i've got a ballaster molina dated to 1942-44 that is a great shooter just took my tex. ccl with it and shot a perfect score. it's pretty rough most of the blueing is gone and was thinking of refinishing. should i go with bluing, durocoat, or parkerizing it. or should i just leave i live in coastal tex and the moisture is rough on unprotected gun's, have to constantly oil it to keep the suface rust off. let me hear what you think. it is a 65+ yr. old gun, but shoot's to good to retire.
1911 ballister molina 45acp what to do?
- Thread starter snarley
- Start date
Harry Bonar
New member
Ballesters
Sir;
I've fooled with several Ballesters, installed new Bar-Sto barrels and matted and bordered the slide and frames and milled them for Novak lo-mount sights. I really like the diconnecter set-up on them better than the Colt series.
Bluing can be a hastle - but I use G-96 cold blue creme abnd it really does a long lasting job.
They are a good pistol and were used by the British special forces during WWII I've read.
No, they weren't made from steel from the German battleship Graf Spree but were made with British steel. I like them - keep it, if your barrel is bad a new 1911 barrel and bushing will work.
Harry B.
Sir;
I've fooled with several Ballesters, installed new Bar-Sto barrels and matted and bordered the slide and frames and milled them for Novak lo-mount sights. I really like the diconnecter set-up on them better than the Colt series.
Bluing can be a hastle - but I use G-96 cold blue creme abnd it really does a long lasting job.
They are a good pistol and were used by the British special forces during WWII I've read.
No, they weren't made from steel from the German battleship Graf Spree but were made with British steel. I like them - keep it, if your barrel is bad a new 1911 barrel and bushing will work.
Harry B.
Bill DeShivs
New member
I would have it hard chromed.
I also have a Ballester Molina which is missing a good deal of finish...No rust, just lots of patina. I like it just the way it is. A no nonsense fighting handgun which has been around doing it's job for a long time, still shoots perfectly with whatever I load in it, and is pretty accurate.
I wouldn't change a thing.
I wouldn't change a thing.
DWARREN123
New member
Check out some other coatings/finishes on line. There are some out there now days that are extremely good.
The safety setup on the B-M is better than on the 1911 also. The safety cams the hammer back off the sear so there is less strain on the sear and hammer and a blow on the hammer won't damage the sear or hammer notch.
Just FWIW, while the barrel and some slide parts for the 1911 will fit the B-M, no frame parts will; the lock work is different.
Jim
Just FWIW, while the barrel and some slide parts for the 1911 will fit the B-M, no frame parts will; the lock work is different.
Jim
Harry Bonar
New member
ballester
Sir;
Missed thst, Jim - I agree!
Buy the way, I have made tooling to go down the mouth of the barrel bushing opening on 1911s in 9MM or 40 S&Ws to fit 45ACP! Busted the cutter on the first try but when to a multi cutter carbide and works like a charm.
Harry B.
Sir;
Missed thst, Jim - I agree!
Buy the way, I have made tooling to go down the mouth of the barrel bushing opening on 1911s in 9MM or 40 S&Ws to fit 45ACP! Busted the cutter on the first try but when to a multi cutter carbide and works like a charm.
Harry B.