1911 tolerances.

Y

yankytrash

New member
On the Handloading forum, a user brought a couple things to my attention about my Norinco 1911A1.

Specifically, I was told, before I should expect too much accuracy from my handloads, that I should check the tolerances of the barrel bushing and the slide/frame slop.

My barrel bushing is new, and is also a muzzle brake (unknown origin - it was on the pistol when I bought it). The measurements between the two diameters is only .0005-.001". When locking it and unlocking it, I have to break out a pair of pliers.

The frame/slide slop is .006" up/down and .003" left/right.

In your opinions, are these acceptable tolerances? Is having to use pliers to remove the brake a good thing or a bad thing?

Or, is this even enough information to get an idea of the potential accuracy of my 1911? If not, what else can I check?
 
I'd get a bushing wrench and not use pliers to remove the bushing. Not as much chance to bugger up things. I'd say that things are pretty tight and it should shoot well. Only testing will tell.
 
Anybody got a link to, or a picture of, a bushing wrench?

Thus far, the pliers work alright. I made a wooden barrel vise type of dohicky to snatch on the muzzle brake with, the same type of thing you'd use to time a barrel on a rifle.

But you're right - if there's the right tool for the job out there, I better get me one. When this brake wears out, I plan to put a reguler or match-grade bushing in it's place, with no brake. No brake means no pliers.
 
Oh, by the way, how would one go about swagging the rails? Is this only to be done by a pistol expert, or is this something I, a decent homesmith (but not an expert by any means...), can handle?
 
the proof is in the shooting

Shoot it with a variety of ammo and let it tell you how accurate it is or isn't. Sometimes they will pleasantly surprise or disappoint you.
 
I'd leave the rails alone. They sound about right and if you get em down toward zero clearance a little bit of dust or crud can screw up operation.

Shoot it a bunch and give it a chance to get to know you. Might be just fine as is.

Sam
 
Measurements....

I've never measured a thing on either of my Norinco 1911A1's and I can shoot 1-2 hole groups at 15 yards with both of them, and my uncle has one that is just as accurate, the others are right, just shoot it and go from there.....any pics of the muzzle break? i was thinking about one for mine....
 
yanky,
Don't sweat the slide-frame fit, that's way overrated. Accuracy comes from the bushing in the front and the barrel lug-slide lock-up in the rear. The bushing you've got may be tight but it's probably not match. That big chunk of steel out in front might reduce muzzle rise and recoil, but that doesn't mean it aids accuracy. Good luck.
 
Here ya go, strange:

1911.jpg
 
Try holding the slide back 1/2" or so from full lockup. Depending on how the bushing is fitted, this is sometimes enough to loosen things up and allow the bushing to be turned without any tools.
 
As far as the combination muzzle brake/barrel bushing is concerned, I know Wilson Combat used to make one...don't know if they still do...also, I think King's made one at one time, and maybe Fed Ord--or somebody like that--shouldn't be too hard to find....mikey357
 
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