1911 Hammer Spring

M

MSD Mike

New member
I have a Springfield Mil-Spec 1911, I recently attempted to install a Wolf 20Lb hammer spring in an attempt to reduce the trigger pull a bit. When installed the spring is too long and coil binds when you attempt to cock the hammer. At the same time I installed a flat main spring housing but the problem is there with either housing.
If it makes a difference it is a gun with the internal locking system, or at least it was before the new main spring housing.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mike
 
Too long a spring will bind when compressed, they become bound up. The tension is set by the springs wire diameter, and the only reason for any extra length might be a pre-load issue, but if its too long, it will bind. Same with recoil springs too.
 
Thanks, I recognize the problem is that the spring is to long. I'm just not sure why. I verified the part was ordered correctly I just thought I might be missing something. Ill give the good folks at Wolff a call and see what they recommend.

Thanks
Mike
 
Are you using the mainspring cap out of the ILS housing with the plain housing and Wolff spring?
You shouldn't. You need a standard mainspring cap and the little mainspring cap retaining pin that Springfield does not use in the ILS.
 
Thanks Jim, I ended up installing the ILS parts including the original spring and cap in the flat mainspring housing and it appears to function correctly but I haven’t shot the gun like this yet. With the original spring is it ok to run the ILS parts in the plain housing. If not I will convert back to the ILS housing until I can get the correct parts.

Thanks
Mike
 
I recently attempted to install a Wolf 20Lb hammer spring in an attempt to reduce the trigger pull a bit
Click to expand...
It seems like you gave yourself some unnecessary issues,it has been amply
demonstrated that this particular modification does little if anything to produce
the results you intended,the weight needed to pull the trigger is a direct function of the center leaf.
 
If you are replacing the stock Springfield (ILS) mainspring, you also need the Colt/G.I. plunger, cap, and pin. Don't mix the parts. Mainspring rating does have little impact on the trigger, and you can adversely affect function if you go too far.
 
Ok, not to beat a dead horse but here goes anyway. I get that I can't use the longer Wolff spring in my ILS gun and that it won't help the trigger pull much to use a lighter main spring. For the life of me I don't see why I can't use the parts out of my ILS main spring housing in my flat housing. The bore diameter for the spring is ok and the depth is about only .010 deeper on the ILS housing. Parts fit well and move smoothly with no sighn of spring bind in the flat housing. I haven't shot the gun but everything seems to work fine on the bench. I'm a rookie with the 1911 so I certainly could be overlooking something. I have no problem if its not right, I just like to know the whys and what goes on these things.
Any input from those more experienced on the 1911's is appreciated.

Thanks
Mike
 
nothing is broken or being fixed. I like the flat main spring housing better then the arched. It fits my hand better.
 
For the life of me I don't see why I can't use the parts out of my ILS main spring housing in my flat housing.
Click to expand...

The parts on the ILS system use a shorter spring and strut. Then length of all the parts of the ILS system results in less pretension travel. I just clipped a new spring to fit on mine with no ill effects. I went to a heavier spring though.

If you are getting a new set of parts just don't forget the hammer strut.
 
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I don't have one to check, but IIRC, that pistol does not have a mainspring housing pin retainer; they removed it to make more room for the ILS, and then shortened the mainspring hole. The retainer is the little cone shaped plunger that goes at the bottom of the mainspring and also goes through a hole in the MSH to fit into the groove in the MSH pin. Without it, the MSH pin is held only by friction, but that is usually good enough.

Jim
 
Ok, not to beat a dead horse but here goes anyway. I get that I can't use the longer Wolff spring in my ILS gun and that it won't help the trigger pull much to use a lighter main spring. For the life of me I don't see why I can't use the parts out of my ILS main spring housing in my flat housing. The bore diameter for the spring is ok and the depth is about only .010 deeper on the ILS housing. Parts fit well and move smoothly with no sighn of spring bind in the flat housing. I haven't shot the gun but everything seems to work fine on the bench. I'm a rookie with the 1911 so I certainly could be overlooking something. I have no problem if its not right, I just like to know the whys and what goes on these things.
Any input from those more experienced on the 1911's is appreciated.

Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

A buddy of mine swapped only the spring in his Mil-Spec, and the gun started doubling and tripling. This was in '03, when I think the ILS system was fairly new on the market. At the time, I thought the problem was that the G.I. mainspring was too short, and so didn't maintain sufficient pressure on the hammer? I suspect that with some testing, you could determine which of dozens of parts combinations would work satisfactorily, but just replacing all of the ILS-specific parts will be safe and reliable, but when changing all of the parts costs $15, I just changed them all.
 
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MSD Mike, I can understand you wanting to change to a flat mainspring housing, I prefer the flat over the arched myself.

When I decided to build the custom Springfield in the picture, one of the things that had to go was the arched mainspring housing with the ILS system.

Send an e-mail to bob@huntercustoms.com and I'll be glad to list the parts you need, I will also give you some good info on what's required to tune trigger pull weight.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
It seems like you gave yourself some unnecessary issues,it has been amply
demonstrated that this particular modification does little if anything to produce
the results you intended,the weight needed to pull the trigger is a direct function of the center leaf.
Click to expand...

Can you explain why a lighter main spring does not affect trigger pull weight?

I thought the center leaf was to push up the disconnector? please explain?
 
All hammer spring pressure causes more pull due to friction of the sear surfaces. Especially, if a sear has a positive engagement, as the hammer compresses the hammer spring a minute amount when the sear is moved out of engagement. It is the only truly safe sear system, and a neutral one is pushing unsafe. That is taught in about every major gunsmithing class.

An easy test to prove the point, is by taking an empty cup and placing it on a sheet of paper. Pull out the paper from underneath, and see how much force it took. Next, fill the cup with water, and do the same action, and note the increased friction against the paper. Stoning the sear surface helps relieve the pressure some, but there will always be some friction, even though the surface is smooth, and if the spring weight is changed, then the pull is changed, as the friction goes up and down.
 
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