This is my first cap and ball revolver. I just got it today. I realized when I took it out of the box that the front sight was off center by at least an 1/8. It seems the barrel should have been threaded deeper into the frame. Is this quality to be expected from a $200.00 reproduction or should I send it back for an exchange? Is it something I should try to correct on my own? Otherwise it seems to be good quality .
1858 Remington .44 from Cabellas
- Thread starter vicvic
- Start date
freedom475
New member
NO WAY..Send it back...Cabela's return policy is great... I have several of there Rem 58's and most (not all ) have been top-self... just send it back and they will send you another one... I have some that the Pietta's fit and finish is as good as possible.
My favorite is the one I sprung for a little extra $ and got the checkered grips
My favorite is the one I sprung for a little extra $ and got the checkered grips
CajunPowder
Moderator
In order to obtain my first Black Powder revolver, an 1858 Pietta blued steel target model, ($219.00 on sale), I went to two Cabelas and went through their entire stock and got a really, really nice target model.
Upon returning home, I noticed the front sight was defectively cast, the shoulders were uneven and the sight leaned a hair to the right. I also noticed the flats of the barrel where they meet the frame receiver were a hair off and the barrel was indeed ever so slightly underturned. With an octagonal barrel, the front side must be mounted on a barrel that is well set or the sight will lean.
The combination of the underturned barrel AND the defectively cast front sight caused it to laser bore sight almost 2 feet to the left at 25 yards.
I was REALLY disappointed because the thing locked up like a bank vault and everything about it except for the sight was awesome.
So I sent it back, intent on returning as many of them as I wanted until I found a good one. I wrote a very succinct letter explaining the problem and made sure that they understood I was schooled in these revolvers.
The sent me an absolutely awesome exchange, no questions asked, and even did the "sorry, hope you like this one" ...
So I got a really, really good one. They exist, they really do.
ANY of these revolvers from the factory will need some timing adjustments, but you can shoot them how they come out of the box and they will perform well without attention from a gunsmith. With as little as $75.00 worth of gunsmith work from a smith who is competent and familiar with these arms, you can take one like I got and end up with shockingly accurate, reliable and lasting revolver.
I started my "quest" for an Uberti 1858 in Stainless and sent 3 of them back as I shopped different companies. Finally, I decided to physically go to the Cabelas and inspect all of their stock and get the best one I could find.
I did that, and like I said, after I got home, I sent it back because the barrel, if it isn't on straight, it can be a major issue. Removing the barrel and re-setting it is almost as expensive as the arm, and it might be defective and not even work, but the gunsmith might still charge you.
SEND IT BACK, write a letter as to what is wrong with it and tell them in the email that you know of many people who have gotten good ones and you want to be one of those people.
PATIENCE and DILIGENCE will pay off.
The most important thing I learned from the membership of this fantastic message board and forum is that there is NO SUBSTITUTE for handling the piece in person.
I've developed a checklist in Excel, a spreadsheet that assigns values to the different issues I look at on an 1858 and calculates a score based on that.
The one I finally got rates about a 9.3, which is a dream revolver ... NIB, or "New In The Box", but I worked hard for that. She's a beauty and after Jay Strite finishes working on it it's going to be an awesome example of this model.
Cabelas, I believe, is completely comfortable with customers like yourself, myself and the members of this board community acting as "Quality Control", and won't bat an eye at sending you an exchange.
The next time I order one, I'm going to order 2, or maybe 3 at a time and pick the best one. If I get 2 great ones, I'll keep 2.
If I got 3 really nice ones ... I would not be able to send any back, I'd keep all 3. Then I'd have the original group of friends and range buddies who got together with me on the original quest ... at my mercy.
Upon returning home, I noticed the front sight was defectively cast, the shoulders were uneven and the sight leaned a hair to the right. I also noticed the flats of the barrel where they meet the frame receiver were a hair off and the barrel was indeed ever so slightly underturned. With an octagonal barrel, the front side must be mounted on a barrel that is well set or the sight will lean.
The combination of the underturned barrel AND the defectively cast front sight caused it to laser bore sight almost 2 feet to the left at 25 yards.
I was REALLY disappointed because the thing locked up like a bank vault and everything about it except for the sight was awesome.
So I sent it back, intent on returning as many of them as I wanted until I found a good one. I wrote a very succinct letter explaining the problem and made sure that they understood I was schooled in these revolvers.
The sent me an absolutely awesome exchange, no questions asked, and even did the "sorry, hope you like this one" ...
So I got a really, really good one. They exist, they really do.
ANY of these revolvers from the factory will need some timing adjustments, but you can shoot them how they come out of the box and they will perform well without attention from a gunsmith. With as little as $75.00 worth of gunsmith work from a smith who is competent and familiar with these arms, you can take one like I got and end up with shockingly accurate, reliable and lasting revolver.
I started my "quest" for an Uberti 1858 in Stainless and sent 3 of them back as I shopped different companies. Finally, I decided to physically go to the Cabelas and inspect all of their stock and get the best one I could find.
I did that, and like I said, after I got home, I sent it back because the barrel, if it isn't on straight, it can be a major issue. Removing the barrel and re-setting it is almost as expensive as the arm, and it might be defective and not even work, but the gunsmith might still charge you.
SEND IT BACK, write a letter as to what is wrong with it and tell them in the email that you know of many people who have gotten good ones and you want to be one of those people.
PATIENCE and DILIGENCE will pay off.
The most important thing I learned from the membership of this fantastic message board and forum is that there is NO SUBSTITUTE for handling the piece in person.
I've developed a checklist in Excel, a spreadsheet that assigns values to the different issues I look at on an 1858 and calculates a score based on that.
