Got a navy here that broke a hammer hand. replaced it but it wouldn't cock. I replaced triggerbolt spring and sear and still would not cock. Just hammer hand spinning cylinder. Figured since trigger was wobbly, I replaced it. No go. Finally I took hammer out of good one and set it in--no cigar. The trigger and hammer are not catching. Is the frame too wide---? but screws go threw it. What's wrong here?
1861 navy that will not cock
- Thread starter Hardy
- Start date
The new hand replacement may need adjustment to obtain the proper angle when it contacts the rear of the cylinder. I replaced a broken hand on my ASM 1851 Navy and I could not cock the hammer until I slowly shaped the new hand to provide the proper throw onto the rear of the cylinder.
Tripe + 1
I would compare the shape of the new hand with the old if you still have it. In my limited experience I find that new hands are too long. The extra length stops the hammer from moving back far enough to catch the full cock detent.
If that comparison does not show you the problem, you might also want to take the hammer out. Put the old hand back on the hammer and then put the new hand on the hammer and make some comparisons in this way too. For example, "Does the new hand move on the hammer as freely as the old hand?" "Does the new hand fit into the hammer as easily as the old hand?"
I would compare the shape of the new hand with the old if you still have it. In my limited experience I find that new hands are too long. The extra length stops the hammer from moving back far enough to catch the full cock detent.
If that comparison does not show you the problem, you might also want to take the hammer out. Put the old hand back on the hammer and then put the new hand on the hammer and make some comparisons in this way too. For example, "Does the new hand move on the hammer as freely as the old hand?" "Does the new hand fit into the hammer as easily as the old hand?"
madcratebuilder
New member
Need more info, by won't cock do you mean when you pull back on the hammer the cylinder does not turn, like it's locked up? If that is your problem then the hand is to long and trying to turn the cylinder before the bolt has dropped. When you start the hammer back, the first thing that happens is the bolt drops, then the hand starts to turn the cylinder.
DocHoy hit it on the head. The problem is the new hand is too long and is catching the top radius of the cylinder ratchet well in the frame before the hammer makes it to full cock. The way to fit a new hand is to start tith the cylinder in the gun and shorten the hand by taking metal off the top flat untill just as you feel the hand start to contact the tooth of the ratchet the bolt has cleared the cylinder. Next try to bring it to full cock. If your hand does not have a boss around the pin that goes into the hammer you should be good to go if it does or the hammer still misses full cock yhou may need to radius the top left edge of the flat looking at the hand from the rear and possibly relieve the back of the flat as it is contacting the upper edge of the radius in the ratchet well.
An easy way to see this is with the cylinder out look at the hand in the ratchet well slowley cock the revolver at the same time with a pen or something hold back on the hand so that the tip only protrudes a little less than 1/8 in. When the hammer stops you can see where the hand is contacting the radius of the well and know where you have to remove some metal. This is generally only a few thousandths of an in.
An easy way to see this is with the cylinder out look at the hand in the ratchet well slowley cock the revolver at the same time with a pen or something hold back on the hand so that the tip only protrudes a little less than 1/8 in. When the hammer stops you can see where the hand is contacting the radius of the well and know where you have to remove some metal. This is generally only a few thousandths of an in.
Fingers McGee
New member
What Doc Hoy, MCB, tripe and denster said. Hand is too long which prevents hammer from going back far enough for the trigger to engage the full cock notch.
FM
FM
Wow! Thanks guys. I should have been more specific. Anyway, the hammer hand is the same with a new spring stamped in it. What the problem is: when assembling all new parts-the hammer pulls back as if there are no guts in the gun. The cylinder rotates and hammer hand assembly seems fine but nothing is catching. It's as if the trigger is not set to the hammer. It wobbles. I tried everything but the trigger will not set tight into hammer cogs. I took it to a gunsmith friend today and he looked at it and said:" Billy, I can't find anything wrong but the fact that the hammer will not catch trigger . The bolt won't move etc. He smiled and said bring the rest of the screws to put it together. I said, it doesn't matter because it should manuver springs (trigger bolt & Sear) without all that. I do know that. But anyway the diagnosis is the trigger is not catching or seated into hammer.
It's funny how a cowboy gun can get hard. Even with all new parts!
