#11 Magnum Primers

S

shortstop14

Inactive
New to BP shooting and have experienced several 'misfires' using CCI #11 primers.....sometimes as many as 5 on the same load! Removed nipple and put the pick to it. No luck. Eventually removed screw, added a pinch of powder to get rifle to fire. Read somewhere that Magnum primers may solve/cure problem. Any truth to this?
 
You've got something else going on if standard primers won't set off a main charge. It sounds like the caps are firing but the main charge isn't. I have no problems with standard primers firing Pyrodex. What powder are you using? What rifle are you using?
 
Sounds like you have some dud caps. Have you noticed if the primer is inside the cap? CCI's aren't the best caps. Also, what kind of muzzleloader are you using them on?
 
yep what Hawg said.
Are you using an inline or sidelock guessing sidelock
Are you using real Black powder or a substitute.
Important are you using pellets?
Pellets can be difficult to ignite in a sidelock, because the spark comes in from the side, rather the bottom.
Many rifles use a patent breech, where the chamber is quite a bit smaller than the bore.
In some cases the pellet will not set far enough down so the spark can ignite it.

Also after cleaning are you lubing the bore, the chamber, the flash channel, nipple?
If so you need to thoroughly clean it all out before loading.
many articles and people recommend firing a couple caps before loading to clean the lube out.
To me this is wasteful. Just clean it with some lube cutting solution and dry with patches. Rubbing Alcohol is good for this.
Make sure the nipple and flash channel is completely clean.

another thing most people fail to do as it is rarely mentioned in articles anymore.
After pouring the bulk powder charge down the bore, gently tap the butt of the rifle to settle the charge in the chamber. Also helps to tilt / turn the rifle side ways so the flash channel is turned downward, so powder is dribbled into the channel helping to ensure a better ignition.

One last thing look at how the hammer contacts the nipple, does it come down flat and square on the nipple and all the way.
 
CCI's aren't the best caps.
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I very strongly disagree with that. I have more problems with Remington caps and missing compound. He did say it fired after dribbling powder into I assume the clean out so it's not dud caps.
 
Thanks for y'alls replies. Here's the dope:
CVA Panther .54
90gr Triple7 ffg powder over PRB.
The problem is that the misfires are intermittent. Some days no misfire at all. Sometimes on the 1st load of the day. It is pesky while practicing. Should it happen while lined up on a nice buck......well, I hate to say.
 
PS: I clean after shooting w/hot soapy water, rinse w/hot water, air dry. After drying, I use a Bore Butter patch to lube the barrel but dry patch clean the barrel before shooting(4-5 patches).
If I'm doing something/anything/everything wrong please let me know.
 
BP substitutes vary in sensitivity. I mostly use Pyrodex, and it lights regularly. I couldn't light off my Gallagher with 2f Elephant. Pyrodex P does light. The granularity has an effect on ignite-ability no doubt, besides which Pyrodex is made out of BP.. I have a pound of Black MZ to try next. It is claimed to light easier. That Gallagher is the acid test. If it doesn't light, it really is about as useful as an iron bar! YMMV
 
You may not be getting all the bore butter out of the flash channel. Pop a cap before you load up. Some do that to clear the flash channel out prior to loading anyway. Also, when you run the dry patch down the barrel with a jag, piston that sucker down with some authority to blow out the nipple and flash channel (have hammer at half cock).
 
You may not be getting all the bore butter out of the flash channel.
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This! You're just pushing Bore Butter into the firing channel. I use BB too but I pop a cap and then pour a loose charge down the barrel and set it off before loading.
 
PS: I clean after shooting w/hot soapy water, rinse w/hot water, air dry. After drying, I use a Bore Butter patch to lube the barrel but dry patch clean the barrel before shooting(4-5 patches).
If I'm doing something/anything/everything wrong please let me know.
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Almost guaranteed you have BB residue in the flash channel.
No need to use BB after cleaning.
A dry patch with one or two drops of gun oil, 3 in 1 oil,or sewing machine oil
is plenty. all you need is a very fine film coating the bore.
As I mentioned earlier, no need to waste a cap.
pull the clean out screw if yours has one and /or the nipple swab out the channel with alcohol with a pipe cleaner. I do this after cleaning anyway,
Have never had a rust issue in 35 or so years.
When I go to shoot, I dry swab the bore 1 time, load and shoot.
I have several times, just loaded and shot.
Trick is, my bore and flash channel are NOT drenched in lube after cleaning.
 
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Pyrodex is BP with a moderator. Many of the others are citrus based. Black mz is one of those. It advertises low corrosion with improved ignitability. I don't usually see corrosion with Pyrodex, but it still makes me wince when I do. I clean with windex, hot water, and and Ballistol. I only put BB on the cone threads. I know it's not authentic, but compressed air is your friend if you have a long s-shaped fire channel. Pipe cleaners are probably anachronistic as well.
 
Look beyond you promers.

You've got something else going on
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Agree and to try and pin it down, is going to take some changes. I read at least three "possible" reasons why you are having problems. It sounds like you existing primers are igniting but you are having too many Mis-Fires. I suspect you are also seeing some Hang-fires. I don't feel that going to a magnum primer is going to resolve the basic problems. I have never had ignition problems with CCI primers of any other brand. The most common problems is getting a firm fit. I'm also assuming that you are shooting a SideLock as these problems are more common to then. I too suspect a problems in your flash channel. Might also want to limit you use of Bore-Butter as a little can go a long way. ..... :rolleyes:

Be Safe !!!
 
Pyrodex is bp with the potassium nitrate replaced with potassium perchlorate.
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And some sodium nitrate as well. It has two oxidizers. Another site says T7 is the same as pyrodex but without the sulfur.

I make a powder with just pine 2x4 (or willow if I can get it) charcoal and potassium nitrate. Makes a very good shotgun powder for muzzleloader or shotshells, but is dirty as hell. Fouling from my homemade is a bit less hygroscopic than black powder fowling, but still has the salts from the potassium nitrate and will rust things, just a bit slower.
 
Nothing better for reliably than just plain old Black powder. Keep in mind. B/P is the powder all substitute's >try< to measure up too. "Hillary would call it the Gold Standard."_:D

I would suggest before your loading procedure. (with a prior washed & dried barrel) Fire 2 or 3 caps in a safe direction to clear your rifles nipple snail & firing channel of any residue or moisture. Doing this procedure before loading or just after a barrels swabbing. Will help too ensure proper ignition.

CCI #11-Mag caps are very reliable. Although RWS brand #11s are a tad better than all of em. My opinion of RWS >The Mercedes of B/P percussion caps._;)
 
I don't have a BP rifle (yet), but has anyone tried one of those squeezable rubber bulb solder-suckers or something similar, to clear the flash channel and save caps?

Perhaps that would help clear bore butter or water and you could do that inside in Winter, without attracting a "what was that" from the kitchen patrol.
 
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Dry patched jag. Forceful push down the barrel. Blows crap out of the flash channel and nipple. Not complicated. Works on inline also. Wet patch followed by dry patch with force, between shots. .;)
 
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