10/22 Barrel Removal

R

restlessnomad

New member
I'm having a heck of a time trying to remove the barrel from my Ruger 10/22. I've read the manual and watched a couple of video tutorials, but this thing wont budge. This rifle has yet to be shot yet and has the original barrel installed. It's the shorter threaded barrel if that makes an difference.


Any ideas???

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
Perhaps stuck on paint ??

restlessnomad
I'm guessing that you have a new one that has the powder coat paint on it. If so, you might just be hanging up, on some paint. As far as the older ones and I guess the new, there should be noting to get hung up on, once you had removed the V-Block. On one of my target conversions, I had a problem fitting the new target barrel but that was a different situation. ... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
I've removed a few. Some slide right off, others needed a little help. After removing the screws hold the barrel with the receiver down. Tap lightly with a plastic or rubber hammer on the receiver. Be sure to place something padded under the receiver and only hold it a few inches above the floor, table, etc.

At least this worked for me.
 
Yeah..I gave it a multIple taps, then a blow with a orange hammer & winter cap in between.....also tried a vice...though I wouldn't recommend It.

Any thoughts on a soft punch on the receiver side of the barrel?
 
Pull the charging handle back and let it slam forward. Could take 20-50 times but it will push the barrel forward and loosen it up. Ive had a heck of a time getting barrels off of 10/22s and this always works for me.
 
also tried a vice...though I wouldn't recommend It.
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If you didn't enjoy it, is it a vice? :rolleyes:

Take the barreled action out of the wood, disassemble, then use a heat gun on the receiver. Don't hit it with a hammer, cast aluminum is brittle.
 
Fantastic !!

restlessnomad
That is great news and can you share with us what was making it hang up? Also, i personally would like to know it it's a newer older model?

Take care and;
Be Safe !!!
 
Thanks Pahoo! It's a new model. From what I can tell, both the barrel and the receiver were very dry. Not sure if it was meant to be like this, but I think I'll add a little oil in that area moving forward. Maybe it sat around a bit at my LGS?? Maybe I'm just not that strong!!

Anyone want a new takeoff barrel!!! :D

Thanks again!
 
Maybe I am just behind the power curve on this one but if you have a rifle that has not been shot, why did you want to take the barrel off?
 
We like to tinker

restlessnomad
You may not have to apply anything after this but if you do, consider a light film of choke tube lube as it's rated for a higher temp. By rights, you should not have had this much trouble in the first place. ..... ;)

why did you want to take the barrel off?
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Why should we ever want to pull a barrel on a 10/22? It's pretty obvious as we like to tinkler. Not so much now, but I use to pull and put them on quite often. .... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
Maybe I am just behind the power curve on this one but if you have a rifle that has not been shot, why did you want to take the barrel off?
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This barrel did not have iron sights. I don't really want to scope it right now, so I attached a carbine barrel.

You may not have to apply anything after this but if you do, consider a light film of choke tube lube as it's rated for a higher temp. By rights, you should not have had this much trouble in the first place. .....
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Thanks!
 
This barrel did not have iron sights. I don't really want to scope it right now, so I attached a carbine barrel.
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Good thing you 'splained this to me:) Otherwise, I would be thinking that you were carrying a pre range shoot with an over zealous "clean and lube.":D
 
Maybe I am just behind the power curve on this one but if you have a rifle that has not been shot, why did you want to take the barrel off?
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Let me give you one more reason for pulling the barrel on a 10/22. There was an episode on one of the TV shooting shows (there's a copy on Youtube) about a gun shop that specializes in accurizing 10/22s. According to them, the difference between a 10/22 that shoots 1-hole at 50 yds and one that doesn't group nearly as well can usually be attributed to only 2 different causes.

1. Bad crown
2. Too much bullet jump (distance from bullet tip to the start of rifling). Apparantly, 10/22s don't like to jump at all.

When they accurize a 10/22, they set back the barrel so that the bullet is almost kissing the rifling.
 
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Just about every match barrel I've used will not eject an unfired round due to the bullet being into the rifling. I have to use a tool to get it out after the line is called to cease fire. Almost every really good match barrel will do this.
 
Can you explain the advantage of putting the bullet further up in the barrel?
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Some rifles actually like what is called "bullet jump". That is, the tip of the bullet starts out some distance before the rifling starts. Other rifles do better when you minimize or eliminate that distance.

One of the problems with maintaining that magical distance is that different bullet brands/shapes/weights, etc. stick out different distances. That is one reason handloaders are always playing with OAL (over all length) to find that magic spot. With a rimfire cartridge, you don't have that ability to customize the cartridge OAL. Instead, you can customize the chamber to fit the cartridges you plan to shoot.
 
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