2-Piece barrels used by S&W info ?

W

WIN1886

New member
Does anybody know what S&W models are using the 2-Piece barrels ? I'm thinking of getting a Model 29-10 w 4" barrel at a very reasonable price but would like to know differences compared to my model 29-2 ! I know about the lock and use of mim parts but what else ? I'm not saying newer or different technology is a bad thing just like to know more about what your getting ! Thanks !
 
Besides the re-intro 66, I'm not sure what else currently (they dropped a couple), but to the best of my knowledge they've never two-pieced a .44 Mag.
Denis
 
I have a 4" 620 (357mag) that has the sleeved barrel. Shoots fine, and Ive never had any issues with it.
 
Asides from the Model 620 and the Model "66 Redux", IIRC S&W has also "two-pieced" the Model 67 (K frame .38Spl), the new Model 69 (L frame 5-shot .44Mag), and various scandium-alloy-frame "Night Guard", "AirLite", "AirLite PD", "Sc/S", and "M&P" models.

DPris, S&W has "two-pieced" various scandium-frame .44's- namely the Model 329PD. However, other than the new M69, I'm not aware of another steel-frame S&W .44 with a 2-piece barrel. AFAIK no Model 29's or 629's have one.
 
Thanks.
Basically I was trying to say a 29 should be solid. :)
Have not followed the fringe .44 Mags. :)
Denis
 
Two-piece barrels are actually three pieces. Dan Wesson invented this system, I think. Here's how it works:

The "core" barrel is the part that has actual rifling. It is screwed into the frame to the right depth hand-tight. The outer sleeve (the visible exterior part) is then compressed backwards towards the frame by a nut at the muzzle end. This nut screws onto threads on the core barrel, "stretching" the barrel forward.

In a conventional one-piece barrel the barrel is screwed in tight to the frame which can create a "compression ring" at the inside of the barrel where it screws into the frame. This "tight spot" has a negative effect on accuracy. A multi-part "stretched" barrel avoids this issue and there is an increase in average accuracy.

When I re-barreled my Ruger NewVaq as a true .355" 9mm I used a multi-part barrel. I made the barrel compression nut myself, externally threaded the core barrel on both ends and used a section of solid stainless steel handlebar from a 1982 Honda CB900c as the external sleeve! Works great, and is likely one of the few Rugers in service with a multi-part barrel. (In my case the barrel nut is the base for a combination gas trap and front sight mount that goes over the barrel nut. The gas trap is used to tap muzzle gas for the automatic shell ejector which in turn allowed a magazine feed mod :D.)

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511297
 
Jim March said:
Two-piece barrels are actually three pieces...

The "core" barrel is the part that has actual rifling. It is screwed into the frame to the right depth hand-tight. The outer sleeve (the visible exterior part) is then compressed backwards towards the frame by a nut at the muzzle end. This nut screws onto threads on the core barrel, "stretching" the barrel forward.
Click to expand...


Here's my understanding: There are 2 pieces. The outer shroud is put in place, then the inner barrel screwed into the frame. The muzzle end of the barrel isn't threaded and doesn't use a nut. Instead, the muzzle end of the barrel forms a "T" or ring that covers the muzzle end of the shroud. When fully screwed in, the shroud is compressed. The barrel is tightened by inserting a tight-fitting mandrel into the barrel which engages the rifling. That's why removal of the barrel is a factory-only deal.
 
Mr has it.
On the Smith system, barrel shroud & the inner actual barrel "tube" with an integral flange at the muzzle.
No barrel nut on the Smiths.
Denis
 
Asides from the Model 620 and the Model "66 Redux", IIRC S&W has also "two-pieced" the Model 67 (K frame .38Spl)
Click to expand...
Actually, there doesn't appear to be anything new about the 66 models. The last runs of them back in 2002-2004 had the two-piece barrels.
 
Nope, that's one complaint about the Smith system- it ain't user-serviceable. :)

Unless you have the tool that grabs the inside of the barrel, you can't get it off for any barrel work.
Last I'd heard, S&W was not making that tool available to gunsmiths.
Denis
 
So, how in all of this new engineering did we do away with the cut flat on the forcing cone of the "New" model 66? That was more a function of the clearance of the crane and the forcing cone. Yes?
 
So, how in all of this new engineering did we do away with the cut flat on the forcing cone of the "New" model 66?
Click to expand...
They made the L-Frames.

There's simply not enough space on the K-Frame frame. You're always going to have the same cut on the bottom of the forcing cone. I'm not sure what "new engineering" they've actually done on the 66, if any.
 
Tom Servo
...

They made the L-Frames.

There's simply not enough space on the K-Frame frame. You're always going to have the same cut on the bottom of the forcing cone. I'm not sure what "new engineering" they've actually done on the 66, if any.
Click to expand...

Well Tom, that is what I was wondering about. Then BillCA in CA (Unfortunately) went on to say, in a discussion about his Model 66-7 (with a two piece barrel)...

The other reason is that by going to this construction, along with frame changes, they have eliminated the "flat cut" under the barrel. With the 2-piece barrel, there is no need for the cut because the barrel tube is thinner than the original. This will (should?) eliminate problems with frame cracks under the forcing cone.
Click to expand...

See the complete post here...

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5734849&postcount=37

So I'm trying to determine, without a new two piece barrel gun in front of me, is does the new barrel design eliminate the cut flat on the forcing cone or not?

I'm just going to have track down one of the new guns and find out. I'll report back sometime in the future.
 
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