1911 Feeding issue
- Thread starter MuzzleBlast
- Start date
macsgunworks
Inactive
can't tell by the pic's if your using round nose , wad cutter ? did this gun run ok befor? you might have to include a little more info for trouble shotting your issue.shell case in pic looks like reload
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
From the photos, you can't really tell what is causing it. If it were the magazine, the cartridge would tip up too much at the front, when it is pushed out of the magazine by the slide.
Another could be a rough feed ramp, etc, or the bullet type.
Last, it could be as Scorch mentions, in that the cartridge rim isn't wanting to go under the extractor.
Another could be a rough feed ramp, etc, or the bullet type.
Last, it could be as Scorch mentions, in that the cartridge rim isn't wanting to go under the extractor.
g.willikers
New member
You could do a quick and dirty check of the internal extractor tension.
And clean it and it's hidey hole in the slide real good, too.
The extractor should not slide in and out too easily.
It should have some definite resistance when taking it out or putting it in the slide.
If it has lost tension, it's an easy fix.
Just put in its hole up to, but not including, the fulcrum bump.
Then put a little pressure on it to bend it some.
When you feel some resistance when installing it all the way, it's about right.
Hardly a highly technical method, but it usually does the job.
And clean it and it's hidey hole in the slide real good, too.
The extractor should not slide in and out too easily.
It should have some definite resistance when taking it out or putting it in the slide.
If it has lost tension, it's an easy fix.
Just put in its hole up to, but not including, the fulcrum bump.
Then put a little pressure on it to bend it some.
When you feel some resistance when installing it all the way, it's about right.
Hardly a highly technical method, but it usually does the job.
Had similar problems........failure to feed and no plop test.
After playing with different bullet profiles and OAL's until I was blue in the face, my solution was to size to 451 and use a Lee factory crimp die. Now 100% sucess with almost ANY 45 profile.
I PC every round for perfect performance and ZERO leading.
I use the FCD on 9mm's and 40 S&W's with the same success rate. Virtually all the semi's I have love the FCD. Just enough to get the plop test. Adds another stp in reloading, but removed all frustration at the range!
After playing with different bullet profiles and OAL's until I was blue in the face, my solution was to size to 451 and use a Lee factory crimp die. Now 100% sucess with almost ANY 45 profile.
I PC every round for perfect performance and ZERO leading.
I use the FCD on 9mm's and 40 S&W's with the same success rate. Virtually all the semi's I have love the FCD. Just enough to get the plop test. Adds another stp in reloading, but removed all frustration at the range!
polyphemus
New member
High angle stoppage.
You have an after market barrel in that pistol?
Right there it is very hard to tell what is causing the failure to chamber.Under
stock circumstances,the magazine could be the cause,cart. release point,weak
spring and follower angle are common problems.And of course extractor tension any old method won't do you have to measure it,between 1.5Lb and 1.75Lb is what works best for most M1911's.Helpful to know what kind ammo you use.
You have an after market barrel in that pistol?
Right there it is very hard to tell what is causing the failure to chamber.Under
stock circumstances,the magazine could be the cause,cart. release point,weak
spring and follower angle are common problems.And of course extractor tension any old method won't do you have to measure it,between 1.5Lb and 1.75Lb is what works best for most M1911's.Helpful to know what kind ammo you use.
Jim Watson
New member
When I got a Wilson barrel for my Colt, it had an undersize chamber and sharp chamber mouth at the top of the ramp. It was very accurate but not reliable. Gunsmith reamed the chamber and SLIGHTLY radiused the mouth edge.
So if it is not something obvious like the extractor, that will be a place to look.
So if it is not something obvious like the extractor, that will be a place to look.
Could also be a case (pun) of the rim catching on the firing pin port. Usually, a small bevel around the rim of the port will fix it. I've used a drill bit slightly larger than the port, turned with my fingers.
Remove the extractor, and see if the gun then feeds correctly. If so, probably excess extractor tension is a/the culprit.
Remove the extractor, and see if the gun then feeds correctly. If so, probably excess extractor tension is a/the culprit.
It is not only extractor tension,but often a slight amount of shaping.
It has to do with the lower edges of the hook.A sharp edge will dig into brass.
It needs a small chamfer on the edges that the brass initially contacts.I can't describe it well enough for you to fix it,but it is a routine part of fitting an extractor.
It has to do with the lower edges of the hook.A sharp edge will dig into brass.
It needs a small chamfer on the edges that the brass initially contacts.I can't describe it well enough for you to fix it,but it is a routine part of fitting an extractor.
MuzzleBlast
New member
More information on this:
I first bought this gun in 2001. In that time span, the gun and I have found myriad ways to fail each other. Several years ago I had a squib and bulged the original barrel, replaced it with a Wilson drop-in.
