`1911 Ejector Tuning

8

80viking

New member
I have a series 70 1911 that I use for open class steel plate shooting. It has a Weigand mount with a C-More on top and also a comp. The ejection port is already lowered and flared. Also the front of the ejector is now even with the rear of the magazine opening. My problem is that almost all of my brass ends up forward of the firing line. Most of it misses the tarp completely and I am getting a jamb every 100 rds or so. What I think is happening is a spent case is bouncing off of the mount back into the ejection port.

My question is, is it just a matter of shortening the ejector untill the cases land where I want them?

Thanks
John
 
It is not a matter of shortening the ejector but of angling the front face to direct the brass where you want it.

Jim
 
Just for clarification

So, if I file an angle on the front of the ejector and test fire as I gradually increase it, I should see the brass land more to my right as the angle increases?

Thanks Jim.
 
What caliber are you shooting and what's your power factor?

With a red-dot scope and mount, in general it's best if the top of the ejector and not the bottom strikes the brass, so the nose of the ejector needs to be something like this angle /.

The length of the ejector is important also.

The inside edge of the nose should also have a 45 degree bevel, this lets the empty roll off the ejector and eject more to the side.

I've tuned many a open division gun (which is what you are shooting) so virtually all the brass would eject into a 5 gallon bucket.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
Caliber is 45acp, and the load is relatively mild, its 4.5gr of Red Dot and a 200gr swc bullet. The rules around here for ammo are pretty much non existent. I am also running a 12lb recoil spring.

John
 
John,

I wished I knew how to draw on a computer but I don't.

Your extractor and ejector are the two main players in your ejection pattern.

Most full size 1911 style pistols in 45 ACP caliber come with a short ejector with the nose cut at something like this angle\.
This is not good on a open division gun as it will most likely eject the brass up instead of sideways, causing your brass to hit the red-dot mount.

You need an extended ejector cut with the angles I referred to in my first post.

Best of luck in your endeavors.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
I reshaped the front of the ejector and now all the brass stays on the tarp just forward of me. I still get one every now and then that bounces off the mount and lands in a different place than the others. I have a Wilson extended ejector on the way because there is so little to work with on a standard length ejector.

Thanks for the help guys!

John
 
Tested the Wilson extended ejector yesterday. I installed it as it was out of the wrapper and now the empty cases land about 4' to my right about a foot behind me, perfect! I don,t expect any more of these type of jams.

Thanks!
 
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re:

Your extractor and ejector are the two main players in your ejection pattern.
Click to expand...

And that...right...there is the point that I have the most trouble getting across to some few people...and that there's more to tuning an extractor than bending and straightening for tension.
 
I'm A Believer

I shot two matches this weekend and my open gun didn't miss a beat.

My next one to straighten out is a Colt 1911 made in 1918 that I have owned for well over 20 years. I watched brass bounce off of my sons forehead all day today. Its already got an Ed Brown hard core extractor, I plan to do a little shaping to the end of that and install the same ejector I put in the open gun.

I found a lot of tuning tips here for almost everything but the ejector.
http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/reliability_secrets.htm
After shaping and polishing the extractor I found that I had to increase the tension a bit.
 
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