1911A1 grip safety question

D

DW Altom

Inactive
Dumb question #32A:
I've a Springfield Armory 1911A1 which shoots accurately and reliably. I bought it with the intention of keeping it pretty "GI stock," meaning, I just wanted a military-style 1911 for plinking, secondary home defense and backup to my Kimber Pro-Carry when I take training classes. In my old UM-84 holster it goes great with my M1A Bush gun and I have flashbacks of MP school (back when it was at Ft. Gordon) whenever I take it to the range.

Anyway, with an eye on keeping it as stock as possible, I did change out the curved mainspring housing for a flat and the short trigger for a long. The only other thing I planned on doing to it was blacking out the white dots on the rear sights and maybe a nice greenish-gray parkerizing or Birdsong finish. Just a basic gun for getting "back to the basics."

However ...

The damned grip safety is a hazard. Maybe it's me, but the pistol just won't shoot unless I have it gripped "just so," and that just doesn't cut it. Maybe I'm spoiled by my Kimber, which shoots every time I pull the trigger, no matter how I grip it, high thumb, low thumb, whatever. I don't wanna pin it, but the darned thing is a distraction and makes training tedious. I shouldn't have to think about grip safeties when I'm practicing failure drills and hammers.

Long story short: Does anybody make a grip safety that looks stock but actuates more positively? I just want it to work more reliably.

For what it's worth, my local 'smith, bless his soul, likes to recommend beaver-tails and welding high-speed thingamabobs on this and that. When I told him my problem ("Keep it simple, please?") he blinked and shook his head and smoke came out of his ears.

Surely there's a practical solution.

Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
If you know how, the grip safety is very easy to adjust so that it will disengage with just a small amount of pressure. It's done by trimming the internal trigger block tab in the right places. I won't dare tell you how to do it here, but any gunsmith worth his paycheck who knows 1911s should be able to do it.
 
I have the same problem on almost all 1911's. ACtually my problem is usually when thumb is high. The most reliable configuration with my hand ergonomics is stock. Small thumb safety and no beaver tail - no speed bump memory groove grud. Modifying or deactivating this safety is easy but I seariously DON'T recommend this for liability reasons. You'll want to survive court after you survive a deadly encounter.
 
Training is tedious. If you can't remember to hold your Mil-Spec 1911 so that the grip safety is depressed ina safe training environment, God help you when TSHTF.

You have a few options:

  • Spend more time training with the Mil-Spec gun
  • Build up the bottom portion of the stock grip safety
  • Install a drop-in beavertail and "Commander" style hammer
  • Sell the Mil-Spec gun and buy another Kimber

If you don't like these options, there will be others posted in short order.
 
If you have a friend with a wire welder, have him add about 1/16" or so to the back of the grip safety, and then grind/file/polish so it's once again nice and purty.

:), Art
 
If you purchase a new grip safety from, for example, Wilsons, the internal trigger block tab will be a bit long and it will require adjustment with a very small file.

The total adjustment on a working grip safety will be less than a 32nd of an inch.

More like a very slight polishing than an actual removal of material. You may very well be able to smooth out the function with a piece of 600 grit or wet sand paper.

The difference between smooth and too smooth is very small.

I recommend you take it to your smith unless you have done it before.

However, adding metal to the backside of the grip safety is not the way to go. Just get the internal piece adjusted so that it works smoother.
 
Trimming a bit on the bottom of the grip safety "finger" is easy, but go slowly. Remove the hammer, three leaf spring, sear and disconnector, leaving only the grip safety. Observe the way the grip safety blocks the back of the trigger bow. (On the standard M1911 type, this is all it does.) You will see that the safety has to be fully depressed before it will allow the trigger to come back. Carefully, with repeated fitting, remove just enough metal (a bit of stoning may be enough) from the bottom of that finger to allow the trigger to function with the grip safety a tiny bit less than fully depressed.

Note: If the grip safety is not properly fitted to the frame and the safety catch, do not attempt to do any work on it. If it wiggles, or if there is play at the safety, it is defective and will not work consistently. Check for the defect and correct it or have it corrected.

Jim
 
I would recommend Jim Keenan's approach. As he said, FIRST make sure the safety is tight and does not wiggle side to side. If that checks out, then go to stoning a RCH off the lower edge (it's slightly pointed) of the tab. Then try for function, remove a bit more, try, until it works.
 
Why can't you put on a beavertail safety like on your Kimber, then trim off the beavertail up top? Seems like it would be the easiest fix for a do-it-yourselfer.
 
Hi, Danny,

You will probably have to fit the new grip safety anyway, they are rarely drop in parts. If you pay money for a beavertail, why not use it. Some are way overdone and look like (probably are) a product of some "Hollywood" imagination. But a well designed and made beavertail can add to both comfort and control when shooting.

Jim
 
Hi Jim,
How are you? Yes, I agree, I love the beavertails on my Kimbers. I've never had them fail me and they aren't too radical looking. I was just thinking the bottom part of a beavertail may be easier for him to engage, and trimming off the top part would give him the look he wants. Probably a bad idea anyway.

Take care of yourself!!!
 
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