I have rounds that seem like they get stuck going into battery. It happens in the first half of the mag. Ruger Sr 1911 with Wilson combat 10 round tubes. Handloads with black bullets 200 gr rn. The bullets have sort of a sharp shoulder like a swc. I polished the feed ramp a touch and it seemed to help some. All the loads have gone through a lee fcd and pass a plunk test. What's next?
1911 hangups
- Thread starter mitdog51
- Start date
imashooter
New member
Have you tried other magazines? Is your magazine the type shaped for swc or swc - like ammunition?
I suggest what is next
Is NOT cutting any steel.Lock your Dremel away.
Observe .Watch it cycle dummys of the same reload config.Load some no primer/no powder.
It will be a little messy,but you can Magic marker ramp,throat,ammo,look for clues.
You have to figure out what is interference.Please,no "cut and hope".
Doing nothing is better than doing harm.
Excessive extractor tension will make it hard for the case to rise up the breech.
As can a lack of subtle little chamfer on the extractor itself.
Is the breech face smooth?
Subtle changes in loaded cartridge length can matter.
Maybe the 10 rd mags are fine,but maybe not.
Is it nose diving into the ramp?Is it not quite "going around the corner" at the throat,into the chamber?(Don't deepen the throat.You unsupport the case)
See what you can observe,then check back.
Is NOT cutting any steel.Lock your Dremel away.
Observe .Watch it cycle dummys of the same reload config.Load some no primer/no powder.
It will be a little messy,but you can Magic marker ramp,throat,ammo,look for clues.
You have to figure out what is interference.Please,no "cut and hope".
Doing nothing is better than doing harm.
Excessive extractor tension will make it hard for the case to rise up the breech.
As can a lack of subtle little chamfer on the extractor itself.
Is the breech face smooth?
Subtle changes in loaded cartridge length can matter.
Maybe the 10 rd mags are fine,but maybe not.
Is it nose diving into the ramp?Is it not quite "going around the corner" at the throat,into the chamber?(Don't deepen the throat.You unsupport the case)
See what you can observe,then check back.
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What it looks like is that it is getting stuck on the extractor. The rim of the case seems to get caught underneath of it and it won't slide up the breech face and into battery. Thanks for the advice, as far as my dremel work, it was limited to fiber pads for a polish only. No cutting here. What can I do to reduce extractor tension or maybe add more chamfer to it.
Here is a link to some Wilson Combat vid on what fine tuning is done to the extractor hook.
https://youtu.be/dorzFGvYj40
This vid is not the greatest,but it is a vid on extractor tension from STI
https://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
Between those you should get some idea.
https://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
The Weigand vid is a little more scientific,but it is also about selling tools
https://youtu.be/dorzFGvYj40
This vid is not the greatest,but it is a vid on extractor tension from STI
https://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
Between those you should get some idea.
https://youtu.be/9o-XoJVNAo8
The Weigand vid is a little more scientific,but it is also about selling tools
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I can tell you that I have no direct experience with those Wilson 47T 10-round .45ACP magazines, I know a few guys that have used these mags with no problems. However I have an SR1911 Commander length 1911, and the Wilson 47D 8-round magazines work flawlessly with all my .45ACP 1911's. I will also tell you that my SR1911 Commander did have some reliability tuning done to it, which included tuning the stock extractor.
I would seek out the services of a good 1911 pistolsmith and I would want a reliability tune performed on the gun, then have them test-fire 100 rounds of decent range ammo through it with those 47T mags to verify that the feedway problems are resolved.
I would seek out the services of a good 1911 pistolsmith and I would want a reliability tune performed on the gun, then have them test-fire 100 rounds of decent range ammo through it with those 47T mags to verify that the feedway problems are resolved.
Remove the extractor and see if the gun reliably hand-feeds rounds; if it does, you probably have too much tension, but for a 5" .45 the adjustment is not really a delicate one.
You can test extractor tension easily. I prefer a two-step test; hang a live round on the extractor then tilt and rotate the slide. The round should sag away from the breechface from the weight of the bullet but not fall off.
Perform the same test with a spent case; the case should be held tight by the extractor, not moving as you tilt and rotate the slide.
lee n. field
New member
Hmmm.
Get some quality 7 round magazines, and see if it still has the problem.
g.willikers
New member
Beware. 
If you decide to mess with the barrel ramp, know that there's some very important shapes and angles there.
That's in addition to the equally important ones on the frame ramp below the barrel.
Not even a lot of so called gunsmiths can be trusted to get it right.
Messed up, there's little that can be done to correct them.
However, if the bullets being used have a swc type of shoulder, the barrel ramp might very well, indeed, need modification.
But only by someone who knows how.
If you decide to mess with the barrel ramp, know that there's some very important shapes and angles there.
That's in addition to the equally important ones on the frame ramp below the barrel.
Not even a lot of so called gunsmiths can be trusted to get it right.
Messed up, there's little that can be done to correct them.
However, if the bullets being used have a swc type of shoulder, the barrel ramp might very well, indeed, need modification.
But only by someone who knows how.
I use the factory and Wilson Combat 7 rounders in my SR1911LW CMD. All work great. When I carry my 1911 I have 21 rounds of .45 ACP with me. If I ever need more than that, I probably shouldn't have been there in the first place. [emoji1]
polyphemus
New member
Any case damage?
4runnerman
New member
Dont know if it's true or not, but I have always been told most if not all cycling problems are usually mag related. I would try a different mag
I'll certainly agree magazines are a primary source of malfunction in a semi-auto pistol.
