1911 A Magnum research 1911C any tips or pointers and thoughts.

J

Joe.G

New member
Hi, I have wanted a 1911 for the last 25 years, I was supposed to get a custom one by a local gun smith but he passed before I got it. 2 Weeks ago a buddy and I were in a large gun shop and he bought a MR 1911C last 1911 they had. Well 2 days ago I was in my buddies shop picking up my Beretta semi 12 Ga I had ordered and ask him to keep an eye out for a 1911 for me and he called me a few hrs later and said he got one for me ( My buddy paid $815 I payed $625 ).

My questions are is there anything that should be checked? Are the triggers adjustable? How often and how far should they be taken down for a cleaning? ( I clean my guns every time I shoot Just wondering if there is a basic cleaning and then a more involved cleaning )

ANy tips would be great thanks.
 
I've owned the full size Desert Eagle 1911G model for 10 or 12 years. It's a pretty early model. I bought it soon after Magnum Research began to sell them. That said, the gun has been stellar. It's easily the equal in quality to my Colts, Kimbers and Springfields, and maybe then some.

I believe that the trigger has an overtravel adjustment, but that is the extent of it, which is what I'd expect for a gun in that class. Aside from that, the out of the box trigger pull is likely the best of the nine 1911's that I have in my safe. There is no firing pin stop, i.e., "series 80" or plunger in the gun, which might help with that. Accuracy is also top notch, as is the fit and finish of the gun.

My cleaning routine is waiting until I have anywhere from 500 to 700 rounds through the gun, as I shoot them from my safe in rotation over the course of a month or so. I don't see the point in cleaning after every range trip, or after shooting only 100 rounds or so, unless the gun is going to be put away that soon for a long time. But, when I'm finished and ready to move on to the next one, I detail strip and clean every nook and cranny. After that many rounds, they need it. There is powder and soot everywhere. When I'm finished, though, they sparkle brighter than new, and I love that. I realize that a lot of folks don't like to take things that far, so a lot of them will never do anything other than a basic field strip, which is OK if that's what they're comfortable with. :)

I continue to believe that the Magnum Research 1911's are likely the least well known and best overall quality for a mid class, production 1911 on the market. Just take good care of the gun and give it normal maintenance. You should be well pleased with yours, as I have with mine.
 
The trigger appears to have an adjustable over-travel limit screw. IMHO that is best left untouched. It is NOT adjustable for trigger pull weight -- it only controls how far the trigger can travel after the sear has tripped. Personally, I don't like over-travel screws and I remove them from any of my 1911s if they have them.

Pretty much everything you'll want or need to know about 1911s can be found here: https://www.m1911.org/m1911dt.htm

Cleaning (from the technical issues are of the above site:
https://cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml

https://www.m1911.org/maintain.htm
 
Thank you for the links I will read them, and I agree that the MR 1911 is great pistol everything to me just feels right, I have shot and handled quite a few different 1911 but this is the first that i own along with the Kimber I just picked up.
 
I have twice run my fitted SA 1911 to failure with sooty 200-grain lubricated cast bullets over 4.8 grains of Bullseye, and it didn't stop until 2700 rounds one time and stopped on about 3200 rounds the other time. The stoppage was simply a failure of the slide to go 100% into battery. By the time that happens you can see silvery-black streaks of graphite on the grip frame where it was blown out from under the grip panels; the locking lugs are jammed full of heavy black carbon that looks like dried black grease cake. It's in the ways and packed into the front ends of the slideways. Everything is filthy and you can't handle the gun without your hands getting smudged up. But it was designed to run with mud from a trench in it, and it certainly seems to accomplish that goal.

The gun would run longer using jacketed bullets and something that burns a little cleaner, like Universal (no graphite), not to mention the lack of bullet lube spraying into an embedded mixture with the graphite. But if you can refit them, the barrels last indefinitely with cast or swaged bullets, where jacketed rounds can put some throat wear in by 25,000 or so; not to mention that anything else that was fitted has been jarred a bit loose by then so the gun needs refitting to maintain match accuracy, if that's what you want.
 
Look up Bill Wilson on youtube. He is the owner of Wilson combat and has some good videos that will answer all the questions you just asked and many more

Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk
 
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