It's funny how a cowboy gun can get hard. Even with all new parts!I assume an 1861's lockworks is similar to an 1851. From the pic below you see:
(1) Hammer
(2) Trigger
(3) Hand
(4) Bolt
(5) Trigger/Bolt Spring
(6) Mainspring
Are you meaning to say that the top of the trigger is not long enough to engage the hammer?...or the top of the trigger will not touch/rest on the hammer's notch? Make sure there is enough tension on the trigger portion of the trigger/bolt spring and MAKE SURE that leg of the spring IS engaging the trigger. Sometimes the arm on the trigger portion of the spring isn't long enough.
(1) Hammer
(2) Trigger
(3) Hand
(4) Bolt
(5) Trigger/Bolt Spring
(6) Mainspring
Are you meaning to say that the top of the trigger is not long enough to engage the hammer?...or the top of the trigger will not touch/rest on the hammer's notch? Make sure there is enough tension on the trigger portion of the trigger/bolt spring and MAKE SURE that leg of the spring IS engaging the trigger. Sometimes the arm on the trigger portion of the spring isn't long enough.
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thanks. I could not get any tension. After examining another navy, the trigger is tight. We cannot get the trigger in this one to engage. The old one or the new one. Even took hammer out of good one but didnot work. Interchanged springs=didn't work. ALL parts are new. Guess I'll go tommorrow and see what the ole pro did. Probably somethin simple and will cost me. And yes, I've messed with too long hammer hands that will not rotate cylinder without honing and sear springs worn too short that won't fit trigger. But this has got me mad
Maybe I'll start playing golf again
I was decent at that.
Hey I do have an 1860 Army 3rd gen Colt with spare cylinder for 675 umm
Maybe I'll start playing golf again I was decent at that.Hey I do have an 1860 Army 3rd gen Colt with spare cylinder for 675 umm
Some additional thoughts
Take the barrel off and use hand pressure to hold the cylinder against the recoil shield as you operate the pistol. This will sometimes tell you something additional about the operation of the pistol.
Set the pistol to half cock and watch for the bolt to drop. If the bolt doesn't drop, spread the legs on the bolt. I suspect the bolt is dropping. The bolt should come back out at full cock. To me, the pistol is acting like this is not happening. This too will lead you to either the legs on the bolt or the spring tencion on the bolt or the freedom of the bolt to pivot on the screw.
Does the hammer cock with the cylinder out of the pistol? (I suspect not)
Does the trigger and the bolt have tension? (I suspect they do.)
Take the barrel off and use hand pressure to hold the cylinder against the recoil shield as you operate the pistol. This will sometimes tell you something additional about the operation of the pistol.
Set the pistol to half cock and watch for the bolt to drop. If the bolt doesn't drop, spread the legs on the bolt. I suspect the bolt is dropping. The bolt should come back out at full cock. To me, the pistol is acting like this is not happening. This too will lead you to either the legs on the bolt or the spring tencion on the bolt or the freedom of the bolt to pivot on the screw.
Does the hammer cock with the cylinder out of the pistol? (I suspect not)
Does the trigger and the bolt have tension? (I suspect they do.)
Doc, if you push the trigger foward as if using your right index finger and pushing it toward the front you feel some tension and a small feel of it engaging for cocks in the hammer, but let off it just dangles. The hammer pulls back with no cocks or engaging the trigger only pushing the hammer hand to rotate cylinder. I've enterchanged springs, spread the trigger bolt legs etc. For some reason the trigger is loose and dangles as if it was hanging in there with nothin to grab to. I'm really embarrased
But I'll find out tommorow hopefully what is wrong and post the problem. Something tells me that the frame might have warped. But it is a steel. Anyway stay tuned and thanks. You know these uberties are getting harder to get. The 1861 navy appears to be in demand. A lot of uberties are on back order and Italy closes in August. The 51 navys are still getable as of now PEACE
But I'll find out tommorow hopefully what is wrong and post the problem. Something tells me that the frame might have warped. But it is a steel. Anyway stay tuned and thanks. You know these uberties are getting harder to get. The 1861 navy appears to be in demand. A lot of uberties are on back order and Italy closes in August. The 51 navys are still getable as of now PEACEAgain, I would say that either the arm for the trigger side of the trigger/bolt spring is either too short to engage/touch the trigger or there isn't enough tension/springiness in that side of the trigger/bolt spring.
Is the arm for the trigger on the trigger/bolt spring pushing on the trigger or not?
Is the arm for the trigger on the trigger/bolt spring pushing on the trigger or not?
