1911 hammer following slide help

E

Eazmo

New member
need input guys. 1911 GI springer
The hammer is following the slide into battery after first shot.
Cycles complete loading next round but i have to cock the hammer to fire.
The slide locks open on last round.

The gun passes bench tests operation of the safety's and hammer stays cocked when i operate the slide by hand.

i tried with my 185 gr reloads and factory 230gr win and umc all with no difference.

I have done full strip and clean, re lube all with no difference
 
Check the sear/disconnector contact point for wear.

Edit: the disconnector will probobly be the worn part
 
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I have very limited expeience with the 1911.
What I have come to believe might be true:You start at the beginning and work through a whole process of fitting the parts .And that will mean having proper tools.

One set of references,that I use,is Wilson Combat's set of 1911 gunsmithing CD's.I also use Kunhausen's books.

I suggest you have two paths,one path is to dive 100% in,and learn the 1911,buy the tools and references,screw up a few parts along the way,etc

Or find a gunsmith,or return it to SA,to let someone who knows the 1911 do it.

There is not a whole lot of internet advice tinkering that will help.

It may be as simple as adjusting the sear spring,which is described in Kunhausen.
Good luck!!
 
Return it to Springfield.

A 1911 hammer should never follow, no matter what. It indicates a serious condition that could lead to accidental discharges or even a full-auto 1911.

It's not safe.
 
My Springfield 1911 A1 was doubling (thought it was a trigger control problem), when I had an accidental discharge in my shop I knew I was in trouble. I have the kuhnhausen 45ACP (the pair) books showed me step by step the how to determine what had failed. The sear spring was the problem, I had a spare spring, adjusted and installed with no more problems, it's pretty scary when a hand gun discharges/fires when it's not supposed to.. Jammer six is correct.. William
 
I have to pay attention when assembling one.I place the sear spring,careful to have each finger on the spring doing its job,particularly the sear spring on the left.Then I partially install the mainspring housing to hold it in place.
If it seems the sear spring has moved,start over.

Question Did this happen from new,come on gradually,or was it from the last Disaasy/reassy?
 
This is a family hand me down.
It has been modded quite a bit so can't send to S.A.

I have kuhnhausen shop manual and will get to read it more
 
Brickeyee has asked the key question, I think. You could have a worn disconnecter or the disconnecter recess in the slide may need to be cut a little further forward if the barrel was fit up and is keeping the slide slightly to the rear of flush with the frame. But beginner trigger work is the most common culprit, IME. Lots of folks who don't know how to get a creep-free trigger release with proper engagement angle and hammer hook height has has tried to solve the problem by lowering the sear nose angle or shortening the hammer hooks, but goes too far with one or both. Another common error is to fail to stone an adequate rollover angle on the back of the sear nose to keep its back edge from finding the radius on the inside corner of the hammer hooks. Lots of possibilities.

I don't know how you are doing the slide closing test. The way I do it is to remove the magazine and pull the slide into counter-battery. After double-checking that no round has magically managed to stay in the chamber, I hold the gun by pinching my right thumb and index finger over opposite sides of the mainspring housing assembly pin at the bottom rear corner of the grip frame, then balancing it upright with the muzzle at an upward angle. I then depress the slide release with my left thumb, using my left index finger for the minimum support necessary for that thumb to do the job. This releases the slide with essentially no grip frame support and with the trigger not depressed and holding the disconnecter down below the sear feet. If the hammer follows, I improve the engagement.
 
Springfield probably won't care.

I sent back a Springfield on which only the barrel, frame and slide were original, and they fixed it.

Unclenick, I can't visualize that.

What point of the weapon do you balance it on?

This one, I'd like a picture, if that's possible. (I realize you're out of hands, and that I'm asking a lot.)
 
I had a similar problem on a revolver (s&w K22). After cocking it for single action, I could get the hammer to drop by pressing the hammer spur with my thumb. Sear had to be recut. Now it has the crispest trigger I have ever tried.

I'm betting the problem is the sear or disconnecter is worn.
 
If the gun has had a trigger with overtravel screw installed, the screw can become unadjusted in either direction. If it's turned in too far, the gun won't fire, and if it's turned out too far, the trigger can overtravel enough to push the sear spring out of contact with the disconnector (ask me how I know). Those nasty, primitive 1911s had an overtravel stop built into the grip safety, but the smarter guys building parts today sometimes remove that overtravel function, leaving you dependent upon the overtravel screw to limit trigger travel to a safe level.
The sear spring is certainly a more likely culprit.
 
If it's turned in too far, the gun won't fire, and if it's turned out too far, the trigger can overtravel enough to push the sear spring out of contact with the disconnector (ask me how I know)
Click to expand...

Tell me Rick, how do you know...
 
fixed

well after two days of educational reading and a couple of complete strip downs. i replaced disconnect and sear spring with no change.

Another day of studying the books and allot of studying the fire control system in and out of the gun.

well it turned out to be the over travel screw on the trigger had backed out and the trigger was over riding the sear spring.
KUDOS TO RICKB

after triple checking bench operation and safety functions took it out. ran three mags with only 2 rounds then up to 3 and then 4 all OK. i ran 100 rounds Thu it total and i am very glad to have my baby back up and running.

Thanks for all the input, this has been a great education on the 1911 trigger group and i now feel way more comfortable with the inner workings. It is allot easier fix something when you understand how it works
 
Good for you!!
It is something that has to be right,or it isn't safe.Unguided tinkering/tampering is a bad idea.
That you sat down,studied,understood,and solved is great.I have had that screw move,too.I used a little loctite blue.
 
I used a little loctite blue
Click to expand...
I did the same

If you lock the slide open, and then drop it on an empty chamber, will if follow?
Click to expand...
NO

That you sat down,studied,understood,and solved is great
Click to expand...
between the .45 shop manual, Ed Brown reference CD, and there is some wonderful photo's and diagrams over on the High Road that all helped for a clear understanding.
 
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