1911 Disconnector question

That would be okay, but if you were to remove too much your 1911 will go full auto. But it is possible that the part could be too long.

Really, I'd be more inclined to just replace it. They're not expensive.
 
How does it compare dimensionally to the one it replaces? Do you suspect the part or the frame of being out of tolerance?

If the part is new, and doesn't work, return it.
 
Its a little longer than the original. Its hard for me to say which might be out of spec. The gun is a Rock Island Armory, government model. Everything else I've put in has required a little fitting, but has worked for the most part.
 
Most custom parts require some hand fitting so they can be made to work in any gun. I'd contact Brown to confirm this is true of the top of their extractor. If so, remove the minimum.

Just curious, why replace the stock one with such a nice part in your inexpensive 1911? Disconnectors either work, or don't. They don't affect trigger pull or reliability. And if you get this new one in there wrong, it will affect reliability. It just seems like the last part I'd bother replacing on a 1911, if it's working.
 
The reasons for the replacement are twofold... 1) to upgrade questionable parts to something with a better reputation to ensure against possible breakage in the future; and 2) because I wanted to tinker. :)

What I may try is putting the original disconnect back in and see if it will work with the new sear. I'm in the process of upgrading all of the internals and figuring out what works and what doesn't - and what I'm capable of and what I'm not.

I appreciate your help, Handy! :)
 
I have found ,at times ,the groove in the bottom of the slide not machined deep enough so that adds to the problem.
 
Brainfart

mpthole...Whoops! I just went and looked at that thread and saw the error of my ways. Meant to say..Don't file the top to LOWER the top of the disconnect. Sorry. Not enough coffee down my neck before I post sometimes
does that.

Anyway...Filing the top of the disconnect is generally a no-no. If the slide doesn't push it down far enough to get out from under the sear, the sear won't reset and the hammer will follow. If it catches right on the edge, the hammer can jar off...and you have the full auto experience.

if you've got a disconnect that's sitting so high in the frame that it's causing
return to battery problems, you may have one that's too long...or there's a problem with the sear pin location in the frame that's causing it to reset too
high...hard to say without seeing the gun.

Just a rough check, mind you...but disassemble the gun down to the sear and disconnect. The disconnect should fall so that the bottom of the "paddle" is
close to flush with the bottom of the trigger stirrup. This will vary according to the dimensions if the paddle itself, and to how much up and down slop is in the trigger...but it's a pretty good eyeball check to see if there's a spec issue in the frame.

I'll go see ifI can edit that goof...

Luck!
 
1911 trigger disconnector

Dear Sir:
When you take that disconnector out just LIGHTLY smooth the top (do not change angle) with a 3M wheel. I see that alot.
 
Disconnectors DO effect trigger pull and creep. The hardcore part is not a problem. I do not use them as I like the CMC that is no longer available because of the liitle donut at the top which is a great aid in fitting it so it doesn't flop around. Before, I use to have to take a punch and close up the hole, and now it looks like the past will serve us well in the future. The middle leg of the sear spring controls the tension on the trigger stirrup and the disconnector so I think you should have left well enough alone. EAGLES LAW: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
 
The SV disconnector has a donut at the top. For better or worse, it is also somewhat skeletonized, compared to G.I. I have about 4000 rounds on one in a Colt, and it works great.
 
One other thing we do is to scrape out the disconnector notch if the slide to raise it up a little. We have a special tool for that.
 
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