it, so you can try to pick up the threads, and chase out the remainder. Bore it to a little more than the root diameter of the barrel thread, and that should expose them, so you can set up the lathe to chase it. There's a possibility of picking the old out, with a hook, after that.
 
Soak, soak, soak, and vibrate the bejesus out of it?


I know it's a bit of a different situation, but...
That has been the cure for a few screws that I've attacked, over the years. One notable incident involved a ridiculously stubborn rear top strap screw on a Buckmark that hadn't been taken apart in at least 10 years, and was put back together without the crush washers.

I soaked it for about 3 weeks, and tried removing it, here and there - doing my best to keep the screw from getting even more buggered than when I received it.
Couldn't get the screw to budge, no matter what.
Through coincidence, I ended up with an 'industrial strength' back massager and the Buckmark in my hands, at the same time.
I took the soft head off of the massager, clamped the metal shaft to the Buckmark frame, and let that thing run for about 45 minutes, while re-applying penetrating oil and tapping a screwdriver in the slotted screw.

With one of the taps, it just let go. :D


(And was promptly replaced with the newer style socket head screw and a new crush washer.)
 
Try cutting a relief groove in the barrel just in front of the shoulder on the lathe, then adding some more penetrating oil and waiting.

Jimro
 
Soak, soak, soak, and vibrate the bejesus out of it?
Click to expand...

I do not have the confidence shared by all when it comes to doing it 'the easy way'. I have used Marvel Mystery Oil, WD-40, automatic transmission fluid (F&D ETC.). I have been soaking 3 10 inch lathe chucks I could not afford. All three cost me $30.00. I started soaking them 4 years ago, finally I did it the old fashion way. During soaking nothing got easy and I received no benefit, my resource people told me I was not hammering hard enough.

F. Guffey
 
I was pulling the barrels off dozens of old Mausers from Century.
I would show guys how nothing worked, and then I would put Kroil on the rusted threads and wait 5 minutes. Then the barrel would come off.
It might have just been the straw that broke the camel's back, but the demonstration was so dramatic that every guy that saw it went out and bought Kroil.
 
The relief groove is probably the best idea when the barrel is beyond future use. It was a common practice when removing barrels from Model 1917 Enfields.

Jim
 
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