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OK. If there is no spring tension on the trigger the bolt/trigger spring is likely the culprit. It's almost impossible to install upside down but I suppose you could do it. Anyway try this remembering that the long leg goes to the trigger and the short leg goes over the bolt. With the hammer down hold the trigger forward against the hammer and lay the spring in place with the tip to the trigger side on the flat of the trigger that holds it then start the screw and tighten it down making sure the spring does not come off that flat and go under it which results in no tension on the trigger.
From your previous post it sounded like you had replaced the hand and you didn't mention no spring tension on the trigger. Makes it hard to diagnose the problem when you leave out details like that.
From your previous post it sounded like you had replaced the hand and you didn't mention no spring tension on the trigger. Makes it hard to diagnose the problem when you leave out details like that.
Also possible.....
....that the trigger bolt spring was installed with the spring not engaging the trigger. It is an easy thing to do and for someone not looking for it, it is a hard thing to spot. Take the trigger guard off and make sure the very end of the spring is sitting on the "bench" or "flat" of the trigger and not under it. If it is installed correctly the trigger will have good tension. If not, the trigger will have no tension.
When you install the spring the end of the spring naturally wants to go under the bench. This is wrong. You have to make sure that you hold the trigger all the way forward as the spring is installed.
I am calling it a "bench" because I don't know what it is really called. It is the flat area on the front of the trigger with a ninety degree angle cut into the trigger. It will be easy to see when you are looking for it. Just look at the end of the trigger bolt spring where it points to the trigger. It will be very obvious if the spring is not properly engaging the trigger.
I am personally thrilled that you posted this question. It gave me an excuse to:
1) handle my pistols
2) think about the way they work.
....that the trigger bolt spring was installed with the spring not engaging the trigger. It is an easy thing to do and for someone not looking for it, it is a hard thing to spot. Take the trigger guard off and make sure the very end of the spring is sitting on the "bench" or "flat" of the trigger and not under it. If it is installed correctly the trigger will have good tension. If not, the trigger will have no tension.
When you install the spring the end of the spring naturally wants to go under the bench. This is wrong. You have to make sure that you hold the trigger all the way forward as the spring is installed.
I am calling it a "bench" because I don't know what it is really called. It is the flat area on the front of the trigger with a ninety degree angle cut into the trigger. It will be easy to see when you are looking for it. Just look at the end of the trigger bolt spring where it points to the trigger. It will be very obvious if the spring is not properly engaging the trigger.
I am personally thrilled that you posted this question. It gave me an excuse to:
1) handle my pistols
2) think about the way they work.
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Thanks everyone here trying to help me and possibly others that have trouble w/internal parts not working. I got my gun back this mornin with a $10.00 fee Do you want to guess or should I tell you now. It cocks absolutely sweet! OK -all the springs were set right but the trigger bolt screw did not thread all the way down to hold the sear tight enough. I bought that screw and remembering when installing it something didn't feel right. I shouda just stopped there but you know you can't think of everything. Anyway that $.75 cent screw was the culprit. By the way, I have a 3'rd gen colt that bluin has worn off much of right side of barrel. Is it worth sending back to factory or someone--or just leave it alone?
Do you want to guess or should I tell you now. It cocks absolutely sweet! OK -all the springs were set right but the trigger bolt screw did not thread all the way down to hold the sear tight enough. I bought that screw and remembering when installing it something didn't feel right. I shouda just stopped there but you know you can't think of everything. Anyway that $.75 cent screw was the culprit. By the way, I have a 3'rd gen colt that bluin has worn off much of right side of barrel. Is it worth sending back to factory or someone--or just leave it alone?madcratebuilder
New member
I would leave it. The 3rd gens, depending on the model have not appreciated like the 2nd gens. Being a refinish would not increase the value, I would just shoot it, let the blue continue to wear and it well look like an oldie some day.
madcrater-I took a scotch pad lightly to it, then degreased it with alcohol and applied two applications at 5 min intervals of G96 gun cream blue. Washed off and polished with a bunch of straigt ballestol. Every 20 minutes I have soaked and polished. So far so good but got to keep appling oil. It looks good and blended perfect with the original bluin. I recommend this stuff as a must for your gunsmith shelves.
Also, the screw that didn't thread right was (just to clarify) not the bolt screw that fits on side of frame along with trigger and hammer screws but the small screw that holds the sear or flat trigger spring. Seriously it only threaded down just over 1/2 way where I didn't notice but kept it just not able to work.
Also, the screw that didn't thread right was (just to clarify) not the bolt screw that fits on side of frame along with trigger and hammer screws but the small screw that holds the sear or flat trigger spring. Seriously it only threaded down just over 1/2 way where I didn't notice but kept it just not able to work.