I am the poster child for penny wise and dollar foolish. I call this condition "cheapbastardism."
Anyway, the gun only recently developed this problem, and it does not seem to matter what mags I use, or whether I am using factory hardball, factory JHP or my own cast bullet reloads.
I will try adjusting the extractor.
Thanks for the replies. I knew I could count on you guys.
I first bought this gun in 2001. In that time span, the gun and I have found myriad ways to fail each other. Several years ago I had a squib and bulged the original barrel, replaced it with a Wilson drop-in.
I am the poster child for penny wise and dollar foolish. I call this condition "cheapbastardism."
Anyway, the gun only recently developed this problem, and it does not seem to matter what mags I use, or whether I am using factory hardball, factory JHP or my own cast bullet reloads.
I will try adjusting the extractor.
Thanks for the replies. I knew I could count on you guys.
polyphemus
New member
Don't be so hard on yourself man,that aftermarket barrel may have timing
issues beyond anything most of us regular guys can fix.
It seems by what you write that first and foremost the barrel and link need to
be checked for correct fit see there are geometry issues that affect chambering
hood length,link size,ramp angle and what have you.Barrels and especially aftermarket barrels have to be fit to work right,you have a better chance with a
factory part.Having said all that,don't give up never give up on you piece.
If you don't see the light at the end then take it to a guy who knows M1911's and has the equipment to fix them,above all do not polish the feed ramp and do not install a heavier reaction spring.good luck
issues beyond anything most of us regular guys can fix.
It seems by what you write that first and foremost the barrel and link need to
be checked for correct fit see there are geometry issues that affect chambering
hood length,link size,ramp angle and what have you.Barrels and especially aftermarket barrels have to be fit to work right,you have a better chance with a
factory part.Having said all that,don't give up never give up on you piece.
If you don't see the light at the end then take it to a guy who knows M1911's and has the equipment to fix them,above all do not polish the feed ramp and do not install a heavier reaction spring.good luck
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
MuzzleBlast,
Since its recent, I would check the extractor first thing.
Since its recent, I would check the extractor first thing.
Gregory Gauvin
New member
Looks like an overly tight extractor to me. I had the same problem. Had a friend with the same problem. Thought to believe Springfield guns were coming 'round with overly tight extractors.
Simple check. Put a shell casing up under the extractor. Tie a piece of dental floss around it and to a bag of 271 pennies. Give or take. (I forgot how many...but we want to be 25-28 ounces..a penny is 2.5g, maybe I had some pre 1982s in there) and slowly, gently lift the slide. Shell should slide out. If it doesn't, extractor is too tight.
Shell should be held in by 270 pennies
Simple check. Put a shell casing up under the extractor. Tie a piece of dental floss around it and to a bag of 271 pennies. Give or take. (I forgot how many...but we want to be 25-28 ounces..a penny is 2.5g, maybe I had some pre 1982s in there) and slowly, gently lift the slide. Shell should slide out. If it doesn't, extractor is too tight.
Shell should be held in by 270 pennies
g.willikers
New member
So, we're all in agreement, then.
It's either a too tight extractor, or a too loose extractor, or something else.
It's either a too tight extractor, or a too loose extractor, or something else.
Gregory Gauvin
New member
Is this factory ammunition? I just got back from the range and had 2 or 3 stoppages just as the one pictured.
These were reloads, however.
I removed the barrel and dropped the round that hung up in there to see if it would plunk. It would not. I set my OAL to 1.245" (running 230 LRN) and the majority of my rounds passed the plunk test. But I didn't leave much room for margin, as I wanted the bullet right at the lands. 1.250" stick, 1.245" plunk nicely. I measured the OAL of this round and it was 1.248". Obviously some of my cases are different length, and I'm going to have to reduce my OAL to 1.240" to increase reliability.
Using different mags and different ammo may exclude what I just said, but, different mags of different design as well should be tried. I was surprised my Springfield 7 rounds feed all my 1911s except my Kimber, and my Kimber mags hang up the rounds in my Taurus. My Taurus mags feed my kimber and my springfield mags feed my Taurus.
These were reloads, however.
I removed the barrel and dropped the round that hung up in there to see if it would plunk. It would not. I set my OAL to 1.245" (running 230 LRN) and the majority of my rounds passed the plunk test. But I didn't leave much room for margin, as I wanted the bullet right at the lands. 1.250" stick, 1.245" plunk nicely. I measured the OAL of this round and it was 1.248". Obviously some of my cases are different length, and I'm going to have to reduce my OAL to 1.240" to increase reliability.
Using different mags and different ammo may exclude what I just said, but, different mags of different design as well should be tried. I was surprised my Springfield 7 rounds feed all my 1911s except my Kimber, and my Kimber mags hang up the rounds in my Taurus. My Taurus mags feed my kimber and my springfield mags feed my Taurus.