Greetings all. I have a Ruger deluxe 1022. It has been driving me nuts. It is the only firearm that I have ever had that will not expend one ten round (thanks Bill) mag without stovepiping at least twice. I clean her after every outing, and have tried different magazines. I guess I should have checked this closely sooner, but today I broke her down and put my glasses on. The extrator seems to have broken a very small piece off the edge, and there appeared to be a small burr. I smoothed it off, and it seems to still grip the rim just fine. But now I'm thinking of just going ahead and replacing it. Any suggestions?
1022 problems...
- Thread starter Gung-Ho
- Start date
cntryboy1289
New member
go ahead and replace it
I would go ahead and replace it. The extractor has to do one job, that is hold the round up against the bolt face. If you have been having as many stovepipes as you say you have, I would think the extractor is in need of replacement. Look at www.staffordsales.com and e-gunparts.com
Now, if you are mechanically inclined and have a narrow diamond needle file or narrow stone, I would suggest getting the stock extractor and working on it to make it more reliable. If not, then I would suggest the exact edge extractor. I wouldn't waste the money for any of the new extractor tools if you don't plan to work on guns for a living.
I would place the bolt in a one gallon plastic bag to remove the extractor. Use a small punch to help push back the spring and retainer, then roll the extractor rearward to pull it out. The reason for the bag is if you happen to let go of the spring and retainer, it will fly out and might never be found. To put in the new, drop the spring and retainer back in their slot, use the punch to slide them back and push the punch into the recess to hold them back. Then slide in the extractor. Good luck with the project, let me know if you need any help.
I would go ahead and replace it. The extractor has to do one job, that is hold the round up against the bolt face. If you have been having as many stovepipes as you say you have, I would think the extractor is in need of replacement. Look at www.staffordsales.com and e-gunparts.com
Now, if you are mechanically inclined and have a narrow diamond needle file or narrow stone, I would suggest getting the stock extractor and working on it to make it more reliable. If not, then I would suggest the exact edge extractor. I wouldn't waste the money for any of the new extractor tools if you don't plan to work on guns for a living.
I would place the bolt in a one gallon plastic bag to remove the extractor. Use a small punch to help push back the spring and retainer, then roll the extractor rearward to pull it out. The reason for the bag is if you happen to let go of the spring and retainer, it will fly out and might never be found. To put in the new, drop the spring and retainer back in their slot, use the punch to slide them back and push the punch into the recess to hold them back. Then slide in the extractor. Good luck with the project, let me know if you need any help.
Mine will do the same but just a few times out of 100 rounds.But have never seemed to be able to make it stop.I used one of those soft bolt stops and made it worse than ever.Am on my third set of extractors and it still keeps doing it.Have taked with guys that have set them back to Ruger and they come back the same way.Have changed parts with my other two 10-22 and makes no different they all do it.I read where if you bend over the extractor a little they work not on my gun. And this is on a 10-22Target.The thing is it can be a pain in the a-- 
SO anybody got any ideas/??????? I would like to hear them myself.
SO anybody got any ideas/??????? I would like to hear them myself.Death from Afar
New member
I have never struck this before. Have you tried using the Ruger with no oil at all ? I know purists will shriek, but that can also improve relaibility with those fine little rifles.
cntryboy1289
New member
I use very little oil
I try to keep my gun as clean as possible. I do use a little moly and break free on the hammer and sear engagement surfaces and I add just a little on the top and side surface of the bolt. I put it on the bolt and then wipe it off leaving just a light coating. I have had folks bring their rifles to me and I do a reliability job on their extractor. I chamfer the leading edge and make sure the engagement angles are positive. I also headspacce the bolt to .043" which helps as well. I would also suggest that you look at the magazines and make sure they are tensioned properly as well. I unscrew the allen head screw and then rotate the hex head end atleast 4 turns and then retighten. Make sure not to let go of the hex head or it will unwind the spring. I always make sure to chamfer the case mouth as well using a knife blade. It should be scraped around the chamber mouth like you are trying to slice off a piece of the metal. This usaully solves feeding problems. Let me know if you want any more info. I can give you directions on adding an extended mag release as well as making the bolt release work with one finger.
