Where would be some places I could look to find the cause of a 1911 slide not locking into battery smoothly? It locks OK during limited test firing, but when I cycle the slide by hand it seems to hit a "bump" about half an inch from full closure and stops. I can palm the rear end to get it to go all the way, but I think this should be much smoother and it should lock even when hand cycling. It is something internal, nothing obvious externally, and no magazine is involved (also no cartridge - empty chamber).
1911 slide doesn't lock forward smoothly
- Thread starter yggorf
- Start date
That last 1/2 in on a 1911 has a number if things going on.
If you want to understand it,a Kunhausen gunsmith manual on the 1911,or maybe his wall chart on the function of a 1911 will help.
It could be as simple as it is a good,tight lockup,with the lugs under the bbl bearing snuggly against the slide stop.It could be interference between the underlug contour and the slide stop.The hood could be a bit long or wide,you may be feeling the disconnect and slide,the barrel bushing may be binding,and there are more.Is there a 1911 guy around?
If you want to understand it,a Kunhausen gunsmith manual on the 1911,or maybe his wall chart on the function of a 1911 will help.
It could be as simple as it is a good,tight lockup,with the lugs under the bbl bearing snuggly against the slide stop.It could be interference between the underlug contour and the slide stop.The hood could be a bit long or wide,you may be feeling the disconnect and slide,the barrel bushing may be binding,and there are more.Is there a 1911 guy around?
The 1911 guy in the area is booked through spring, so I think I need to figure this out on my own (well, with The Firing Line's help).
The barrel to slide lockup seems proper and tight. There is no bushing on this gun, it uses a reverse plug and bull barrel. (It is the type where you need a little paper clip like thing to stick in the recoil spring guide to disassemble.)
The barrel to slide lockup seems proper and tight. There is no bushing on this gun, it uses a reverse plug and bull barrel. (It is the type where you need a little paper clip like thing to stick in the recoil spring guide to disassemble.)
I suspected as much.
Chances are, it's the Kimber firing pin safety - they tend to be stiff when new and sometimes the plunger face isn't quite as well polished as it could be. Take the slide off the frame and drip some good oil down the sides of the FP safety plunger. When you put the slide back on, make sure that the plunger bottom is wet with oil. Better yet - smear some grease on it.
It'll smooth out with use.
Well, unfortunately it is worse than that. As I was working the oil down in around the pins, I noticed the ejector was quite lose, it moves about 1/16" up and down. I assume it is supposed to be rock solid, so it looks like another trip back to Yonkers for this poor gun. (3rd time).
Another wonderful Kimber QC example.
I would suspect the ejector is/was Loctited in place. They should be pinned.
I have seen some pretty shady things on the "K" mart brand of pistols:barf:
Typically the things I look for on a 1911 that is having issues on going into battery is:
1-Link length
2-Barrel lug engagement to slide
3-Barrel hood length
4-Bushing fit
5-Disconnector working smoothly and correct length.
6-Firing pin stop overhang
7-Recoil spring bind
8-Slide to frame fit
9-Disconnector groove in slide
They all can cause a slide to hang up.
Yes- But should you really HAVE to on a $1K + pistol?
I would suspect the ejector is/was Loctited in place. They should be pinned.
I have seen some pretty shady things on the "K" mart brand of pistols:barf:
Typically the things I look for on a 1911 that is having issues on going into battery is:
1-Link length
2-Barrel lug engagement to slide
3-Barrel hood length
4-Bushing fit
5-Disconnector working smoothly and correct length.
6-Firing pin stop overhang
7-Recoil spring bind
8-Slide to frame fit
9-Disconnector groove in slide
They all can cause a slide to hang up.
Yes- But should you really HAVE to on a $1K + pistol?
Let's not editorialize unnecessarily. Most all of my Kimbers (excepting the Aegis) cost me $750 or so - less than my Colts or my Springfields. More to the point, not one of my Springers worked correctly out of the box... That doesn't mean that I have to go around demeaning the product, does it?
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Back from Kimber - ejector still loose
Well, I sent the pistol back to Kimber after calling and explaining the loose ejector problem, and including a note in the box with the same concern. I got it back today, and guess what -- they didn't touch the ejector! It is still just as loose. The technician notes say they polished the barrel hood and chamber, and replaced the plunger spring, and the notes also include a statement that my complaint was a loose ejector, but they still didn't tighten it!
