It's not that difficult to work over a 10/.22 trigger.
Get the stock off the rifle, then remove the trigger group from the action. Begin learning to disassemble and reassemble the trigger group. Remove just one part, then reassemble it. Then remove the first part and the next part. Practice this until you are confident. Then remove one more part, and reassemble it. Keep doing this, and keep going until you can disassemble and reassemble the entire trigger group. It is not that hard.
During the course of all this disassembly and reassembly, you will no doubt begin to understand how the mechanism works. Play with the trigger pull, but don't let the hammer go as hard as it can. Stop it with your fingers. You will see what is making it so undesirable as it comes from the factory. When you see where the notch in the hammer is way too beefy, you'll have zeroed in on the problem. Use a stone to remove small amounts of metal from the hammer, meanwhile reassembling the trigger for trials. This is how I have worked over 10/.22 triggers to eliminate creep.
Trigger pull can be reduced by clipping a spring in the trigger mechanism. It's been years since I have done this, and cannot conjure up the configuration in my mind, but you should be able to identify the spring as you learn how the mechanism works. Just don't clip more than 1-1/2 or 2 coils off this spring, and things should be okay.
Upon reassembly, be double-damn-sure that the safety still operates, and watch for the hammer falling as the safety is disengaged. Also make sure you can rough-handle the rifle cocked with the safety disengaged and that it remains cocked.
It will also help to make sure that the sear notch is well-lubricated with some really good grease. I use Tetra grease, but I know there are lots of good lubes out there thgat will do the job well.