However,this is a controlled round feed 1911.
The case head must climb up the bolt face under the extractor for cycling to complete.That short,fat cartridge must rise up at a significant angle.The forward face of the rim contacts the extractor hook as an incline.For it to smoothly transition under the hook,a little hand crafted leade in can be necessary on the lower edge of the hook.
The extractor is also deflected outward by the brass rim in a three oclock direction.If it is a sharp edge on the underside of the extractor that engages the OD of the brass rim,,there is a hangup.
If the bolt face has any high spots,these can be a problem,too.Easily floated off with some light stone work,just knocking off the high spots.
If you prefer not to click links,go on youtube and search "1911 extractor tuning" There is a vid by Wilson Combat that shows the file work.
Its a very small job that just needs to be done right.
There are a few vids on extractor tension.
Excessive extractor tension can make it hard for the round to climb the bolt face.Insufficient extractor tension can cause FTE's,or the brass not being controlled enough to eject properly.It is one source of stovepipes.
Tuning the extractor is routine in making a 1911 run.On a new part or new gun,its a detail that is often the culprit.
The OP observed the extractor was causing the hangup.
Some good 7 or 8 rd mags might be a great investmrent,but they don't tune the extractor if the extractor is the problem.
Pardon me for getting windy about it,but a really important first step in correcting a malfunctioning firearm is observation.Understand the cycle,and observe.
BEFORE you pick up a file or a Dremel or a hammer or your MasterCard,know what it is you need to change,and why.
That would be my suggestion
However,this is a controlled round feed 1911.
The case head must climb up the bolt face under the extractor for cycling to complete.That short,fat cartridge must rise up at a significant angle.The forward face of the rim contacts the extractor hook as an incline.For it to smoothly transition under the hook,a little hand crafted leade in can be necessary on the lower edge of the hook.
The extractor is also deflected outward by the brass rim in a three oclock direction.If it is a sharp edge on the underside of the extractor that engages the OD of the brass rim,,there is a hangup.
If the bolt face has any high spots,these can be a problem,too.Easily floated off with some light stone work,just knocking off the high spots.
If you prefer not to click links,go on youtube and search "1911 extractor tuning" There is a vid by Wilson Combat that shows the file work.
Its a very small job that just needs to be done right.
There are a few vids on extractor tension.
Excessive extractor tension can make it hard for the round to climb the bolt face.Insufficient extractor tension can cause FTE's,or the brass not being controlled enough to eject properly.It is one source of stovepipes.
Tuning the extractor is routine in making a 1911 run.On a new part or new gun,its a detail that is often the culprit.
The OP observed the extractor was causing the hangup.
Some good 7 or 8 rd mags might be a great investmrent,but they don't tune the extractor if the extractor is the problem.
Pardon me for getting windy about it,but a really important first step in correcting a malfunctioning firearm is observation.Understand the cycle,and observe.
BEFORE you pick up a file or a Dremel or a hammer or your MasterCard,know what it is you need to change,and why.
That would be my suggestion
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DAVID NANCARROW
New member
It does sound like excessive extractor tension, assuming the magazine is a good fit for the weapon and the cartridge OAL is okay.
The OAL should be somewhere around 1.250" and the flare taken off the case once the bullet is seated. If it passes the plunk test, you are probably okay there. The taper crimp should be close to .470".
You might get a Wilson bulletproof extractor and either have it tensioned or follow some of the excellent vids out there if you decide to DIY. Keep your stock extractor as a spare.
Because I have a half a dozen 1911s around the house, I learned to DIY a few things on the platform including the extractor, such as filing a slight bevel on the bottom edge and making sure the extractor nose was not hitting the barrel. Setting the tension is pretty easy-no real need for a dedicated fixture, just a small vise and a couple of allen wrenches taped to the jaw. Take your time-a small bend is all that is needed.
The OAL should be somewhere around 1.250" and the flare taken off the case once the bullet is seated. If it passes the plunk test, you are probably okay there. The taper crimp should be close to .470".
You might get a Wilson bulletproof extractor and either have it tensioned or follow some of the excellent vids out there if you decide to DIY. Keep your stock extractor as a spare.
Because I have a half a dozen 1911s around the house, I learned to DIY a few things on the platform including the extractor, such as filing a slight bevel on the bottom edge and making sure the extractor nose was not hitting the barrel. Setting the tension is pretty easy-no real need for a dedicated fixture, just a small vise and a couple of allen wrenches taped to the jaw. Take your time-a small bend is all that is needed.
This, first, and foremost.
If the gun runs ok with factory 230gr ball, then there is NOTHING WRONG with the GUN.
If it doesn't run with 230 ball, send it to Ruger.
If it does run with ball, then you have a compatibility issue with your handloads, and the fix MIGHT be tinkering with the gun (possibly violating the warranty) OR it might be tinkering with your ammo.
Also, all 1911s are not equal, nor are all magazines.
Run some ball ammo through it, let us know if it still has the issues, or not...
44 Amp has made the same suggestion that i would have, cycle a few mags of ball through the pistol at the range, do not take the advise of all the folks hanging over your shooting point, if malfunctions still occur send the pistol back to Ruger for proper correction. Let the readers know your outcome.
I shot tens of thousands of those bullets when they were made by Masterblasters, the vast majority from 10-round mags, and they were not the least bit finicky as feeders.
If the length is in the 1.25" - 1.26" range, with a .470" taper crimp, ammo dimensions shouldn't be an issue.