1911 extractor problem?

H

Hawkeye

New member
I was out shooting my Kimber stainless target and noticed that the fired cases have a subtle "ding" on the bottom that appears to be where the extractor impacted the case. It was forceful enough to slightly bend that portion of the case down towards the extraction rim of the case. I suspect that they can be reloaded and fired, however.

I'm assuming that this is the extractor. My other 1911's don't do this. I suspect that the extractor is too "stout" and requires significant force to snap over the case head. How would I go about correcting this problem? I already tried putting in a a lighter (16#) spring, but it had no effect.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
In the standard operating cycle, the case is supposed to slide along the breechface and under the extractor, making the "snap-over" function unnecessary.

You might have a problem here.

Some people preach loud and long against chambering a round by hand and snapping the extractor over it when putting the slide in battery. This is usually done before inserting a fully loaded mag, so you get the mag capacity +1.

IMHO, if the extractor leaves more than a little drag mark, your feed/extraction system needs a little work. Using the snap-over function is less than ideal, but it *should* work without trashing your brass.
 
Oh, the solution--check to see if you have a .38 Super extractor. You'll have to look it up, 'cause I have no references to give you measurements or description of which is what.

The fix could be as simple as touching up the angled surface at the front of the (correct) extractor to make sure it can cam outward over the rim without slamming the rim over. I'd be happy to grind on my own gun's extractor, but hesitate to give you instructions on how to do it...
 
Hawkeye, the mark is more likely from the ejector. This can be caused by a combination of a too tight extractor and a too light recoil spring for the load being used. George
 
Ah, George, the light goes on in my head and I realize why I'm not a gunsmith! The ejector makes a LOT of sense.

I'm running with an 18.5# Wolff spring and firing factory WW 230gr FMJ ammo. With my other guns that works well. Should I try a heavier spring? Thanks for the advice.
 
Hawkeye, are you sure it's an 18.5# spring? I hate to advise anyone to put in a heavier spring than that. Check your extractor tension first. With the slide off the frame, slip a dummy round up under the extractor. If it sticks straight out the extractor needs adjustment. There should be a slight nose down droop when the tension is correct. You can go to http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm and find an article by Bill Wilson on adjusting the extractor. George
 
George, I did some comparisons with my extra 1911 springs, and it is an 18.5# variable spring. I got the Wilson info and the extractor tension seems to be right on.

I'm wondering if the extended ejector is just a bit too extended? Anyhow, I have some Shok Buffs around. I had them on a Les Baer Premier, but found that I could occasionally have a feed jam that wouldn't clear with the Shok Buff in place. That hasn't been a problem with the Kimber. I put a Shok Buff in the Kimber and I'll try to check it next time out pistol shooting.

Any other suggestions? Thanks much.
 
You could shorten the ejector nose. The standard 1911 ejectors are almost flat and there are tactical ejectors that are about half as long as a combat ejector. The next least expensive change would be the recoil spring if the shok buffs don't work. George
 
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