Most of the time Ruger gets a bad rep from folks having problems with stove piping, but it can be easily taken care of. Why they don't do it at the factory is beyond me though. Good luck with the rifle.
The bolt buffer shouldn't cause any feeding problems. I would look above to solve the fedding problem. I use bolt buffers and love them. For less than $10 for three of them, it is money very well spent.
I try to keep my gun as clean as possible. I do use a little moly and break free on the hammer and sear engagement surfaces and I add just a little on the top and side surface of the bolt. I put it on the bolt and then wipe it off leaving just a light coating. I have had folks bring their rifles to me and I do a reliability job on their extractor. I chamfer the leading edge and make sure the engagement angles are positive. I also headspacce the bolt to .043" which helps as well. I would also suggest that you look at the magazines and make sure they are tensioned properly as well. I unscrew the allen head screw and then rotate the hex head end atleast 4 turns and then retighten. Make sure not to let go of the hex head or it will unwind the spring. I always make sure to chamfer the case mouth as well using a knife blade. It should be scraped around the chamber mouth like you are trying to slice off a piece of the metal. This usaully solves feeding problems. Let me know if you want any more info. I can give you directions on adding an extended mag release as well as making the bolt release work with one finger.
Most of the time Ruger gets a bad rep from folks having problems with stove piping, but it can be easily taken care of. Why they don't do it at the factory is beyond me though. Good luck with the rifle.
The bolt buffer shouldn't cause any feeding problems. I would look above to solve the fedding problem. I use bolt buffers and love them. For less than $10 for three of them, it is money very well spent.
Have already installed the extended mag release and the bolt release love the bolt release.But great info will give it a try.As far as cleaning I disassemble the whole gun except trigger group and always make sure the bolt face is very clean you let junk get around the head it will make stove pipeing even worse 
cntryboy1289
New member
simple enough
Just follow the instructions I oringinally posted on how to remove it and remember to use a bag to do it in. BTW, what did you do to get it to improve?
Russ, I would definitely remove the trigger group and spray it down with some crud cleaner from time to time. You will be amazed how dirty it gets.
Just follow the instructions I oringinally posted on how to remove it and remember to use a bag to do it in. BTW, what did you do to get it to improve?
Russ, I would definitely remove the trigger group and spray it down with some crud cleaner from time to time. You will be amazed how dirty it gets.
cntryboy1289
New member
Might just be dirty
One thing to check is the front of the bolt for carbon build up. If it is dirty, then the extractor could be dirty as well or the chamber could be carboned up and needs to have a bore snake run throught it. The thing to remember is this, firing 200 rounds of 22lr through a rifle can and will leave carbon soot in the chamber as well as the bolt and internals. I am not saying that the rifle shouldn't be able to shoot this many rounds, but a bore snake ran through after a hundred rounds helps out with keeping the chamber clean. I carry a can of crud cleaner with me when I shoot. Now and then I spray the head of the bolt off with it to make sure to clean it up as well. You don't have to completely break the rifle down either. Just pull the bolt back and spray the front of it with the cleaner. The type I use will dissolve the carbon and it dries fast as well. Whenever I shoot my 22's, I let them dictate to me when they need cleaning. When they start to stovepipe, I clean them. No rifle will function flawlessly forever, you have to clean them.
One thing to check is the front of the bolt for carbon build up. If it is dirty, then the extractor could be dirty as well or the chamber could be carboned up and needs to have a bore snake run throught it. The thing to remember is this, firing 200 rounds of 22lr through a rifle can and will leave carbon soot in the chamber as well as the bolt and internals. I am not saying that the rifle shouldn't be able to shoot this many rounds, but a bore snake ran through after a hundred rounds helps out with keeping the chamber clean. I carry a can of crud cleaner with me when I shoot. Now and then I spray the head of the bolt off with it to make sure to clean it up as well. You don't have to completely break the rifle down either. Just pull the bolt back and spray the front of it with the cleaner. The type I use will dissolve the carbon and it dries fast as well. Whenever I shoot my 22's, I let them dictate to me when they need cleaning. When they start to stovepipe, I clean them. No rifle will function flawlessly forever, you have to clean them.
