I am having trouble with my Kimber TII SS in 9mm. Feeds and ejects fine but wont stay open after last round. I have tried both my stock and wilson mags same issue. I am replaceing the slide lock with a Wilson and at the same time I would like to replace the recoil spring. Its over 2000 rnds now. I am shooting relatively light loads, 125gr RNL over 4.2gr of HP-38. At any point im not sure what LB spring to use. I would guess the #8, but I would rather know. Any help, please?
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1911 Springs
- Thread starter BoogieMan
- Start date
g.willikers
New member
From the horse's, er, Wolf Springs, mouth:
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=32
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=32
I think your problem may be that you are shooting a target load and the standard recoil spring is too stiff to let the slide go quite all the way to the rear. The normal practice for target shooting is to go 2 lb to 4 lb under standard size. In .45 Auto, the standard size is 16 lb for a 5" gun, so 12 lb or 14 lb for target loads. The Goldcup comes with a 14 lb spring, for example. So you may want a 10 lb or a 12 lb for target work in the 9 mm. You can get good springs all the way down to 8 lb from Sprinco. I've dealt with Alan several times before, and it went well except when he was out with Rocky Mountain spotted fever once about ten years ago, which added several weeks delay. I expect he'll not get that again.
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You can feel quite clearly when the spring starts letting the slide get all the way back. Short of that, recoil is spongy. When slide starts tapping the frame, a discernible element of sharpness is added to the feel. You may be able to get normal function just short of that, the same way a recoil buffer pad shortens the slide movement a little without preventing proper function. But you do need to make your ammo very consistent for that to work reliably.
Im new to reloading and I dont want to rely on my loads to functiont the pistol correctly. I ordered the #14 wolf progresive spring. I also ordered a wilson slide lock. After a little more shooting with factory loads and switching between mags I still have the last round lock issue. Should have parts monday. Also got rid of that plastic backstrap spring cover.
If this doesnt work I will grab a #13,#12, #11 and see if dropping back #1 at a time I can cure my problem.
If this doesnt work I will grab a #13,#12, #11 and see if dropping back #1 at a time I can cure my problem.
If the factory rounds wouldn't lock you back, then it seems unlikely to be a recoil spring issue. I based the spring assumption on the load you published. Usually it's magazines that cause this, but if different mags didn't do it with commercial ammo, either, then the slide stop may be the issue.
Check that the tip of the plunger (in that little horizontal tube at the top of the left grip panel) that bears against the slide stop is rounded and smooth and not chipped or scored. I would look for roughness on the end of the slide stop lever paddle that the plunger bears against. I would smooth and polish any roughness on either one and put a dab of moly gun grease on the end of the lever. I would check the smoothness and lubrication of the slide stop assembly pin and the hole it goes through in the barrel link. Again, put a good grease or lube on that pin. Polish it if you need to. Since you have a new part coming, there is no reason not to try bringing out the old Dremel tool and polishing tools to see what they can do for you on that lever paddle end and the pin. May as well make it a learning opportunity.
Check that the tip of the plunger (in that little horizontal tube at the top of the left grip panel) that bears against the slide stop is rounded and smooth and not chipped or scored. I would look for roughness on the end of the slide stop lever paddle that the plunger bears against. I would smooth and polish any roughness on either one and put a dab of moly gun grease on the end of the lever. I would check the smoothness and lubrication of the slide stop assembly pin and the hole it goes through in the barrel link. Again, put a good grease or lube on that pin. Polish it if you need to. Since you have a new part coming, there is no reason not to try bringing out the old Dremel tool and polishing tools to see what they can do for you on that lever paddle end and the pin. May as well make it a learning opportunity.
Unclenick@ thanks for the tip about the tip. I never even considered the plunger tip. I will check it now. Along with the edge of the slide stop that rides on the plunger. Either way I will still change the slide stop for asthetic purposes. I ordered blued parts to go on a SS Kimber. I just l;ike the mixed bag look.