1911 feeding issue

R

Robk

New member
Can anyone tell by this picture what may actually be going on. Somehow I believe it is a severally over polished feed ramp. Do think it is a minimum spec at the very least. If feed ramp iis supected, has anyone used EGW carbon steel feed ramp insert? If so, how much to have it installed? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Oh, this is usally the 2nd or 3rd round where this begins. I used Tripp Cobra mags when testing this pistol.

20130324_145355_zps17e78aa3.jpg
 
If the feed ramp in the frame is suspect, there's an easy check.
Put the barrel in without the slide.
With the barrel in the link down position, and flat against the top of the frame, the barrel ramp should be 1/32" forward of the frame ramp.
Purty sure that's right.
 
How old is the recoil spring? A new recoil spring 16lb would be a good start looking into this.

What ammo is this? Long OAL will slow the gun down and this early(in the feed cycle) stoppage is often due to the round hitting the feed ramp slow and without much spring power.

Last, if it is caught on the barrel edge, it is usually related to the barrel ramp issue discussed above.
 
Here's another picture of the barrel seated with the release pinning it in place and held down and back. Can feel a bump as you move up the ramp.

20131106_174837_zps5bd37171.jpg


As for the recoil spring, new flat spring with custom bushing and FLGR. Parts are not available for this any more so you are left to whatever you can make.

Was you factory rounds when checking operation. Magtech 230 FMJRN.
 
I have been testing this pistol with Tripp Cobra mags. None better for this purpose. Feed lip adjustment is not going to happen. Best thing I can think of is a feed ramp insert to correct of the lack of ramp barrel gap.
 
Does the pistol have a long link installed? Has the frame ramp been polished? There doesn't seem to be enough set back between the barrel ramp and the frame ramp. When being fed from the magazine, the bullet tip of a fresh round will be guided by the from transitions: the frame ramp, the frame ramp edge, the ramp set back, the barrel ramp edge, and the barrel ram. The gap between the 2 ramps will hang up the feed if you ever let the bullet get there. So the barrel ramp needs to be set back behind the frame ramp so that the bullet has no chance to touch the lower edge of the barrel ramp.

Your pistol seems to have zero ramp set back.

-TL
 
It may be the angle but from here it looks like the barrel throat is on the edge of the feed ramp and that there is some damage to it,actually it seems that the
ramp has been dremeled.If that is the case the remedy is best left to a very
competent craftsman,good luck.
 
I do believe this was due to Dremel Dan and Bubba "polishing" the feed ramp. I am considering a feed ramp insert. As parts for this are no longer made. Just have to see who can do it.
 
That is a terrible looking feed ramp. It looks like it was worked over by someone who had no idea what he was doing. I hope it didn't come from the factory that way!

Jim
 
This is an older no longer produced model. Who knows where it has been and who it has met. I just like the feel of this pistol and it is an interesting design. It has a officer length slide,which is just a shortened full size slide,no difference if you put the two together, except length. It also has a full size frame. Bought it as a learning tool OTD for $250. Had to figure out a spring system for it as nothing out there fits. So another $90 for that. If the insert I am thinking about now fixes it. Estimate of $175, well than a BOB tail treatment, nice new mainspring housing and a properly fitted beavertail, it would be ready for a nice refinish. All for $800-$900,for something that very few people have, and would at that point be an interesting semi custom. Just don't want to sink too much all at once.
 
If the insert job is $175,well,Sarco will sell you a Rock Island frame for about $125 and Brownells or Midway would sell you a Caspian for somewhere around $200.

Just offering options.

One thing about messing with guns,you don't always have to do what makes sense.Sometimes you can do just cuz...
 
The AO factory is up in Worcester not too far from you.Have you tried to
contact them?,they may have some ideas about parts interchangeability.
 
If you know a really good welder, it is possible to build up the frame ramp.
Then it can be reshaped to normal.
No, it's probably not the guy at the muffler shop.
 
I have/am considering a new frame Rock Island from SARCO,yup already looked into it. Caspian is another option, have a catalog somewhere. I think I will consult with a local who owns a machine shop and builds competition firearms. Sure he could get me through this. That is unless I consider buying a new frame. Could put the original aside for now and have a working pistol. Than have it fixed later and build another pistol on the Caspian /Rock island frame.
 
The barrel ramp (not frame ramp) can be moved forward, how much will depend on how much case support the barrel has now.

However this should only be done by an experienced pistol smith, preferably a 1911 smith.

Besides the other suggestions that's been given you, you can also go with a integral ramped barrel ( commonly called a full ramp barrel).
To do so the frame would need to be milled for the ramp cut.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
I have seen the slide get caught on the disconnector and cause similiar problems. Basically the disconnector was a little too tall, and when assembled/reassembled the slide caught the tip of the disconnector and bent it over causing a ridge. Every time the gun was fired the ridge would bash into the ramp on the slide and it caused a dent. Little time with a stone on the disconnector and some 1000 grit to both worked things out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top