Looking at refinishing my 1956 Browning A5. Does anyone know what type of finish was used ? It's not in bad shape but has a couple of dents and dings to sand out and raise with some steam. Some of the newer A5's had like a poly sprayed on finish, but this appears to be a oil finish. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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1956 Browning stock finish question
- Thread starter fjnida
- Start date
jaguarxk120
New member
At 62 years old the remaining finish could look like anything.
Chances are it is/was a varnish type of finish. you can use a Minwax
spray poly finish that will hold up for another 62 years, It won't hide the grain of that walnut.
Chances are it is/was a varnish type of finish. you can use a Minwax
spray poly finish that will hold up for another 62 years, It won't hide the grain of that walnut.
I have 2 A5s that have been refinished. One was my dads and is a true FN Belgian that came out of WW2 as a bring home. The finish was like some kind of shellac or varnish. Dad
stripped it and finished it with Linseed. That was in 50s and it still looks good. The other is
a Light 12 from 50s and it had some kind of varnish finish. I used linseed on it too and it's been in good shape for 40yrs.
stripped it and finished it with Linseed. That was in 50s and it still looks good. The other is
a Light 12 from 50s and it had some kind of varnish finish. I used linseed on it too and it's been in good shape for 40yrs.
Spray poly finish belongs on cheap furniture, not firearms.
It is alleged that Browning used a fomula called French Polish, a combination of shellac and oil, prior to 1961ish. Discussed at length here. Pretty decent discussion too.
https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=71482
If you're going to refinish the thing, you should remove the exiting finish entirely. If there's any plastic(polyurethane is plastic.) on it, steaming will not work. Polyurethane will dissolve in alcohol mixed equally with lacquer thinner. Otherwise it gets deep into the pores of the wood.
Pure Tung Oil, not Tung Oil finish by Minwax, gives a hard, waterproof finish that keeps every thing else out andbrings out the grain nicely. So any stain must go on first.
It is alleged that Browning used a fomula called French Polish, a combination of shellac and oil, prior to 1961ish. Discussed at length here. Pretty decent discussion too.
https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=71482
If you're going to refinish the thing, you should remove the exiting finish entirely. If there's any plastic(polyurethane is plastic.) on it, steaming will not work. Polyurethane will dissolve in alcohol mixed equally with lacquer thinner. Otherwise it gets deep into the pores of the wood.
Pure Tung Oil, not Tung Oil finish by Minwax, gives a hard, waterproof finish that keeps every thing else out andbrings out the grain nicely. So any stain must go on first.
Raise the dents with steam first, sand sparingly using a sanding block. Any wood you remove by sanding cannot be replaced and will cause the wood to fit poorly if taken too far. Strip with chemical stripper, then sand with 400 grit on a sanding block, proceed to 600 grit, whisker, then let dry before applying finish.It's not in bad shape but has a couple of dents and dings to sand out and raise with some steam.
That is my understanding as well. That would make it similar to Tru-Oil or LinSpeed stock finish. If you do not want a shiny finish on the stocks, wet sand with finish to fill the grain, sand between coats with 800 grit on a sanding block, then use bronze wool on the last coat to knock down the gloss.It is alleged that Browning used a fomula called French Polish, a combination of shellac and oil, prior to 1961ish.