1917 Enfield continued

WayneinMaine

Inactive
Many of you may remember my posts regarding the 3 1917 Enfields with which I've been playing. A gunsmith said #2 had dangerously excessive headspace and started racking up the expenses. I got the sense he was incompetent and brought the gun home (250 miles one way). I bought a Forster field gauge and the bolt would not close on it, with the barrel screwed in hand tight. He has refused a refund saying that I must have swapped bolts or something, or that the rifle somehow fixed itself. I actually have that in writing.

Anyway I bought #3 while I was dropping #2 off. Rested, at 25 yards, it shot a 6-inch group while marching steadily back through the stock. It would not pass a field gauge but I had 3 partial case-head separations out of 8 rounds. I used reloads previously fired in #1, which has more headspace than either #2 or #3 (#1 almost closes on the field gauge yet is accurate and I get multiple reloads per case) The cases were super thin but separation wasn't obvious until I was inspecting the cases for reloading. The cases seem to be separating in exactly the same place, on one side of the case only, and one of the bolt lugs has pitting that I initially mistook for grinding marks, and I doubt it's contacting the receiver.

Now the question: I'm planning on re-barreling in .308 with a short chambered drop-in from Criterion barrels. I just picked up a lathe and was thinking of blueprinting the action. and turning down the back of the bolt lugs on the lathe a bit to true them up. I'd like to retain the old .30-06 barrel but don't have any experience threading, especially with square threads. To keep the "timing", would there be an problem with turning the shoulder back the distance of one thread and down to minor thread diameter, so a small portion of the shank nearest the shoulder has no threads at all? Then I could re-chamber and would maybe have to reface the chamber area and extractor groove. I'll probably get a spare bolt body just in case, or I'll test it with one of my other bolts if it headspaces ok.
 
Rule of thumb for barrel threads, at least three full turns. If you have that after cutting one complete thread off and setting back the shoulder you should be fine.

Jimro
 
I would not try and "true" the lugs on the bolt because they have a 2 degree cant on them which matches a 2 degree cant on the integral lugs in the action. This feature is one of the best part about the M1917's, and allows you only neck size brass it's entire life if you want. By the time you true everything up, your bolt is going to be back farther than you want it to which may or may not cause problems with the sear/trigger mechanism. It will also most likely cause the bolt to hit the block in front of the safety, or the "third lug".

your best bet with the 1917's is to lap the lugs to achieve full contact. I acutally just put on a Criterion barrel on a 17 a few hours ago. Drop in... well ever 1917 action I have done, and most actions for that matter are different. The one I did tonight I turned the shoulder on the barrel down .002" to time on the action. The barrel was a OEM style military barrel. They come with a witness mark which on this rifle when timed to the action was spot on with everything except the headspace. Being that I took .002" off the shoulder of the barrel, I had to lengthen the chamber by that amount. Fit very well, all in all, it was a simple swap, but not "bolt on".

I've done up a lot of 17 enfields in both military and custom configurations. It seems that lapping them is the best way to go. I have also trued up the front receiver ring on the lathe, however, it seems that my rifles done with no work, shoot just as well as the ones I put all the extra effort into. The customs all have Harts, Kreigers Rock Creek, etc... and all shoot 1/2 MOA out a long ways 95% of the time.

I have not been able to shoot the 17 with the CBI barrel yet, but I know their target and sporter barrels do extremely well, so I expect similar results out of their military versions.
 
Back
Top