1911 slide stop/lock question

D

Dust Monkey

New member
picked up a used 70 series sunday. Not bad in looks. Took it to the range today, shot like a 70 series would, perfect. Except that when the slide locked back after a shot mag, you put in a full mag and push it home the slide falls and loads a round. Now as good as that may be, I know it's not supposed to do that. It did not happen all the time, but happened with each mag, and happened enough to concern me.

What is the problem? Slide stop? Recoil spring?

I was planning to change the recoil spring with a new one, because I have no knowledge of how many rounds the current spring has seen.


Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Also, looking at the slide notch where the slide stop goes up in to, the notch is rounded a little on the rear side where the slide stop would catch it.
 
"Except that when the slide locked back after a shot mag, you put in a full mag and push it home the slide falls and loads a round."

Could you explain this in a little more detail? You are inserting a loaded mag, and "push it home" refers to the mag? Or the slide stop?
 
slide stop

Sir;
It sounds like someone has shot that pistol "dry" quite a bit. One might try to carefully "peen" that notch back otherwise it's going to take some ski;led gunsmithing on the slide stop and the notch in your slide. Possibly changing the slide stop might help some.
Harry B.
 
when I insert a loaded mag, slide locked back, the slide releases on it's own this loading a round.

I will try changing the slide stop.
 
This will also happen:

1) with magazines that have had their follower tweaked or built out of spec.

2) if a wrong-caliber aftermarket slide stop has been installed.

It could well be the gun's slide stop, but did you try it with a different mag? If it does it with various brand/type of mags, then investigate the slide stop. The gold standard is if it works with a Wilson magazine.

.38 Super/9mm/.40/10mm slide stops are different dimensionally on the inside than the .45acp. If your slide stop is original, then it rules that out. But if it's not original, compare it's internal stop to that of another .45acp to see if it is oversize in comparison.

More than likely, it is because of the conditions described already - but these are also worth knowing if that doesn't cure it.
 
I will test it again tomorrow with an assortment of mags, including Wilson combat and tripps research. If it still gives the problem I will order an we brown slide stop. Need to order a barrel gushing anyways because this one has the collet bushing and I have heard and read that those can be trouble. Damned accurate with it.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
Need to order a barrel gushing anyways because this one has the collet bushing and I have heard and read that those can be trouble. Damned accurate with it.
Click to expand...

Before you go down this road, I'd give it some more thought. Not telling you "no, don't do that," just think about a few things:

1) As you noted, the collet bushing is accurate. Here's some discussion of that:

http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/history/s70_colts.htm

2) The factory used them for 17 years without seeing a big problem - they changed to solid ones when they had better CNC machinery that could fit barrels and (cheaper) solid bushings for acceptable accuracy w/o hand fitting - it was a cost issue, not reliability issue.

3) Some have been reported to fail, but they were few and reportedly because of, according to Kuhnhausen, 10% of the time poor fitting at the factory, and 90% of the time amatuer messing with them afterwards. Again the operating word was "few." If one has made it this far, it sounds unlikely to be an issue going forward. I would reference Kuhnhausen on this issue.

4) Series 70 barrels are built for the collet bushing, and have a different taper on the end. Some careful selection must be used to get a bushing that will fit them "drop in" without extra fitting. Also, the longer they have worked with the collet, the more they groove for it, and the less material is there for a subsequent "drop in" to work with.

I have a series 70 still with the collet. The only modification is a full length Dwyer group gripper. It is very accurate, smooth, reliable, and loads all ammo types. It is the best 1911 I have next to a very high-end custom Caspian that costs four times more. On a bang-for-buck basis, a stock series 70 is a good thing. Just add a Group Gripper and don't look back is my attitude now.

I point all this out as, after decades of experience with these guns, I've learned that messing with what works is usually in the long run a loosing proposition. Also, if your Colt is stock or near stock, it will wreck the collector value of it.

This isn't the be-all, end-all of your application. Your needs may dictate the change. But think it all the way through and not just act on internet gossip.
 
Thank you Bob for the time you gave out of your day to help me find out what is the problem with the Colt. I will get with you next week on sending that SA 10mm linkless to you..


Thanks again..
 
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