I called in and spoke to someone at Kimber who said "Alot of gunsmiths and competitors these days like a loose ejector -- even if it is not pinned in place the slide would hold it in." Is this true? Basically, they say the loose ejector meets their specs and doesn't need to be fixed. Do ejectors need to be rock solid or not?
Well, I sent the pistol back to Kimber after calling and explaining the loose ejector problem, and including a note in the box with the same concern. I got it back today, and guess what -- they didn't touch the ejector! It is still just as loose. The technician notes say they polished the barrel hood and chamber, and replaced the plunger spring, and the notes also include a statement that my complaint was a loose ejector, but they still didn't tighten it!
I called in and spoke to someone at Kimber who said "Alot of gunsmiths and competitors these days like a loose ejector -- even if it is not pinned in place the slide would hold it in." Is this true? Basically, they say the loose ejector meets their specs and doesn't need to be fixed. Do ejectors need to be rock solid or not?
Sig_229_Elite
Inactive
Geesh, u would think the Smith at Kimber would explain why they didn't address your concerns
Jim Watson
New member
While people playing with caliber conversions will make do with a loose ejector retained by the slide, it is not in spec for a real 1911.
A serious grade of Loctite will handle it. Springfield is gluing in at least some of their ejectors. Considering the one I saw with an ejector pin hole a few degrees off of square with the frame, that may not be a bad idea.
A serious grade of Loctite will handle it. Springfield is gluing in at least some of their ejectors. Considering the one I saw with an ejector pin hole a few degrees off of square with the frame, that may not be a bad idea.
Idahogunsmith
Inactive
Having read the post so far here is my tow cents
It not a Kimber thing or a colt thing it just way the barrel and link pin work. I would suspect this Kimbers and all 1911 relay on a good or respectable lock up what is lock is basically a few thing the amount on engagement when the gun is in battery ready to be fired, the top lug engage the grooves in the slide. But before we start looking there we should disassemble the beast and look at this area first. bottom of the barrel is the link, the slide stop goes through this hole in this link, if when they cut the linking lug it was properly shaped your problem could be there. It should have slope and when the slide stop rests you might see a small amount of flating when you remove the slide stop on the top side. Bottom ,line is this. You have many things in contact with the slide, the breech of the slide with hood, but it all relationships it should not be a press fit. The extractor should touch the back side of the barrel. Bottomline is this go slow. And get a magified head set. Look for drag marks and gauling
It not a Kimber thing or a colt thing it just way the barrel and link pin work. I would suspect this Kimbers and all 1911 relay on a good or respectable lock up what is lock is basically a few thing the amount on engagement when the gun is in battery ready to be fired, the top lug engage the grooves in the slide. But before we start looking there we should disassemble the beast and look at this area first. bottom of the barrel is the link, the slide stop goes through this hole in this link, if when they cut the linking lug it was properly shaped your problem could be there. It should have slope and when the slide stop rests you might see a small amount of flating when you remove the slide stop on the top side. Bottom ,line is this. You have many things in contact with the slide, the breech of the slide with hood, but it all relationships it should not be a press fit. The extractor should touch the back side of the barrel. Bottomline is this go slow. And get a magified head set. Look for drag marks and gauling
Well??? Did Kimber fix the slide problem???? Ditto on the LocTite fix on the ejector a dab of red should tighten it up, degrease it good, float a little between the frame and the botom of the ejector and it should be fine after it dries good. Clean up any extra with a small knife blade. As long as it dosent pop out when you take the slide off it should be fine with a little movement if you decide not to use the Loctite.
If the slide is still binding, as someone said above.....look for wear marks and see whats binding.....
Ar you using some form of Shok-Buffs??? I only use the Wilsons, some of the other I have used are oversized and will cause problems. Full Length guide rods will also cause this, so make sure the guide rod head is of proper dimensions, again , look for wear marks...
Good luck!
If the slide is still binding, as someone said above.....look for wear marks and see whats binding.....
Ar you using some form of Shok-Buffs??? I only use the Wilsons, some of the other I have used are oversized and will cause problems. Full Length guide rods will also cause this, so make sure the guide rod head is of proper dimensions, again , look for wear marks...
Good luck!