10mm Ammo

B

Bran Diezel

Moderator
Discuss all my options! ha! I would like to know:

What is a good high power plinking load?

What double tap ammo should I try for hunting and balls to walls nuclear hot shooting?

I am going to reload, so what recipes are your favorites?

Also, does anyone sell 10mm brass reasonable? I looked on Cheaper than Dirt and WOW! It is expensive.

I am going to buy a .40 conversion barrel if I can ever find one in stock and load some 165gr because I get all the 40 brass I want for free. I am probably needing to go 200+ on 10mm handloads...You tell me.


Oh, and I am shooting a G20C. Will I need a different barrel to shoot reloads accurately?
:confused:
 
Bran, the 10mm is a great cartridge and capable of a wide performance envelope. Handloading is the best way to get the most out of it. A few words of caution are in order though. The 10mm operates at pressures in excess of 37,000psi, so any hot loads will require that you work up to them carefully and that you understand what to look for in the way of pressure signs. Also keep in mind that factory guns are often set up for typically available factory loads. This may require that you us a heavier recoil spring than stock in your gun if you want to feed it a steady diet of heavy loads. I cant speak from experience on the Glock 20, but in my 1911 10mm guns, I run 22lb springs.

As far as loads, the 10mm can drive 200 grain bullets to velocities exceeding 1300fps, and I, as well as others have loaded to this level. However, if you are not an experienced handloader, I would strongly encourage you to invest in several manuals and gain some experience before pushing loads to this level. Accurate Arms #9 and Blue Dot are both good powders for high performance loads, but start light and work up slowly. Use the EXACT components listed in the manuals, not just similar components. If the manual calls for specific cases, bullets, primers, etc. DO NOT vary from this without working from the starting loads.

Cast bulets can indeed be safely shot in the stock Glock barrels, but they must be HARDCAST bullets. If you are unsure of what this means, you have more research to do yet. Cast bullets come in a wide variety, and a single post cannot even scratch the surface of that topic.

The phrasing of your posts suggests that you may be somewhat new to shooting and reloading. If this is the case, go slow! Don't push for "Nuclear" right away. Because of the high pressures and relatively small case capacity of the 10mm, pressures can spike quickly with small adjustments in loads. Be patient in developing your loads and you will love the 10mm. Push too hard without sufficient experience, and you may regret it.

JW
 
I had a Glock 20 when they first came out several years ago in 10mm. I liked the gun a lot, but it did not like my reloads. I am sure that most of the problem was with me and my reloads. A buddy and I both took our 10's to the range one night. His was a Delta Elite. I would routinely get failures to feed and he would take the same rounds and had no problems at all. I have thought of getting another 10, but haven't yet. I gave my daughter the choice between my Glock and a used S&W 357 as a wedding present. She took the Glock and has had no problems, but she shoots only factory loads though.
Since you are going to reload, like has been mentioned go slow and work up your loads. Take your time and don't be worried about asking questions. I have been reloading for over 7 years and still ask my buddy lots of questions about reloading. He has forgotten more than I will know.
Sorry for the long rambles of an old man.


Shoot Safe and Often
 
Stay away from Double Tap unless you like throwing your money away. What they claim their velocities are, and what they actually do, are miles apart.

If you want REAL 10mm ammo, look up Underwood Ammunition. I've chrono'd several of his offerings, and it meets their claims from a stock Glock 20 (non-ported model). With my Storm Lake 5.3 inch barrel, add 50fps for his 180gr offerings.

Starline brass is the way to go. I pay around $17 or $18 per 100 pieces.

Since you're planning on reloading, skip buying any ammo, and load your own, to your specs...but be careful. I'd recomend getting a non-ported barrel, even if it's a stock glock barrel.

Using a aftermarket barrel makes getting high velocity easier, and slightly safer. My 200gr load goes 1275 fps out of my SL barrel, 180gr goes 1340, and 155gr goes 1440. I could likely push them a bit faster if I wanted, with the SL barrel, but I wanted loads that were safe in the stock barrel as well. I'd be willing to bet those velocities will be impossible to achieve with the stock ported barrel.
 
high power/ plinking ammo

Those two expressions do not go hand in hand for me.

Here is what I do for 10mm. My "utiity load" (read plinking if you want) is a fairly sedate 8.0 grs of Unique and anybody's 180 gr FMJ slug. That easily exceeds .40 S&W power, yet does not push boundaries in pressure or safety. I can mix cases, slugs, etc in bulk reloading and not worry about trouble. Typically I load the FMJ slugs as they turn up a tad cheaper from most sources.

For full house loads, I use 2400 and a JHP. I can differentiate between the two by a glance at the slug type. FMJ-utility, JHP full power.

I think the last bunch of brass I bought was Starline. If anything, 10mm brass seems more available than it was just a few years ago.
 
@TRaGiK

Thanks for the info on Underwood Ammo. Been disappointed with my 10mm ammo ever since I learned how poorly Double-Tap really performed compared to its claims (still better than 90% of the ammo out there, but not at all what I was lead to believe). Looks like Underwood performs as claimed, a toasty 650-700 ft/lbs, and the prices are 20-50% lower than Double-Tap. 100% win, and I just ordered my first 250 rounds to try it out for myself.
 