The one I finally got rates about a 9.3, which is a dream revolver ... NIB, or "New In The Box", but I worked hard for that. She's a beauty and after Jay Strite finishes working on it it's going to be an awesome example of this model.
Cabelas, I believe, is completely comfortable with customers like yourself, myself and the members of this board community acting as "Quality Control", and won't bat an eye at sending you an exchange.
The next time I order one, I'm going to order 2, or maybe 3 at a time and pick the best one. If I get 2 great ones, I'll keep 2.
If I got 3 really nice ones ... I would not be able to send any back, I'd keep all 3. Then I'd have the original group of friends and range buddies who got together with me on the original quest ... at my mercy.
FUN!
I never had a problem with mine. It was sighted in just right. I bought the starting kit with it.
The powder measure that came with it caused me to wonder though. When I filled it to a certain designation line after measuring with an electronic scale found it to be 5 grains under. Also, do you tap it to settle the grains first, then level it off? I have heard somewhere that BP is measured by volume not weight however. None of these questions are addressed in any instruction manual received with it.
Any comments would be gratefully considered. Thanks
I never had a problem with mine. It was sighted in just right. I bought the starting kit with it.
The powder measure that came with it caused me to wonder though. When I filled it to a certain designation line after measuring with an electronic scale found it to be 5 grains under. Also, do you tap it to settle the grains first, then level it off? I have heard somewhere that BP is measured by volume not weight however. None of these questions are addressed in any instruction manual received with it.
Any comments would be gratefully considered. Thanks
Devolver said:
ffg vs. fffg; different brands of powder have different size granulations and densities; because of the air space between grains of powder it may become necessary to tap the measure and then to top it off in order to reach the maximum volume of space available to meet the calibration in ffg.
In practice, those of us who don't tap the measure to settle the powder might just eyeball heaping an extra little bit of powder over the top of the brim to compensate as a "fudge factor".
A few grains either way doesn't usually make much of a difference and adding a little extra allows for some spillage when dropping the powder into a revolver chamber or rifle bore. And that's even though some of us pour through a funnel when dropping powder.
It's pretty well understood that powder will settle easier & more readily compact with the help of gravity after it's poured down a long drop [loading] tube which most folks don't use in the field if ever at all.
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Rifleman1776
New member
Tapping to settle the powder in a revolver chamber will not make a noticable difference and does not present any safety issues.
However, if you are doing serious target competition, when pouring into a measure you should never tap to settle powder. This would be an iffy proposition to settle consistently. But, just pouring the same way each time will give you consistent shooting results.
BTW, I find it interesting there is so much interest here in shooting the repro revolvers. I wonder why when interest in shooting traditional muzzle loading rifles has almost dwindled to an ecentric few folks like myself and the plastic stocked inlines are dominating. Interesting.
However, if you are doing serious target competition, when pouring into a measure you should never tap to settle powder. This would be an iffy proposition to settle consistently. But, just pouring the same way each time will give you consistent shooting results.
BTW, I find it interesting there is so much interest here in shooting the repro revolvers. I wonder why when interest in shooting traditional muzzle loading rifles has almost dwindled to an ecentric few folks like myself and the plastic stocked inlines are dominating. Interesting.
bedbugbilly
New member
vicvic - get back with Cabelas - they'll make it right. I bought what they call a '58 Remington Navy in .36. It is about as perfect as it gets - great fit, great finish - a good shooter. They are pretty good on customer service and you want to have a pistol that is good in all respects - otherwise - like all of us and it's just a natural reaction - you'll probably have an "attitude" towards it which will take away from the fun and enjoyment you'll get out of it. . . . and there is no reason to put up with those flaws. It may take a little time to get it straightened out and get a new replacement, but it will be worth it. Good luck and good shooting!
OK...
So, “arcticap” says to tap the measure for ffg, and “Rifleman1776"says to never tap to settle the powder? I’ll have to decide myself, I guess.
Also I like to take pre-measured units of powder to the range with me. I do this using a 3/8" wooden dowel and wrap a cigarette paper inside out around it. That way I can cut off the excess paper. Twisting the ends works just fine, but not too tight. I never have a problem, the cap blasts right through to the powder. No muss, no fuss.
So, “arcticap” says to tap the measure for ffg, and “Rifleman1776"says to never tap to settle the powder? I’ll have to decide myself, I guess.
Also I like to take pre-measured units of powder to the range with me. I do this using a 3/8" wooden dowel and wrap a cigarette paper inside out around it. That way I can cut off the excess paper. Twisting the ends works just fine, but not too tight. I never have a problem, the cap blasts right through to the powder. No muss, no fuss.
Rifleman1776
New member
My "no tap to settle" suggestion really is only applicable to serious target competition. Tap/no tap really won't make a difference for casual shooting or hunting.
But, if you bench rest your rifle and are hunting X's you will see a difference. Once you dial in a ball/patch/charge combination that will find those X's any change in procedure will start tossing flyers. Nines and tens won't win a serious competition.
You wanna tap? Go ahead, I won't tell......but yer targets will.
But, if you bench rest your rifle and are hunting X's you will see a difference. Once you dial in a ball/patch/charge combination that will find those X's any change in procedure will start tossing flyers. Nines and tens won't win a serious competition.
You wanna tap? Go ahead, I won't tell......but yer targets will.
The same thing happened with my mail-order Cabelas Pietta '58 some years ago, had to return it -- replacement better, but not perfect. My neighbor got one during the last sale, same problem and more. If there's a next time, I'll inspect the gun at a Cabelas store instead of buying on-line.vicvic said: