10/22 target model accuracy

I couldnt notice any difference. If you are looking for a 22 rifle, concider the Marlin 795. More accurate than a 1022 IME. I think its a touch better in every way and its much cheaper. The only thing the 1022 has on the 795 is the huge aftermarket for accessories.
 
I have 3 10/22s all stock,my 10/22T was from the first year of production of the Target model to me it has a much better trigger of the three and a clear edge in the accuracy dept. over my 2 other 10/22 carbines which are both stainless.
This is just my experience with these 3 10/22s YMMV
 
Really not much.

How much more accurate is the 10/22 target model
There are minor differences, in accuracy and the Target model has a slight edge. The standard models always come in at the +6 lb. trigger pull and you might see 3lbs. on the target. Both are creepy and let-off is lousy. There are always trade-offs that you have to learn to live with. I'm not a 10/22 basher and in fact I'd buy another over most. ... :)

If you want serious performance then do as bedlamite has suggested. Again, how good is good enough??

Be Safe !!!
 
My target barrel was fairly accurate capable of 1/2" groups MOST of the time with good ammo. But I also had trigger work and bolt work done to it. A factory carbine model does leave a lot to be desired as a target rifle. The factory target triggers are far from great as far as pull weight and creep are concerned. But if you like to tinker and spend money to get it top shoot better then the 10/22's are great. No bashing of 10/22's. I have 2 of em' and love to tinker. A DSP 10/22 with a Green Mountain fluted sporter with some trigger work can be a real shooter. Another route would be to send the factory barrel to some the guys from Rimfire Central to recut the chamber and touch up the crown. Really makes a factory barrel shoot. Long story short, the target model may be a bit more accurate, but most guys I know buy the base model and start over with after market goodies.
 
Moreammo I am learning the hard way I think it would have been less expensive to go with the standard model and do the conversion. I really thought Ruger would put out a better product for the money being spent for their target model rifle. My sons all weather shoots as good if not better then my target model, and we have switched rifles as well just to make sure the old man wasn't the problem.
 
My 2008 Ruger-1022T sucked...an old 1913 Marlin model 37 outshot it regularly...
so the 1022T got traded off for a 1981 Yamaha XS400 Special that needed a new starter, battery, tires, chain, grips, & a carb job...
and I STILL ended up with the better end of that trade :D
 
Another vote for a marlin 795 over a stock 10/22 carbine. I picked up a 795 over the summer for $99 after rebate. I was shocked at just how accurate it was.

That being said, I own two 10/22's carbines that can shoot dime sized groups, but they have Volquartsen hammer and sear's (to drop the trigger pull to 2.5 lbs) Green Mountain barrels with match chambers, bolts that have been reworked by Randy at CPC and Boyds stocks that have been pillar bedded.
 
Thanks for all the info as always its very helpful. As I have said in the past I have 3 types of guns shooters/keepers/traders. This 10 22 has hit the trader market. I just can't have a $400 plus 22 that won't shoot better then a $200 one it will be gone soon for a new adventure:).
I think another 204 Ruger may be in line.
 
I do agree with starting with a carbine for a custom build,or fine tuning the stock carbine barrel for greater accuracy.

I must of bought a good stock 10/22T??
Here's a 10 shot group @ 50 yards with an all stock 10/22T...I pulled the shot at 6 o'clock out of the group my fault.

d1637fc1.jpg
 
Hang one to the older ones, boys & girls !!!

I really thought Ruger would put out a better product for the money being spent for their target model rifle.
In all fairness, these are still good and worth your time and money. Whether Ruger or Marlin, they all face competition and we can watch the regression of performance in all. .... ;)
I'm just glad that Ruger has given us a product that we can up-grade to our own personal tastes and wallet.

Recently performed some basic trigger work on an older 10/22 and was really surprised by the outcome. I attribute it more to it's age. Pull went down to 1.5lbs and smooth. It was a hunter so offered to put it back to original which the owner declined. ..... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
If you can grab a lightly used 10/22 carbine for a nice price sending it to Randy at CPC should yield great results. He did both of my bolts and I couldn't happier.

This info is from his website

Customer results at 50 yards: .25 to .56".

RUGER 10/22 FULL TUNE-UP LR, includes 3 items:


TRIGGER JOB
2.0 - 2.4 lb trigger pull
Trigger and hammer side shims
Trigger overtravel screw
Forward anti-creep/slack screw
Auto-bolt release conversion
Single stage pull reworked to be as crisp as possible
Oversize receiver pins installed to tighten trigger group
Extended magazine release installed

BARREL SETBACK & CROWN
CPC will accurize aftermarket barrels, bull or sporter. Examples - Clark, Midway, A&B, Butler Creek, Houge, Shilen, Ruger T, Green Mountain, Kimber, Whistle Pig, etc, (.22 L.R. or .17 HM2). Stainless or Blue
Ends of blued barrels are re-cold blued
Setback breech end by .187 to .250". Shorten chamber, recut barrel shank oversize to fit receiver hole perfectly
CPC semi-auto match freebore chamber reams until a Winchester Power Point, Eley, or CCI bullet lightly sticks. These are used as gauges since all .22 L.R.s will work except some longer .22 Hyper-velocity's.
Chamber polish
Recut extractor groove
Fit new spacer into barrel's lock cut
Cut new 11° recessed target crown
Stone slide area in receiver
Recut and square .920 dia. c'bore on receiver face

BOLT COMBO (see 10/22 Bolt Work for more details and pictures)
Bolt is totally disassembled, cleaned, deburred
Bolt face is surface ground and squared to .0425" LR rim headspace depth; same as bolt action rifle for accuracy and reduced flyers
Bolt side is beautifully prism jeweled
A hole is E.D.M.'ed and a stainless dowel pin pressed in over the front of the firing pin to hold it from raising up, reducing flyers and to get more consistent firing pin strikes.
 
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