I go to AA7 for full power loads. Any decent reloading book will set you up. For Nuclear, 800x is my powder of choice. For 40short and weak power levels, I go for unique.

Reload my friend if you shoot 10mm!
 
"Why would you need a high power plinkng load? "

because I can shoot 40s all day for plinking, but when I want my hand to hurt and practice up on some follow up shots with something more substancial. that and well, you want to feel a 10mm or you would just stay with a 40.
 
I'm using 13.7 gr of AA9 under a 180gr XTP loaded to 1.260 with CCI 300s. I'm using a Glock 20 with a 22# spring and Lone Wolf "tactical" barrel (ie threaded for a compensator). I'm using starline brass.

This is slightly above Accurate's max but below Hornady's. I developed this load with the stock spring. Using the stock spring, above 13.9, the gun clearly unlocks too early. My powder drop does +/- 0.1 with AA9, so using 13.7, I'm comfortable I won't stray into too hot.

I'm going to try Longshot when it warms up. I really like the result with 9x25 Dillon. With the G20, you are conversion barrel and dies away from that cartridge.
 
a G20 was my first pistol and is the reason I got into reloading. Currently working through 8# of Longshot. I've never acquired a chrony (its on the list...) but I worked up some 200gr beartooth bullets with new brass for hiking in Yellowstone. Definately an attention getter with heavy/hot rounds and Im interested to see what they clock out at. I did put 22# springs in it as well. Funny, just realized I have owned that gun for just over 20yrs, still love it.
 
OPer

because I can shoot 40s all day for plinking, but when I want my hand to hurt and practice up on some follow up shots with something more substancial. that and well, you want to feel a 10mm or you would just stay with a 40.
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OK, all's fair.
 
As for the Glock barrel, I've used bullets cast from wheelweights for years and they're hard enough I've never had a smidgeon of lead fouling. I use Lee liquid alox lube. I haven't tried my cast bullets over 1000 fps, so maybe they would lead at higher velocities? I doubt it.

The 40 barrel is a great idea. I used it for USPSA matches. I used to go nuts chasing my 10mm brass until I started using 40.

BTW, don't forget they make a 357 Sig and a 9X25 barrel for the Glock 20.
 
For those reporting disappointing velocities with Double Tap or any other supposedly full-power ammo including Buffalo Bore, Grizzly, Underwood, Swamp Fox, Winchester Silvertip, Cor-Bon, or Norma, I would be interested to know what gun you shooting the ammo from and what weight recoil spring you're using. The reason I'm curious about this is because of the following from Buffalo Bore:

If you are firing this 10mm ammo from an autoloader and experience high extreme spreads in velocity, it is not the ammo. Here is why and how to remedy the situation.

Full power 10mm ammo has always generated enough recoil and pressure to require a pretty stiff recoil spring in your handgun - this of course depends on several variables such as your slide weight, etc. When the cartridge fires, it generates enough pressure/recoil to prematurely open your breech face in some guns. When this happens, the opening breech face has an effect on the burn rate of the powder. This can result in some fairly high extreme spreads in velocity. If you are experiencing extreme velocity spreads of more than 50 fps, simply install a stiffer recoil spring. For example, I have an original Colt Delta Elite. This gun with the factory spring runs extreme spreads of about 35fps with both of these 10mm loads. I am happy with 35 fps, so I leave the Delta Elite as is. I also have a custom built Para Ordinance with a Nowlin barrel. It runs extreme spreads of about 70 fps with its original recoil spring. When I install a spring that is 4 lbs stiffer, the extreme spread drops to about 35 fps. The new Glock model 20 comes with a recoil spring that allows the breech face to open too soon and my new Glock model 20 will get extreme spreads of about 100fps with the factory spring installed. When I go to a stiffer recoil spring, the extreme spreads drop to about 50 fps in my new Glock model 20. Of course none of this will be an issue in a revolver. None of this will be an issue in real life either, as these high extreme spreads don't hurt accuracy or function. However, I mention this because if you are like me and want things to be as correct as possible, I have outlined the problem and the solution. The industry fixed all these problems initially, by watering down the 10mm ammo over the last several years. The watered down 10mm ammo does not generate the pressure/recoil to open the breech face early. If you want the full powered 10mm ammo we make, you simply need to tweak your pistol. Or just realize that you are getting some fairly high extreme spreads and ignore it or live with it. It's not hurting any thing in reality.
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http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=114

I don't own a chronograph (seems like there's always something else demanding my time, money, and attention), so I can't test this myself. However, I can't help but wonder if the velocity issues reported with Double Tap and others (it seems there are several 10mm loadings which don't live up to their advertised velocities) is due at least in part to pistols which are slightly undersprung by the manufacturers to ensure reliability with the watered-down FBI-spec 10mm ammo.
 
The recoil spring theory is a load of crap. I've tested it.

I tested 7 or 8 different brands and handloads of ammo, using my stock Glock 20, with both the stock 17 pound spring, and a 20 pound spring.

It made NO difference.
 
The recoil spring theory is a load of crap. I've tested it.

I tested 7 or 8 different brands and handloads of ammo, using my stock Glock 20, with both the stock 17 pound spring, and a 20 pound spring.

It made NO difference.
Click to expand...

What loadings, specifically, did you test and what were your velocity results?
 
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