1911 ejects into forehead

Ifishsum

New member
I picked up a lightly used Springfield 1911A1 last year (GI milspec model) and it does feed and eject reliably but softly arcs the brass directly up and back at my head - they often land on top of my head and sometimes into my forehead. Kind of takes away from the shooting experience...I'll admit to being an amateur but I have successfully fit a new extractor to another 1911A1 before, and I tried adjusting this one similarly but so far with no improvement. ..what else should I be looking into? Thanks.
 
It's got to do with where the ejector hits the spent cartridge, in what direction it will come out. You may need to replace it. It sits on top of the frame, just behind the magazine well. A hull should come out high to the right.
 
and I tried adjusting this one similarly but so far with no improvement. ..
What kind of "adjustment" did you do to this one? Too low pressure on the rim
will cause this type ejection pattern.What did you set it at?
 
Extractor tention. The case can sometimes be bumped up by the next round in the magazine causing the ejector to strike it low. It could also be the magaines. Too much tension on the nose of the round by the magazine could cause it. Once the mag springs wear a little it could go away.
 
I've seen shooters themselves cause or add to this problem ( more so with right handed shooters), keep in mind the 1911 torques to the left.

As for the mechanical issues that may need to be address, they are, the ejector, extractor, ejection port and mags.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
Always were a hat and shooting glasses.

I had this problem with a 308 Garand, it would eject cases into my forehead. I would come back from rifle matches with half moon cuts on my forehead.

Your problem is a combination of ejector height and extractor tension.
 
What kind of "adjustment" did you do to this one? Too low pressure on the rim
will cause this type ejection pattern.What did you set it at?

It was a while ago, I don't remember whether I felt it was too much or too little but I can place a loaded round in the slide and it will hold up to a light shaking. I pretty much tried to match the tension side-by-side with the WW2 Colt that I was successful with. I didn't actually measure anything though.

is your wrist flexing?

Can't rule that out, but I haven't had this problem with other 1911s and others who have fired this one have also taken brass on the head. I also have a WW2 Colt and it doesn't do this to me.

Replacing the ejector is easy enough, so it probably makes sense to go there next. It does seem to be shaped a bit different than the Colt. I saw a post here yesterday on extractor adjustment with some good info, in fact that's what got me thinking about this again. I'll give that another try as well. Thanks!
 
It was a while ago, I don't remember whether I felt it was too much or too little but I can place a loaded round in the slide and it will hold up to a light shaking
No man,the loaded cartridge method doesn't tell you anything you gotta measure things to know what you have.I posted a very simple method that
doesn't involve you buying anything on another related thread that will indicate
within reason what the rim pressure is,the ejector unless loose is likely to be
fine if original,aftermarket ejectors all too often don't work well and need some
tweaking,I'm a big fan of stock parts unless factory ones are definitely not
doing the job.
 
Wear a helmet?

LOL, I usually suggest people move their heads. But seriously, more often than not when I have dealt with shooters with this problem, the problem is wrist flexing, or more correctly, gun torque whereby the gun torques in the wrist during firing and it rotates the ejection port just enough that a sideways ejection is now an ejection to the head.

Instead of replacing parts and adjusting tension, both of which may not need to be done, first see if this is a problem with an experienced shooter. There is no need to fix what isn't broken, if it isn't broken or out of adjustment.
 
I had a similar problem with a 1911 years ago, proper extractor hook profile and dropping the port solved the issue. If the case mouths are dented, dropping the port would solve it, the real issue is too much radius on the extractor hook.
 
the problem is wrist flexing, or more correctly, gun torque whereby the gun torques in the wrist during firing and it rotates the ejection port just enough that a sideways ejection is now an ejection to the head.
Let me get this straight,for a normal three o'clock ejection to turn into a six o'clock and hit you on the forehead the gun has not only rotated ninety degrees to the right but also moved to the left and flipped sideways and down
so the brass doesn't miss you.The limp wrist theory should nowadays be called
the limp wrists theory,I don't buy it anyway there's no stovepipe that a half
decent armorer can't take care of in fifteen minutes or less.
 
Well, you can mess around with the gun and risk turning a good shooter into a not so good shooter, or......
Use this as a training asset.
Like practicing the very important defensive technique of moving off the X.
The case can't hit you if you're not there any more.
Just a thought. :)
 
Use this as a training asset.
Like practicing the very important defensive technique of moving off the X.
The case can't hit you if you're not there any more.

This sounds like a remarkably bad idea, unsafe on several levels as well as training-in a flinch.
 
Are you using a heavier-than-normal recoil spring, to "reduce battering"? If so, try a standard spring. Or, if you are using light handloads, a reduced-power spring.
 
I had a similar problem with a 1911 years ago, proper extractor hook profile and dropping the port solved the issue. If the case mouths are dented, dropping the port would solve it, the real issue is too much radius on the extractor hook.

Scorch is right on with this one. Listen to the man.
 
If the case mouths are dented, dropping the port would solve it, the real issue is too much radius on the extractor hook.
Dented case mouths are a sign of insufficient extractor pressure,they go away
as soon as it is correctly set.I don't think that enlarging the port solves anything
the original dimensions work fine in countless numbers of guns.
What radius is this you refer to?Could you give the blueprint figure and subsequent modification and how it caused the issue in the first place?
 
I agree with Bob Hunter. Before any work is done, take the cheap route and let an experienced shooter try it. If said experienced shooter is struck by brass, then some adjustments are in order.
 
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