That gun is taken apart and cleaned every time I shoot it.Have had the boltout of them so many times can do it in my sleep. Have to say have had a lot of different guns in my time but never have had one that won't shoot a hundred rounds with out cleaning. Have an old Remington Semi auto .22 that hasn't missed a lick in hundreds of rounds.Guess I will get some spray and try that
cntryboy1289
New member
funny huh
I have a ruger that feeds no matter how dirty it gets and I have 2 that when the chamber gets fouled a little, they start stovepiping. What's the difference you ask, the one that feeds all the time is a normal, factory chambered barrel. It has more room for the round to fit in. The other 2 are bentz chambers and they are slightly narrower and tighter chambers and don't allow as much soot to develop before they get rather tight. This is the reason I use a bore snake to keep it clean after a few hundred rounds. I could keep on firing and deal with the stovepipe or two, but when it only takes a minute to run the snake through and keep on running why not do it? Heck, it's just like changing the oil in the car. Yes it will run for a long time without changing at 3000 miles, but it sure runs a lot better when you change it out.
I have a ruger that feeds no matter how dirty it gets and I have 2 that when the chamber gets fouled a little, they start stovepiping. What's the difference you ask, the one that feeds all the time is a normal, factory chambered barrel. It has more room for the round to fit in. The other 2 are bentz chambers and they are slightly narrower and tighter chambers and don't allow as much soot to develop before they get rather tight. This is the reason I use a bore snake to keep it clean after a few hundred rounds. I could keep on firing and deal with the stovepipe or two, but when it only takes a minute to run the snake through and keep on running why not do it? Heck, it's just like changing the oil in the car. Yes it will run for a long time without changing at 3000 miles, but it sure runs a lot better when you change it out.
Death from Afar
New member
All good points above, but have you tried changing your ammo. Rugers can be a bit fininky with ammo- several of mine would not feed truncated ammo for example, so maybe that might help. Another trick we used when nightshooting in the ld days ( when shooting 1000 rabbits a night) was to have a very very slight sheen of oil on your finegrtips when loading the magazine. That lubed the chamber and got more rounds from gummed rifles. ONLY use the tiniest amount of oil, every few mag, and you should notice a difference. I once obtained about 1000 rds of pre WW2 German solids, that we just decided to blast off. Youcouldnt fire 20 rds without a stoppage, but we used the oil on fingers trick which made a huge difference. Dont use too much.
Yesterday I took apart one of the Ruger clips tp see how they work. Did find out just how dirty they get inside.Going to have to find some way of cleaning with out taking them apart. After a bit of frustration on how to get that %$#$ :barf: spring hooked back up and put that ^%@% 
tension back on so the clip would feed all was well 
tension back on so the clip would feed all was well cntryboy1289
New member
Lol
I can make a bit simpler for you, I use crud cleaner to spray inside the mag upside down so the liquid drains out. They don't need cleaning very often. When you take it apart, look at the hole where the tit goes into the frame to hold the spring. Slide it into the hole and then put the top on and then the side plate back own. I then put the nut on and spin it up a little. Then I use needle nose pliers to spin the nut around to tighten it up while holding the allen head wrench in the other side. Once I get the nut tight, I do four rotations on it and then push into place and finish with the wrench. I don't tighten more than about 10ft lbs. I find the mags feed better if they aren't bound up to tight.
I can make a bit simpler for you, I use crud cleaner to spray inside the mag upside down so the liquid drains out. They don't need cleaning very often. When you take it apart, look at the hole where the tit goes into the frame to hold the spring. Slide it into the hole and then put the top on and then the side plate back own. I then put the nut on and spin it up a little. Then I use needle nose pliers to spin the nut around to tighten it up while holding the allen head wrench in the other side. Once I get the nut tight, I do four rotations on it and then push into place and finish with the wrench. I don't tighten more than about 10ft lbs. I find the mags feed better if they aren't bound up to tight.