1860 Army Disassembly/Asssembly Guide?

Vinagre

New member
Good evening,

Can anyone point me towards of a reference that provides detailed guidance and the associated steps for going beyond the usual field stripping of the 1860 Army Colt? Something online would be ideal but something in print would do as well. My job has me overseas for 4-6 months at a time and I want to be able to break my 1860 down and clean/lube it up to the max prior to putting it in layup status while away. While the parts breakdown may make the action seem simple, I don't want to hang a right at third base because I jumped in cold. Any assistance would be most appreciated and thanks in advance.

:) :)
 
the basics are the same as other post-1850 colt types
link here.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=137102


attachment.php
 
Thanks again to both of you for the replies, most appreciated

mec,

One additional question please, on my gun, the Screw for the Trigger Bolt Spring only goes half way into the base of the frame assembly, is that normal? Without the spring it is flush with the other side of the hole but getting it to take a good bite (for the lack of a better phrase) is tricky when the spring is under it as designed.



Regards...........
 
Normal, I believe. I just whipped the cylinder out of my 61 navy and the screw is pretty far down in the hole. Sometimes the spring poses a bit of trouble on disassembly as it seems to be too short to reach both the step on the front of the trigger and the screw hole. Fairly tedious but what works is to position it right then hold a good bit of pressure on the spring so as to take the "bow" out of it with the effect of stretching it longer. The you have to take your other hand {tricky since you only have two and are using both} and worry the screw into the threaded hole.
 
I just wanted to add that putting the mainspring back on the frame can be either hard or easy, so let me tell you how.

Put the main sprin on last, then the handle. The put the mainspring on you have it tilted to the side so that the end is out in mid air. Start the screw that holds it to brass frame in a bit, but not tight. Then push the spring blade down and turn it under the hammer's roller. Now tighten the mainspring down to the frame and put the wood handle grip over it.
 
Follow-up on the Screw for the Trigger Bolt Spring:

I ordered a couple extras as my original one stripped out. The new one goes almost all the way through the hole when holding the spring in place while the original one only made it about half way. With the new (longer) screw, getting it started with the spring is very easy now.

Another question if I may; are the threads metric in the Uberti replica's? I ask as I was able to use a metric tap easily to clean out the screw's hole prior to replacing the stripped one (it seemed to match up well with a metric gauge that I checked it with). The new screw however went in "snug" so still not sure on the thread sizes and standard here. Please advise and thanks again....

PS: Still no more misfires, further proof that certain caps work better than others.
 
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