Steve in Allentown
New member
This applies to 1911s that do not have an integral plunger tube cast into the frame.
The original design of the 1911 specified that the left grip was to support the plunger tube to prevent it from dismounting due to a poor staking job. Manufacturers have long been known for not always doing a good job of staking plunger tubes securely to frames. Some are known to not even countersink the holes through which the tube rivets pass. If a plunger tube comes loose, proper functioning of the thumb safety and slide stop may be compromised. Here's a simple method to prevent the possibility of a plunger tube dismounting.
Here's a Hogue grip. Note that it doesn't make contact anywhere on the plunger tube. If the tube should come loose, it will be forced outboard by the thumb safety which may result in disabling it. Epoxy bedding will eliminate this gap. JB Weld works fine for this application and is available at any hardware store. No need to spend the big bucks on Devcon or Marine Tex.
The objective is to fill in the gap between the grip and the plunger tube. The only thing the bedding is supposed to do is eliminate any gaps between the grip and the plunger tube so that if the plunger tube legs weaken, the thumb safety and slide stop will continue to function correctly.
Here's a VZ grip. It is contacting the plunger tube. If the plunger tube comes loose it will not be able to move away from the frame and cause problems.
Make sure you apply a thin coat of release agent such as neutral shoe polish or paste wax to any surface that you don't want the epoxy to stick to. Before applying the release agent thoroughly clean all surfaces to remove all oil so that the release agent can form an unbroken film layer.
When applying the epoxy don't let it ooze over the top of the plunger tube or you'll have a terrible time trying to remove the grip. Don't let it get into the grip bushing holes in the grip either. Also, rough up the surface of the grip that extends up the side of the plunger tube so the epoxy has something to grab onto.
Here's your 5 second How-To lesson on bedding.
First up is a pic of a left side VZ grip showing where the plunger tube fits.
Rough up the yellow shaded area shown in the last picture below to give the epoxy something to hold onto. If you have the tools to do it, carefully drill some small holes at different angles into the yellow area to enhance the gripping action of the epoxy and to create a physical lock.
Then coat the red areas with the release agent so the glue doesn't stick to it. This is the absolute minimum area I'd coat. When in doubt coat everything. You can use masking tape or painters tape on the front of the grips. Tape is too thick to be used on the back of the grips or on the frame behind the grips.
Don't forget to coat the frame as well. If you don't coat the frame (every nook and cranny), the grip will become a permanent feature of the frame which you do not want to have happen. Coat the grip screw bushings, the plunger tube, and the area around the plunger tube very, very well. Use a toothbrush to get the neutral shoe polish or paste wax into the areas where there's a right angle like between the frame and the plunger tube.
The release agent will save you from a terrible mistake. Put it everywhere.
After you spend as much time as needed to fully coat the areas that will not receive the glue, you can mix up some epoxy and apply it to the yellow shaded areas. Then press the grip onto the frame. Make sure it is firmly seated. As long as you don't see any epoxy oozing up around the grip screw bushings, you can secure the grip to the frame with the grip screws.
Have some rubbing alcohol, paper towels, Q-tips, and a small tool handy to remove any epoxy that goes where you don't want it to go. Let everything sit overnight and remove the grip the next day.
The original design of the 1911 specified that the left grip was to support the plunger tube to prevent it from dismounting due to a poor staking job. Manufacturers have long been known for not always doing a good job of staking plunger tubes securely to frames. Some are known to not even countersink the holes through which the tube rivets pass. If a plunger tube comes loose, proper functioning of the thumb safety and slide stop may be compromised. Here's a simple method to prevent the possibility of a plunger tube dismounting.
Here's a Hogue grip. Note that it doesn't make contact anywhere on the plunger tube. If the tube should come loose, it will be forced outboard by the thumb safety which may result in disabling it. Epoxy bedding will eliminate this gap. JB Weld works fine for this application and is available at any hardware store. No need to spend the big bucks on Devcon or Marine Tex.
The objective is to fill in the gap between the grip and the plunger tube. The only thing the bedding is supposed to do is eliminate any gaps between the grip and the plunger tube so that if the plunger tube legs weaken, the thumb safety and slide stop will continue to function correctly.
Here's a VZ grip. It is contacting the plunger tube. If the plunger tube comes loose it will not be able to move away from the frame and cause problems.
Make sure you apply a thin coat of release agent such as neutral shoe polish or paste wax to any surface that you don't want the epoxy to stick to. Before applying the release agent thoroughly clean all surfaces to remove all oil so that the release agent can form an unbroken film layer.
When applying the epoxy don't let it ooze over the top of the plunger tube or you'll have a terrible time trying to remove the grip. Don't let it get into the grip bushing holes in the grip either. Also, rough up the surface of the grip that extends up the side of the plunger tube so the epoxy has something to grab onto.
Here's your 5 second How-To lesson on bedding.
First up is a pic of a left side VZ grip showing where the plunger tube fits.
Rough up the yellow shaded area shown in the last picture below to give the epoxy something to hold onto. If you have the tools to do it, carefully drill some small holes at different angles into the yellow area to enhance the gripping action of the epoxy and to create a physical lock.
Then coat the red areas with the release agent so the glue doesn't stick to it. This is the absolute minimum area I'd coat. When in doubt coat everything. You can use masking tape or painters tape on the front of the grips. Tape is too thick to be used on the back of the grips or on the frame behind the grips.
Don't forget to coat the frame as well. If you don't coat the frame (every nook and cranny), the grip will become a permanent feature of the frame which you do not want to have happen. Coat the grip screw bushings, the plunger tube, and the area around the plunger tube very, very well. Use a toothbrush to get the neutral shoe polish or paste wax into the areas where there's a right angle like between the frame and the plunger tube.
The release agent will save you from a terrible mistake. Put it everywhere.
After you spend as much time as needed to fully coat the areas that will not receive the glue, you can mix up some epoxy and apply it to the yellow shaded areas. Then press the grip onto the frame. Make sure it is firmly seated. As long as you don't see any epoxy oozing up around the grip screw bushings, you can secure the grip to the frame with the grip screws.
Have some rubbing alcohol, paper towels, Q-tips, and a small tool handy to remove any epoxy that goes where you don't want it to go. Let everything sit overnight and remove the grip the next day.